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Text 750 - 2010 - Cold start
- Thread starter ZX600
- Start date
Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
air filter was very dirty, did an isc reset. Bike is running fine, lets wait for Monday when I leave the bike out in the cold all day.
update:
left the damn heated grips on all day and bike had no battery so I left it at work, got to go pick it up later *facepalm*
got to use a different power source that shuts off when I remove the key duhh
air filter was very dirty, did an isc reset. Bike is running fine, lets wait for Monday when I leave the bike out in the cold all day.
update:
left the damn heated grips on all day and bike had no battery so I left it at work, got to go pick it up later *facepalm*
got to use a different power source that shuts off when I remove the key duhh
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Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
how strong is your battery? I my old carbed bike used to kinda run ****** with an old battery. Not sure if it will translate on an EFI bike...
how strong is your battery? I my old carbed bike used to kinda run ****** with an old battery. Not sure if it will translate on an EFI bike...
Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
Check mark or question mark or NFG, every item in the following list
Spark plugs - ?
Ignition coils pass resistance check on primary and secondary sides - ?
Valve clearances - ?
Vacuum leaks - ?
TPS calibration - ?
ISC calibration if separate from the above - ?
Coolant temperature sensor calibration - check, gauge reading is plausible under all conditions, correct?
Intake air temperature sensor calibration - ? - you will have to check this with a meter
Air filter - Check (you fixed the dirty condition, right?)
Fault codes on MIL lamp - Check (no codes, right?)
Is there a lambda (oxygen) sensor on the stock exhaust system yes or no. If yes, is it still there and connected, yes or no. If there is one and it's connected, is it giving a correct signal? A bad O2 sensor will knock hell out of driveability. If it's a heated sensor (usually 4 wire) and the heater isn't working or the heater circuit is bad, the O2 sensor won't give a correct signal during warm-up.
Is the PAIR (air suction) system still connected as per standard equipment yes or no.
GSXR's for several years had a lot of trouble with the Secondary Throttle Actuator system built into the throttle bodies. Also, the wiring harness at the ECU on some years was flimsy. Friend of mine went through that, but his was throwing a ton of fault codes for everything under the sun.
Check mark or question mark or NFG, every item in the following list
Spark plugs - ?
Ignition coils pass resistance check on primary and secondary sides - ?
Valve clearances - ?
Vacuum leaks - ?
TPS calibration - ?
ISC calibration if separate from the above - ?
Coolant temperature sensor calibration - check, gauge reading is plausible under all conditions, correct?
Intake air temperature sensor calibration - ? - you will have to check this with a meter
Air filter - Check (you fixed the dirty condition, right?)
Fault codes on MIL lamp - Check (no codes, right?)
Is there a lambda (oxygen) sensor on the stock exhaust system yes or no. If yes, is it still there and connected, yes or no. If there is one and it's connected, is it giving a correct signal? A bad O2 sensor will knock hell out of driveability. If it's a heated sensor (usually 4 wire) and the heater isn't working or the heater circuit is bad, the O2 sensor won't give a correct signal during warm-up.
Is the PAIR (air suction) system still connected as per standard equipment yes or no.
GSXR's for several years had a lot of trouble with the Secondary Throttle Actuator system built into the throttle bodies. Also, the wiring harness at the ECU on some years was flimsy. Friend of mine went through that, but his was throwing a ton of fault codes for everything under the sun.
Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
I have to bring my tools to work and leave the bike out all day and then while the problem is happening open it up and see.
Battery is good, no problems in there. I honestly think the cold gets the TPS mechanism stuck.
I have to bring my tools to work and leave the bike out all day and then while the problem is happening open it up and see.
Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
this is my next step
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180878&highlight=herky+jerky+SET
by the way, today I got the FI code.
Going to make sure the _ before the c is not at the bottom, I have a feeling this is the issue. Its got to be the TPS adjustment, I didn't do it right this weekend
you definitely know what you are talking about, I have been reading a lot about how the pair system works and definitely I have a long list of things to continue to go over.
this is my next step
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180878&highlight=herky+jerky+SET
by the way, today I got the FI code.
Going to make sure the _ before the c is not at the bottom, I have a feeling this is the issue. Its got to be the TPS adjustment, I didn't do it right this weekend
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Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
Troubleshooting without a MIL code is a real pain, but once it starts tripping a code, now you can find out what the computer is not happy about.
The nuisance is that it has to have the MIL on at the time that you jumper the wires to get the code. If the MIL doesn't come on right away, you have to operate the bike until it displays the symptom and the MIL comes on, then check it right away without stopping the engine. It is a nuisance. The on-board diagnostics are a far cry from OBD-II. But having that code will save a ton of chasing around.
Troubleshooting without a MIL code is a real pain, but once it starts tripping a code, now you can find out what the computer is not happy about.
The nuisance is that it has to have the MIL on at the time that you jumper the wires to get the code. If the MIL doesn't come on right away, you have to operate the bike until it displays the symptom and the MIL comes on, then check it right away without stopping the engine. It is a nuisance. The on-board diagnostics are a far cry from OBD-II. But having that code will save a ton of chasing around.
Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
C40
ISC VALVE
the circuit voltage of the motor drive is unusual
Idle speed is lower than desired idle speed
Idle speed is higher than desired idle speed
There was a recall on the gsxr 07 1000, for the same damn problem.
not sure if this will help but the dash before the C was in the middle while in idle and went to the top of C while riding
as much as this is a pain in the ***, I am learning a lot
Two options to try
a) Adjusting the voltage of the position sensor?
b) Removing the set valve?
So the code I get is C40, I don't have the Pcode but better than nothing.
