Was about to do my first oil change on my bike today, and got two of the 3 bolts off to get at the engine and then the third one I saw was stripped. Bike is used. What the hell should I do? I tried putting a rubber band into the mangled bolt to try to get leverage but it didn't work.
Stripped bolt on fairing - can't do an oil change - suggestions?
- Thread starter wideiris
- Start date
You will have to give us a description of what kind of fastener it is, and what type of access you have to it. If the shoulder of the bolt is accessible, just clamp some vice-grips onto the side and spin it out. From my experience, the vice-grip branded locking pliers are much better at this than the cheap knock-offs. If the head is recessed you could try tapping a torx bit (ideally) or imperial allen key into the bolt as you may be able to get enough bite to remove it.
What kind of fastener is it? A Torx bit should only be used on a Torx screw. An allen socket should only be used on a socket-head.
Not many bikes (none that I can think of, but I wouldn't put it past the Germans) use Torx fasteners on fairings.
Not many bikes (none that I can think of, but I wouldn't put it past the Germans) use Torx fasteners on fairings.
moarmoto
Well-known member
Its allen bolt. But it was referring to forcing a torx bit thats a tad bit larger than the stripped allen slot for an attempt to remove the bolt.
I read about it and saw videos online but haven't done it yet. Being lazy. My bike can wait for an oil change for another 1000 or so.
BMW s1000rr almost every bolt in the bike is torx
^ Unsurprising on a German vehicle. (I haven't worked on a S1000R, but I have worked on German cars.) I actually like Torx fasteners - they are more resistant to having the head stripped out than just about anything else. The Germans (and, evidently, the Austrians) use them on almost everything, the Japanese don't seem to use them at all.
Mercedes likes using E sockets ... basically a reverse Torx. (The head of the bolt is shaped like a Torx bit and the socket has the recess in it.) They seem to be pretty good - they might even be better than Torx, because the heads aren't hollow, so they don't get filled up with crap, and even if the bolt is dirty, you can just brush off the outside of it. Upon recently acquiring a vehicle built by Mercedes, this required buying yet another socket set, though.
Mercedes likes using E sockets ... basically a reverse Torx. (The head of the bolt is shaped like a Torx bit and the socket has the recess in it.) They seem to be pretty good - they might even be better than Torx, because the heads aren't hollow, so they don't get filled up with crap, and even if the bolt is dirty, you can just brush off the outside of it. Upon recently acquiring a vehicle built by Mercedes, this required buying yet another socket set, though.
Japanese use them too--on my GSXR, the bolt holding the steering damper to the triple is Torx. Also, the bolts that are holding the brake calipers halves together are Torx. Haven't found other Torx on the bike other than these.
I like the torx fasteners, especially on the BMW because not only are they torx but they are high quality and finish. The only reason I don't like them, is that I don't have a lot of torx tools, since I don't normally need them. After working on the BMW I would invest in some nice torx T-handles, etc
I don't know if BMW uses the same as KTM, but on my KTM the torx bolts are also 6-sided bolts so you have the option to use either tool.
Thanks for that link. I have a set of "easy-outs" but they require pre-drilling and their success is spotty some times. I checked out the kit you posted and found that the 4 piece kit is also on for 1/2 price this week so picked that one up (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...aft+Maximum+Grab-IT+4-piece+Set.jsp?locale=en). Tool guy said that since these have come out they've greatly surpassed the sale of "easy-outs".
... And the ignition lock bolts are security torx.
moarmoto
Well-known member
Man... I tried Grabit (#3,#2), drilling for an extractor, dremelling a slot for flathead, JB weld (epoxy) a sacrificial allen key but all failed....
For extractor or grabit I get no bite and it simply won't work.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 4 Beta
For extractor or grabit I get no bite and it simply won't work.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Drill it all the way out, and use a tap to chase the threads...If it doesnt come out on its own during the drilling process. Usually if I do a good job centering the drill on the bolt threads, soon as I drill about half way into the bolt threads the drill bit grabs the rest and turns it out and it falls out the other end....Or I can stop the mill or drill and it sticks to the bolts then I just turn it out manually
