I use this, its ok at best, but does the trick, probably find it for less at princess auto:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...6224P/One-man+Brake+Bleeder+Kit.jsp?locale=en
the container is nice, saves brake fluid from going everywhere, but the magnet is pretty useless considering msot things are fiberglass or round on a bike, but with a longer hose you can find places to clip it on to. Couple things to note when bleeding brakes:
1.) use a clear tube and get all of the air out, look for very tiny bubbles
2.) IMO, don't use the dot 5.1 aka "racing" stuff, its silicone based and gives a spongy feel. Either use regular dot 4, or if your racing/doing track go to the motul 660 (tony @ bluestreak sells it for $30/qt).
3.) isopropyl alcohol ($2 at any drug store) cleans up brake fluid very well, don't let brake fluid get on/suck into your pads
4.) rough your pads with a bit of sandpaper/steel wool/somethign abrassive, clean your rotors with a green scratch pad/brake cleaner
5.) once finished, or before a track/race day, tape your lever fully engaged overnight, the lever pressure will help any trapped air bubbles to float up.
takes a few stops for the brakes to seat, but after that they should feel firm/grippy. This is what I do, I'm sure other people do it differently.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...6224P/One-man+Brake+Bleeder+Kit.jsp?locale=en
the container is nice, saves brake fluid from going everywhere, but the magnet is pretty useless considering msot things are fiberglass or round on a bike, but with a longer hose you can find places to clip it on to. Couple things to note when bleeding brakes:
1.) use a clear tube and get all of the air out, look for very tiny bubbles
2.) IMO, don't use the dot 5.1 aka "racing" stuff, its silicone based and gives a spongy feel. Either use regular dot 4, or if your racing/doing track go to the motul 660 (tony @ bluestreak sells it for $30/qt).
3.) isopropyl alcohol ($2 at any drug store) cleans up brake fluid very well, don't let brake fluid get on/suck into your pads
4.) rough your pads with a bit of sandpaper/steel wool/somethign abrassive, clean your rotors with a green scratch pad/brake cleaner
5.) once finished, or before a track/race day, tape your lever fully engaged overnight, the lever pressure will help any trapped air bubbles to float up.
takes a few stops for the brakes to seat, but after that they should feel firm/grippy. This is what I do, I'm sure other people do it differently.
BlueRider, sometimes with the MityVac, I find that you'll suck in air through the bleeder nipple threads. Plumbing tape can help.
I did use a borrowed MityVac and it was helpful, but I tended to use it combined with squeezing the levers and at low vac pressure (<10 lb).
I was able to make it a 1-man job by wrapping a bungee cable around the front brake lever.