C40
ISC VALVE
the circuit voltage of the motor drive is unusual
Idle speed is lower than desired idle speed
Idle speed is higher than desired idle speed
There was a recall on the gsxr 07 1000, for the same damn problem.
not sure if this will help but the dash before the C was in the middle while in idle and went to the top of C while riding
as much as this is a pain in the ***, I am learning a lot
Two options to try
a) Adjusting the voltage of the position sensor?
b) Removing the set valve?
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Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
If I have Suzuki's terminology correct, the SET valve is the flapper gizmo in the exhaust system. The ISC valve is the Idle Speed Control valve, which is operated by a servo motor which is in the throttle body. They are two entirely different circuits and a fault code for one certainly doesn't indicate that the other system is at fault! So the SET valve won't have an effect on this.
The "voltage of the position sensor" is not adjustable. Normally these sensors operate on a common calibrated 5 volt DC signal supplied by the ECU and are referenced to sensor-ground which is wired back to the ECU and grounded internally (not to the chassis). The fault code that you gave, appears to indicate a fault in the ISC motor circuit itself, not the TPS (throttle position sensor).
I have a funny feeling that you have a bad ISC / secondary throttle actuator. It's not exactly uncommon, and there is a place in the USA that repairs the actuator module. I know that Pro 6 Cycle has dealt with them (when they were fixing my friend's bike).
The possibility exists that you have a wiring harness problem (e.g. a loose pin connector at the ECU or at the plug for the throttle body).
By the way, the chart of Suzuki FI codes that I found on the internet, doesn't give C40 as a possible code. Codes C28, C29, and C30 are the secondary throttle actuator buggers.
So the code I get is C40, I don't have the Pcode but better than nothing.
C40
ISC VALVE
the circuit voltage of the motor drive is unusual
Idle speed is lower than desired idle speed
Idle speed is higher than desired idle speed
There was a recall on the gsxr 07 1000, for the same damn problem.
not sure if this will help but the dash before the C was in the middle while in idle and went to the top of C while riding
as much as this is a pain in the ***, I am learning a lot
Two options to try
a) Adjusting the voltage of the position sensor?
b) Removing the set valve?
If I have Suzuki's terminology correct, the SET valve is the flapper gizmo in the exhaust system. The ISC valve is the Idle Speed Control valve, which is operated by a servo motor which is in the throttle body. They are two entirely different circuits and a fault code for one certainly doesn't indicate that the other system is at fault! So the SET valve won't have an effect on this.
The "voltage of the position sensor" is not adjustable. Normally these sensors operate on a common calibrated 5 volt DC signal supplied by the ECU and are referenced to sensor-ground which is wired back to the ECU and grounded internally (not to the chassis). The fault code that you gave, appears to indicate a fault in the ISC motor circuit itself, not the TPS (throttle position sensor).
I have a funny feeling that you have a bad ISC / secondary throttle actuator. It's not exactly uncommon, and there is a place in the USA that repairs the actuator module. I know that Pro 6 Cycle has dealt with them (when they were fixing my friend's bike).
The possibility exists that you have a wiring harness problem (e.g. a loose pin connector at the ECU or at the plug for the throttle body).
By the way, the chart of Suzuki FI codes that I found on the internet, doesn't give C40 as a possible code. Codes C28, C29, and C30 are the secondary throttle actuator buggers.
Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
The wiring harness is a possibility, that is the problem, there are many possibilities and it's hard to know until you start swapping parts around
I have't had any issues on the past 2 cold days, I also find that when the bike starts with the issue, I switch it to mode C and it works much better.
Was to busy to do anything over the weekend, for now it is working fine.
Yea the earlier model GSXRs didnt have the C40 code, but I found an updated one with the C40 code on it.
The wiring harness is a possibility, that is the problem, there are many possibilities and it's hard to know until you start swapping parts around
I have't had any issues on the past 2 cold days, I also find that when the bike starts with the issue, I switch it to mode C and it works much better.
Was to busy to do anything over the weekend, for now it is working fine.
Re: GSXR 750 - 2010 - Cold start
so I installed a power commander V with a map for a gsxr 750 2009 and problem fixed. Will never know exactly what the problem was but bike is running smooth like butter.
I had to take a part most of the FI system to get to the plugs in order to install the power commander (I have thick hands) and made realise a few things about Suzuki
Their desing of parts and the bike as a whole is very simple and I like that
hard to work on but not as bad as a Honda
The screws and basic hardware is crap, they really go cheap on the cheap stuff but the actual parts seem to be of ok quality.
The factory setup of suspension and fuel mapping is crap, this bike never ran well until today, but once I degree the new map, holly crap the low end power is amazing.
My ZX seemed to be of better build quality but the gsxr works well.
once I move to a litter bike I will probably go kawi again. Not putting down Suzuki, it just seems kawi just worked well no matter what.
so I installed a power commander V with a map for a gsxr 750 2009 and problem fixed. Will never know exactly what the problem was but bike is running smooth like butter.
I had to take a part most of the FI system to get to the plugs in order to install the power commander (I have thick hands) and made realise a few things about Suzuki
Their desing of parts and the bike as a whole is very simple and I like that
hard to work on but not as bad as a Honda
The screws and basic hardware is crap, they really go cheap on the cheap stuff but the actual parts seem to be of ok quality.
The factory setup of suspension and fuel mapping is crap, this bike never ran well until today, but once I degree the new map, holly crap the low end power is amazing.
My ZX seemed to be of better build quality but the gsxr works well.
once I move to a litter bike I will probably go kawi again. Not putting down Suzuki, it just seems kawi just worked well no matter what.
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