Pressurize the oil pump just in advance of the motor turning.
Not a bad idea at all, but your pump can't be the primary pump it would have to be electric and in addition to the mechanical pump.
and you are going to have to sell people on the extra cost.
yep
large diesel powered equipment has this this
pre-lube-----turn the key and an electric pump spins up
starter doesn't engage until oil pressure is up to spec
but here we're talking about $million plus engines
on a bike there is the expense plus the space of external equipment to deal with
when we hadn't run a tractor or combine or something in a long while we pull the plugs and put a squirt of oil in each cyl or the diesels got an injector unthreaded and a dose in there, then the next hr pull the coil wire and whirl it over a few times before actually firing the engine. I dont know if it made any difference but it made dad happy. Almost everything had straight 30 or 40W non detergent.
motorbikes got a couple kicks and when it would run off the choke away you went. I'm not that old, but the equipment was.
The last couple of race cars I've been involved with had pre oilers. A couple of solenoid valves and a tank. when there is power to the coil solenoid 1 opens and the tank gets pressure. Turn the car off the solenoid closes, trapping oil pressure in the tank. When you hit the starter, solenoid 2 opens and dumps pressure on the crank. Works great.
I'm cheap. I wire kill switch to the coil. Hold down the kill switch as the starter turns, till I see the oil pressure gauge move. Works great with a lot less work... oh yeah, I'm lazy too....
Rotella is not the best possible oil for a motorcycle. I use it because it is good enough and is usually much cheaper than "real" moto oil. If Suzuki synthetic is the same price somewhere, I would use that no question. Also, where is it that cheap so I can go get some
For 60$ you can get a kit from Suzuki Canada site that includes 4 cans of synthetic oil, oil pan gasket and the oil filter. Oil alone is 14$ per gallon.
For 60$ you can get a kit from Suzuki Canada site that includes 4 cans of synthetic oil, oil pan gasket and the oil filter. Oil alone is 14$ per gallon.
Others have posted a lot of interesting viewpoints and info that is useful and an "oil" thread always draws out many comments.
If you are curious to get the "numbers", I had used AGAT labs for the oil analysis and you can drop the samples off at their Mississauga office for (no charge) onward dispatch to Calgary (where the analysis is done).
I do not recall the exact cost (I would have, if it were expensive!)
Others have posted a lot of interesting viewpoints and info that is useful and an "oil" thread always draws out many comments.
If you are curious to get the "numbers", I had used AGAT labs for the oil analysis and you can drop the samples off at their Mississauga office for (no charge) onward dispatch to Calgary (where the analysis is done).
I do not recall the exact cost (I would have, if it were expensive!)
I can test it for you for free. I use a similar technique as the fellas on Moonshiners. Fill a pint mason jar, hold it up to the sun and shake. If there is no foam head or milky color you get a checkmark. If I can see light through the dark oil, another checkmark. If it's free of glitter, another checkmark. Three checkmarks and you're good.
I can test it for you for free. I use a similar technique as the fellas on Moonshiners. Fill a pint mason jar, hold it up to the sun and shake. If there is no foam head or milky color you get a checkmark. If I can see light through the dark oil, another checkmark. If it's free of glitter, another checkmark. Three checkmarks and you're good.
I can test it for you for free. I use a similar technique as the fellas on Moonshiners. Fill a pint mason jar, hold it up to the sun and shake. If there is no foam head or milky color you get a checkmark. If I can see light through the dark oil, another checkmark. If it's free of glitter, another checkmark. Three checkmarks and you're good.
1. Foamy/milky = coolant in the oil (blown head gasket... while that by itself is sometimes repairable, if there is enough coolant present to dilute the oil the engine is probably toast)
2. Dark oil = oil is no longer fresh, not necessarily bad
3. Glitter = metal on metal contact = your engine is definitely toast
A visual inspection of oil that has been changed on time should give you everything you need to know. I think TwistedKestrel got it, although the #2 (if you can't see thru) can also be a symptom of excessive blowby. I have never met a mechanic or engine builder that sends oil for analysis.
Yes, they are. If you want to get some synthetic oil from them, do it before December 4th.
I suggest Rotella T6, but I also use Motul.
If they have Motul on sale, buy it.
A visual inspection of oil that has been changed on time should give you everything you need to know. I think TwistedKestrel got it, although the #2 (if you can't see thru) can also be a symptom of excessive blowby. I have never met a mechanic or engine builder that sends oil for analysis.
As an aside, I had to send the oil from my car for analysis to a lab to get proof backed by actual numbers that there was an issue. It was then recognized and the dealer put in a manufacture-supplied update after this. I did try telling the dealer that there was an issue but their eye-ball inspection revealed no fault (or so they told me), hence my "trip" to the lab.
But you are correct, in most cases a visual inspection can and will indicate an issue without needing to send a sample for analysis.
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