[Solved] Headlamp frame - Can this be welded?

[sburns]

what's up with the bolt hole above your splint?
it looks funny

Oh you mean the way it looks dirty. Just thread lock junk/residue.

 

[sburns]

If the glue has started to cure, let it finish.
When you add more glue; rough the smooth surface first.
It will adhere better

Well after your other comment, I decided against a test run tonight. And instead took it apart and applied more glue. When I first did the glue with the splint I did roughen the material. Now it is fully covered, new photo tomorrow.

 

[sburns]

Ok here is how it looks now after applying more glue. Seems stiff, put it back together already. Not sure if I will go for a ride tonight, but definitely tomorrow.

 

[sburns]

Hey all, went for a ride today and it looks like the JB weld held up! No rattles, and I just checked it again and the headlight doesn't wiggle like it did before

Thanks all for the suggestions, tips, advice!

 

[oioioi]

Awesome
What will you do with the new one you are getting
Leave it for a rainy day

 

[sburns]

Awesome
What will you do with the new one you are getting
Leave it for a rainy day

Yes I was thinking exactly that.

While dealing with all this I suspect the design is semi flawed. It's not supported as well as it should be with only 2 screws for this bracket when it should have been 3 or 4. Considering how much shaking is going on at the front, just the nature of HD's.
I suspect the issue might return again, so it's nice to have a replacement.

 

[nobbie48]

Ok here is my hack splint job. Don't laugh. Just what I had around the house, actually it is a piece of metal from a hook off a pegboard. Didn't have anything else around to use, but the metal was good and stiff and right size. I was hoping to wrap some wire around it just in case but you can see there is no room to do that. Might go for a test run later. ?

View attachment 44200
View attachment 44201

If I'm seeing this right the part has been stamped out and brake formed. I've never seen a white metal part that got bent so either aluminum or stainless alloys.

The key word is alloy. Every alloy has its own welding and forming characteristics. 300 series stainless needs a different silver solder if that's the way you go forward and that is the alloy. I've done a bit of 300 soldering and if you use the wrong solder the joint fails down the road.

Design. If there are two holes, one on each side, would that allow the part to flutter like a throttle plate, eventually snapping the part? If so the whole assembly needs a rework.

P.S. I have some silver solder if you need it. PM me.

 

[nobbie48]

I'm not an engineer but it looks like a fatigue break where the rim was notched to allow for the tabs to be bent. All the vibrations would accumulate at this type of point. The tabs would stiffen one section while the adjacent bit it was weakened by the notch.

If this is the case and the replacement is the same, get some spares.

Alternately and without knowing if it was possible, the hot rodders used to fix fender splits on the 30's cars (They flexed and failed) and then weld / braze a steel rod into the edge of the fender to stiffen it. Is there is room for such a thing?

 

[sburns]

Finally received my replacement headlamp ring. (because of the crossboarder pickup nonsense, delays).

The JB weld is holding up though, so this will be a backup if something more happens.

I was surprised when opening the package they sent what looks like a complete replacement kit. Both frames and the hardware with new springs!
Kudo's to Kuryakyn!!

 

[sburns]

Well this happened again.....


I do have the replacement part, but would rather keep it until I really need it, and will just reglue this. Chipped off the one side of the old glue and cleaned up the rod. Then wrapped some copper wire around it and glued it again. Hopefully it works for a second time!