Stubborn caliper bolt :(

[Brian P]

Just bought it. This is a learning experience for me, as I find out many things are not written in the books. For example, I always tighten a notch more everything than what's in the torque specs in the service manual.

Well, it sounds more like it is written in the book, you're just ignoring it and now finding out the hard way.

Overtightening a fastener is generally a bigger problem than undertightening it. Tighten to the correct torque - what it says in the book - not that little smidge more. That little smidge more is what strips threads and strips bolt heads and makes things a bear to remove later on.

There are things that need to be loctited, and there are other things that need to be treated with antiseize compound - and there are two types of antiseize, the regular stuff (moly based) and the high temperature stuff (copper based). This is an application for the latter one.

Don't use loctite on a fastener that is not hardened (grade 10.9 or higher). Not many things on a bike use hardened fasteners except inside the engine. If you want to use loctite on something that's notorious for working loose (rearsets are a good example) then either make sure the fasteners are hardened or swap them out for hardened fasteners. Socket-head, Torx, and hex head fasteners that you can get a full 6 point socket on, can be used with Loctite. If you Loctite something that has a star/philips head or something that you can only get to with an open end wrench, heaven help later on, you're going to need it.

 

[Corsara]

Well, it sounds more like it is written in the book, you're just ignoring it and now finding out the hard way.

Overtightening a fastener is generally a bigger problem than undertightening it. Tighten to the correct torque - what it says in the book - not that little smidge more. That little smidge more is what strips threads and strips bolt heads and makes things a bear to remove later on.

There are things that need to be loctited, and there are other things that need to be treated with antiseize compound - and there are two types of antiseize, the regular stuff (moly based) and the high temperature stuff (copper based). This is an application for the latter one.

Don't use loctite on a fastener that is not hardened (grade 10.9 or higher). Not many things on a bike use hardened fasteners except inside the engine. If you want to use loctite on something that's notorious for working loose (rearsets are a good example) then either make sure the fasteners are hardened or swap them out for hardened fasteners. Socket-head, Torx, and hex head fasteners that you can get a full 6 point socket on, can be used with Loctite. If you Loctite something that has a star/philips head or something that you can only get to with an open end wrench, heaven help later on, you're going to need it.

Very informative! Thanks Brian, I'll jot this down in my notes for future reference and plan to act on.

 

[carboncat]

for future reference, Corsara is wayyy to hard on his nuts.

 

[Sadz]

Well, it sounds more like it is written in the book, you're just ignoring it and now finding out the hard way.

Overtightening a fastener is generally a bigger problem than undertightening it. Tighten to the correct torque - what it says in the book - not that little smidge more. That little smidge more is what strips threads and strips bolt heads and makes things a bear to remove later on.

There are things that need to be loctited, and there are other things that need to be treated with antiseize compound - and there are two types of antiseize, the regular stuff (moly based) and the high temperature stuff (copper based). This is an application for the latter one.

Don't use loctite on a fastener that is not hardened (grade 10.9 or higher). Not many things on a bike use hardened fasteners except inside the engine. If you want to use loctite on something that's notorious for working loose (rearsets are a good example) then either make sure the fasteners are hardened or swap them out for hardened fasteners. Socket-head, Torx, and hex head fasteners that you can get a full 6 point socket on, can be used with Loctite. If you Loctite something that has a star/philips head or something that you can only get to with an open end wrench, heaven help later on, you're going to need it.

Agreed Brian! There are engineers that design these items and they get paid a good buck to do so. They don't design torque specs with a +/- a notch more or less. It's in black and white in the manual ..... it's up to you if you choose to follow.
Cheers, Sadz.

 

[DownUnder]

for future reference, corsara is wayyy to hard on his nuts.

lmao

 

[Corsara]

Yep, makes sense and I'll do it.

I just checked ebay---same right caliper, I can have it shipped to Niagara for $25 altogether. Should I buy it or try spotface the hole, which will probably cost me just the same, huh?

Well, picked up the 25 dollar caliper today from Niagara. Since it came with its original lines, when I removed the banjo at home---holy crap, the smell....I think that caliper has been in storage for 10 years, lol... Anyway, ordered two sets of seals, and I'll clean them up and rebuild them good. Let's hope I don't find some rust or something inside..