sticky throttle | GTAMotorcycle.com

sticky throttle

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timtune

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83 Gl1100
Working the carbs by hand they snap back shut very well. Took the twist/grip/ cables off and lubed them. They work mint.
If I install the cables with no bends just holding them up straight the throttle works well. Routeing the cables properly adds a couple bends (very generous radius) and then the carbs don't snap all the way shut.

It looks like there could be a very slight kink in one cable near the end but working the cables free by hand it doesn't hang seem to hang up at all on it. New cables are an option but honestly I can't see them being much better. These move quite freely.

After numerous routing variations I said eff it and added another spring on the carb. The limp wristed will not be invited for a pass.

Any thoughts on the proper fix?
 
Are sure you are supposed to lube the cables? On my Honda ST1100 you aren’t supposed to as the cable tubes are lined with teflon. I did lube them in error many years ago but still working properly. The other thing to check is how loose in the throttle grip housing. Mine had a bit of slack and made them bind. There is a sweet spot there you have to check. Also do it while moving the handlebars from right lock to left lock.
 
What did you use to lube the cables?
 
Wind Shear said:
it has push/pull, throttle return cable as well?
Not enough slack on the throttle return cable has cased similar symptoms in my very limited experience.
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Interesting. I'll check that.
 
PrivatePilot said:
What did you use to lube the cables?
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Well first I lubed them with 10W30. They worked very well but there was a bit of drag. So then I flushed/lubed them with WD40 and the drag was gone. I would not expect new to work any better really.
 
timtune said:
I would not expect new to work any better really.
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Still not sure why you think a new cable wouldn't fix it if the throttle operates properly with the cables straight but not routed. Do you have another set of known good cables you can attach with the same routing, even if they're not the right length? That should prove or rule it out.
 
Relax said:
Still not sure why you think a new cable wouldn't fix it if the throttle operates properly with the cables straight but not routed. Do you have another set of known good cables you can attach with the same routing, even if they're not the right length? That should prove or rule it out.
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No I don't have a second set of cables.
My thought was if the cables worked well straight, then they should not be the issue. Wouldn't badly worn cables be sticky or hang up some?
 
WD40 is terrible as a lubricant. It’s designed to displace water, hence “WD” - “water displacement”.

When attempted to used in that fashion in some circumstances it can actually make things worse.

Try again with PB Blaster.
 
PrivatePilot said:
WD40 is terrible as a lubricant. It’s designed to displace water, hence “WD” - “water displacement”.

When attempted to used in that fashion in some circumstances it can actually make things worse.

Try again with PB Blaster.
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With the assembly out on the bench working the cables I really don't see how they could move any smoother.
 
Wind Shear said:
it has push/pull, throttle return cable as well?
Not enough slack on the throttle return cable has cased similar symptoms in my very limited experience.
Click to expand...

^^^ mostly this.

It sounds very much like an adjustment would fix it.

Or the cable (not the sheath) could have a kink in it from sitting for decades that is worse at its installed configuration.

Don't be surprised if adding the second spring doesn't stress the old cable enough to break it eventually.

If there aren't rules in place that necessitate the use of the closing cable (not technically a push cable because cables can't push) then remove it and use only the opening cable.

Other than that... dunno. It's 40 year old cable? I know as much about saving old cables as I do about washing toilet paper. Some things just get thrown out and replaced with new.
 
timtune said:
No I don't have a second set of cables.
My thought was if the cables worked well straight, then they should not be the issue. Wouldn't badly worn cables be sticky or hang up some?
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When the cables are straight, there's less contact and almost no friction between the internal cable and the outer housing. Bends in the routing increases friction and wear at those points. Given enough usage, I imagine the metal cable wearing away the inside of the plastic housing, especially if not lubricated regularly.
 
timtune said:
Took the twist/grip/ cables off and lubed them. They work mint.
If I install the cables with no bends just holding them up straight the throttle works well. Routeing the cables properly adds a couple bends (very generous radius) and then the carbs don't snap all the way shut.
Click to expand...

Hold on - when you say they don't snap shut now, is that with the cables attached to the throttle tube, or unattached and operated with pliers by pulling on the barrels? I've been assuming the latter. If they're connected to the throttle tube and it won't snap shut, remove them but keep them routed, then pull on the pull cable with pliers, let go and see if it closes properly. If it does, then it could just need a cable adjustment as others have mentioned.
 
This may be obvious, but it doesn't hurt to make sure that if you have some type of bar end attachents, they aren't touching the end of your throttle grip.
 
Wind Shear said:
it has push/pull, throttle return cable as well?
Not enough slack on the throttle return cable has cased similar symptoms in my very limited experience.
Click to expand...
I've been installing them w/o doing any adjustment (loosest setting) but now I'm thinking about the second adjustment point midway on one cable. Maybe I was wrong to ignore that.
(Effing Wing! adjustment on both ends of each cable and we need a fifth??)
 
Relax said:
Hold on - when you say they don't snap shut now, is that with the cables attached to the throttle tube, or unattached and operated with pliers by pulling on the barrels? I've been assuming the latter. If they're connected to the throttle tube and it won't snap shut, remove them but keep them routed, then pull on the pull cable with pliers, let go and see if it closes properly. If it does, then it could just need a cable adjustment as others have mentioned.
Click to expand...
No. With the cables attached the carbs are hanging up on the last, say 1/8 of the twist. Discon them with cables in the same routing and the work fine.
No bar end stuff.
I'll be playing with the 5th adjuster point as a start.
 
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