Well it was a lowide, so it was snapped off at a angle. But the swingarm is perfectly fine and the hole which the bolt is in also seems fine.
What should i use to heat the locktite? A butane torch? Because before i put the locktite in, the bolt would eventually unscrew due to the vibration of the bike. So the bolt should be easy to move after removing the locktite.
easier way....take it to any bike shop with a welder and have them tack a piece of scrap metal on the screw. the heat will loosen the locktite and expand the aluminium. just hand turn it out.
Theres lots of ways to get that out, but from looking at the photo I would use a new sharp drill and carefully drill into the centre of the bolt, tap in an easyout (extractor) and see if it comes out easy.
If it resists at all, then heat it up with a butane torch (take the easyout , out) and then let it COOL before trying it again. The heated bolt will expand and be hard fast in the threads, letting it cool will relax the bond and the heating should have softened the loctite.
It should be a 15-20 min job with a beer break. You could replace that bolt with a grade 9 fastener that would not snap off rendering the spool useless if your planning on more lowsides.
Chop off the whole spool and tab, flush with the bottom of the swingarm. SO it looks like bikes did before they came with factory spool holes. Then buy Pitbull ones and weld them on where the stock ones were. The Pitbull ones are way more substantial.
You can get a bolt extractor kit -- centre punch the bolt...the drill into it with the supplied drill bit (take your time drilling let the debris come out...then drill some more...giving yourself a nice enough opening for the "extractor" bit that comes in the kit....put the extractor in .... give it a solid hit with a hammer, to bury it in nicely.....then put a wrench on the extractor bit **** here is the key ***** tap the wrench that is on the extractor bit...with a hammer....rather than using solid muscel --- tap...tap...tap....then the bolt will likely be free and you can spin it out --- extractor kit is about $18 ... (PS -- heating it up will help...but you might not want to heat the paint on your bike, so remember to "tap" the wrench....
I know a little late but a good way to try is get a left hand drill bit with extractor. (usually comes in a kit). first center puch the bolt. Use a torch and apply small amount of heat. just enough to melt the lock-tite. then use the left handed drill bit. Some times this is enough on its own to loosen the bolt. if not keep drilling until your through. then use the extractor and try to remove.
I know a little late but a good way to try is get a left hand drill bit with extractor. (usually comes in a kit). first center puch the bolt. Use a torch and apply small amount of heat. just enough to melt the lock-tite. then use the left handed drill bit. Some times this is enough on its own to loosen the bolt. if not keep drilling until your through. then use the extractor and try to remove.
I still haven't done it yet, bike is in storage and don't feel like working on it. I did however take out the other side's spool which also had locktite, didn't have much trouble taking it out. So when spring comes, I'm going to just heat it up using a torch and see if it'll loosen. If not, I'll just try it with a bolt extractor.
It should be a 15-20 min job with a beer break. You could replace that bolt with a grade 9 fastener that would not snap off rendering the spool useless if your planning on more lowsides.[/QUOTE
Be cautious about using a grade 9 fastener here, they can still be broken off (trust me done it) and when you go to drill out the grade 9 bolt you will not touch it with standard high speed steel drills, cobalt would be a minimum. Its sometimes better to stick with a metric 10.9 strength then you will be able to get the next one out too.
Chop off the whole spool and tab, flush with the bottom of the swingarm. SO it looks like bikes did before they came with factory spool holes. Then buy Pitbull ones and weld them on where the stock ones were. The Pitbull ones are way more substantial.
I have a friend who is a machinist that doesn't think it's a good idea to weld anything on the swingarm because it will anneal it and make it weaker. I used to be a machinist but I have no idea, never worked with aluminum much except to machine it. I have the same sort of problem, only I ripped a tab off at Calabogie.
Every part of your bike's been welded...incl the swingarm. It's probably al annealed- I'd just throw the whole frame in the garbage to be safe. lol j/k
Considering the very little bit of torsional load the spools will ever see, a small pair of tack welds at the front of the spool, another small pair at the back of the spool, and I am sure it'd be fine. My swingarm hasn't fallen off yet. I have a pair of them.
To be honest, I went through the same mental gyration... like... wtf dude, it's all been welded, take a look at the axle block. But he doesn't want to do it... guess I'll have to fix it another way or pay someone else.
Gilles ones have been known to snap and/or shatter on litrebikes. A friend of mine crashed his ZX10 due to one breaking.
A few riders at Gixxer.com have had Gilles chain ajuster lifts break on them as well.
I'm suprised no one has suggested this yet. Take off the othe other side and look at the bolt. Alot of these swingarm spools use a threaded "hex" bolt that threads into the spool portion by using an allen key with some red locktite. When these break you just go from inside the swingarm (where the wheel is) and use a allen key to screw it out. If you bike doesn't have holes that go all the way through or your spools do not use that "hex" bolt than you need to drill it out and use and extractor.
I'm suprised no one has suggested this yet. Take off the othe other side and look at the bolt. Alot of these swingarm spools use a threaded "hex" bolt that threads into the spool portion by using an allen key with some red locktite. When these break you just go from inside the swingarm (where the wheel is) and use a allen key to screw it out. If you bike doesn't have holes that go all the way through or your spools do not use that "hex" bolt than you need to drill it out and use and extractor.
Doubt a Ninja 250 will have something like that. But you just gave me a good idea. I'm going to red locktite a nob onto the the snapped bolt (smooth off surface first) and then just turn it out. The red locktite is stronger than the blue so it should work.
Gilles ones have been known to snap and/or shatter on litrebikes. A friend of mine crashed his ZX10 due to one breaking.
A few riders at Gixxer.com have had Gilles chain ajuster lifts break on them as well.
Mine arent Gilles, they are Light Tech....And are much beefier then the old style Gilles, Ive had those too and yes they do seem weak because they put alot ot time into milling them into fancy shapes. Removing alot of material..Gilles now has a new design out...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
