Stuck rotor bolts | GTAMotorcycle.com

Stuck rotor bolts

sburns

Well-known member
GTAM help me solve my latest problem
(nothing is ever easy)

I went and bought a near rear brake rotor, as my grinding idea wasn't sound.
But now I am finding all the bolts are stuck.

They are Torx-45 (I hate these things). I believe originally with some loctite from dealer
I heard some heat will help this. I only have a butane torch for welding plumbing, enough?
Then using a breaker bar.
Or also using a impact driver. I saw a manual one from PA?

You got this!
 
Heat and a ratchet and it will be easy you will smell the locktite and see it burning when hot enough. Heat the hole not the bolt.

Sent using a thumb maybe 2
Do you believe the butane plumbing torch will be enough heat?
 
If it's hot enough to solder pipe it's enough to unfreeze bolts. You don't want to break or burn more stuff and create more work.
After heating, I put the socket in the bolt and give it a sharp rap or two with a hammer. Then put the breaker bar on it.
Remember, you can break almost any fastener on your bike with a breaker bar. Take your time. Patience and a systematic approach is better than brute force.

Sent from my Redmi 7A using Tapatalk
 
If it's hot enough to solder pipe it's enough to unfreeze bolts. You don't want to break or burn more stuff and create more work.
After heating, I put the socket in the bolt and give it a sharp rap or two with a hammer. Then put the breaker bar on it.
Remember, you can break almost any fastener on your bike with a breaker bar. Take your time. Patience and a systematic approach is better than brute force.

Sent from my Redmi 7A using Tapatalk
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense!
 
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense!
I would heat the bolt, not the caliper. Calipers are probably aluminum which is a much better heat conductor than the bolts, which are steel and not nearly as good at dissipating heat.

Heating the steel bolts concentrates more heat, more likely to melt the thread locker and break any oxidation freezing. The aluminum will conduct heat quickly, so fast it will be harder to melt the loctite
 
Pretty sure he is talking about brake-rotor-to-wheel bolts, not caliper-to-holder bolts. Wheel off the bike. Caliper is not involved.

Heat the wheel around the bolt to encourage the aluminium to expand.
Yes it is the rear brake rotor bolts, thx
 
Do you have one of these?
250px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png

You should.
Heat and an impact driver will remove 99% of stuck fasteners.
 
Do you have one of these?
250px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png

You should.
Heat and an impact driver will remove 99% of stuck fasteners.
100%. But be sure to take up the spring slack (compress the spring) as much as you can before striking a blow. Then they work great.
 
Be sure to use the exact torx bit. They are the best fastener imho, but the fastener can be ruined using the wrong bit.
So you frown on me using allen wrenches for torx stuff. Doesn't work that great anyway.....
 
So you frown on me using allen wrenches for torx stuff. Doesn't work that great anyway.....
Why would you do that? A lot of manufacturers have switched over to torx for one simple reason. It's better.
 
Not when you have to buy a set of easy outs and cobalt drill bits after you strip the head of the fastener. But go nuts.
 
Be sure to use the exact torx bit. They are the best fastener imho, but the fastener can be ruined using the wrong bit.
Yes I checked and found it was T-45, searching online HD forums reports the same results. Still don't like these torx....
 
A somewhat similar situation in this thread and perhaps the suggestions in the thread may help

 
A somewhat similar situation in this thread and perhaps the suggestions in the thread may help

Thanks I will check that out!
 

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