Testing flasher relay

That is your problem. The flasher relay requires a certain amount of current going through it in order for the relay to pull in and open the contacts (they flash by opening, closing, open, close, etc). Your LED signals draw so little current that - to the flasher relay - it looks like an open circuit. The relay that opens the circuit can't pull in because there isn't enough current through it for the relay to operate.

Do a search on "load resistors".

It is not that your signals all need to be the "same". It is that the total current demand from all the bulbs has to be the same (or close) as stock.
 
Brian P said:
That is your problem. The flasher relay requires a certain amount of current going through it in order for the relay to pull in and open the contacts (they flash by opening, closing, open, close, etc). Your LED signals draw so little current that - to the flasher relay - it looks like an open circuit. The relay that opens the circuit can't pull in because there isn't enough current through it for the relay to operate.

Do a search on "load resistors".

It is not that your signals all need to be the "same". It is that the total current demand from all the bulbs has to be the same (or close) as stock.
Click to expand...

He didn't say so explicitly, but my understanding is the LED lights worked fine up until they all of a sudden didn't. I don't think that's the problem.
 
No one ever provides ALL the information. We never get the WHOLE story. For all we know, the bike might have had load resistors installed (working), and then they burned out (not working).
 
fastar1 said:
He didn't say so explicitly, but my understanding is the LED lights worked fine up until they all of a sudden didn't. I don't think that's the problem.
Click to expand...

When the first signal snapped off, I borrowed one of the front signals for the rear. After some noob wiring, i caused a short and the relay burnt out. Now I'm down to 1 led signal and a bunch of yellow led strips.

I think I need a resistor.
 
Get a led flasher they are like 34 dollars for a Suzuki type one from Germany on ebay

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 
Brian P said:
That is your problem. The flasher relay requires a certain amount of current going through it in order for the relay to pull in and open the contacts (they flash by opening, closing, open, close, etc). Your LED signals draw so little current that - to the flasher relay - it looks like an open circuit. The relay that opens the circuit can't pull in because there isn't enough current through it for the relay to operate.

Do a search on "load resistors".

It is not that your signals all need to be the "same". It is that the total current demand from all the bulbs has to be the same (or close) as stock.
Click to expand...

This is true but you can't use a simple 1/4 or 1w resistor. you need more.. probably around 20-30 watt resistor. I've tested and played with regular non led flashers and 1-10w and they will burn out over time.

frekeyguy said:
its not going to get any easier than this to test the relay out.

Relays are simple, Connect them up to complete the circuit (per say) , then use the right pin to trigger the relay. Connect the on/off pin to the + to test to see if the electromagnetic switch and see if it is actually switching on/off.
Click to expand...

that diagram says it all. i agree

Scuba Steve said:
Get a led flasher they are like 34 dollars for a Suzuki type one from Germany on ebay

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

This is a cheap fix and will solve it.

If you don't want to get a led flasher or a resistor load, splice a bulb and that will be your ''load'', You can tuck it anywhere. This load/light will blink too, fyi.
 
Keep in mind that because this bike has the flasher built into a combination relay module, it ain't as simple as plugging in a different flasher relay ...
 
Brian P said:
No one ever provides ALL the information. We never get the WHOLE story. For all we know, the bike might have had load resistors installed (working), and then they burned out (not working).
Click to expand...

Quoted for truth. Non mechanical people don't give all the information because they simply do not understand the importance of the details. It is important when trying to get something fixed, or help with an issue to relate all of the information you have even if it seems trivial or unrelated.
 
Jimsun said:
This is true but you can't use a simple 1/4 or 1w resistor. you need more.. probably around 20-30 watt resistor. I've tested and played with regular non led flashers and 1-10w and they will burn out over time.



that diagram says it all. i agree



This is a cheap fix and will solve it.

If you don't want to get a led flasher or a resistor load, splice a bulb and that will be your ''load'', You can tuck it anywhere. This load/light will blink too, fyi.
Click to expand...
I went through a bit of a problem with a 250 ninja LED conversion this winter for a customer. I wired in the ballasts to get it to work and it didn't! My customer looked on the "Custom LED" website and they recommended their "electronic flasher relay", which isn't all that special but he ordered it anyway. When it showed up I plugged it in, same problem, lights on steady. This was a bit odd since I've never seen these fixes not work, so the customer Emailed "custom LED" where he bought his kit. Turns out that they said that the 250 Ninja has this issue because of its gauge bulbs that indicate which signal is on. I found it a bit strange and I read the Email that they had also sent. Sure enough they said the cure was to re-wire the guage indicator bulbs (can't remember exactly what they said) because the 250 Ninja was a particularly strange set up. As the winter went on, I did another bunch of mods to his bike and he shows up with a digital gauge package (has oil temp and coolant temp etc too! cool!) made by KOSO, I think. I installed the gauge package and all the new sensors, then I realized the signals might work now becuase the gauge lights were now LEDs also. I rigged up the LED signals and plugged in the "Custom LED" electronic flasher and everything worked properly, like what I had expected before........then, just for kicks, I wired it up with the ballast resistors that I tried in the first place and that also worked.
Seems the 250 Ninja really does have a strange set up for it's gauge signal indicator bulbs.
 
Also, if your bike has a single bulb on the instruments that comes on regardless of left or right turn and that is an incandescent bulb, converting to LED signals may wreak havoc depending on how that bulb is wired.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom