How are the lakes? Is the slush deep
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Snow Blower Driveway test
- Thread starter nobbie48
- Start date
Iceman
Well-known member
We got hit pretty good here in Barrie yesterday. I pulled out the snowblower and went straight to tackling the deep plow runoff at the end of the driveway.
Right after I finished the deepest stuff, it just quit moving, I assumed a belt so I just stuck it in the garage and shoveled.
Last night I inspected it to find one seriously rusty chain had skipped off two seriously rusty sprockets.
Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
Right after I finished the deepest stuff, it just quit moving, I assumed a belt so I just stuck it in the garage and shoveled.
Last night I inspected it to find one seriously rusty chain had skipped off two seriously rusty sprockets.
Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
Everything appears to be working. Put on new belt, auger started turning. Touched an inch of snow....auger stopped and couldn’t get it going again.
impeller is spinning but the auger is not. Shear pins appear to be in order (unless they’re not and just rusted in place).
Can move the auger by hand with belt on about 1/4 turn then stop.
Take belt off and can’t move auger.
Can move the impeller by hand and the auger moved properly.
Im at a loss. Will get back into it tonight after work.
Priller
Well-known member
I only have experience with the one model, but if I recall, on mine the augur and impeller were linked by a transfer gear. If one turned, the other turned, albeit with a little slop. If my shear pins were intact and the augur and impeller weren't doing the same thing, I'd be looking at that gear...
Symptoms fit with worm drive failure. If some of the teeth are missing it will have some places it works and others it doesn't. They probably get very little preventative maintenance. I haven't heard of one failing before though.
Just turned it on. Runs fine when I fire it up, put a tiny bit of resistance on it and boom....no more auger.
Still fits with worm gear failure. Try an oil change on the front gearbox and see what comes out.
I've had to replace a drive belt this season. Thought it would be annoyingly time consuming but it was easy and quick (I know nothing about snowblowers but learning).
Then I had the Auger ice up after a clearing last time and almost burned up the auger belt the next time I tried to use it.
After this latest snowfall the auger cable linkage was sticky so again no worky until I took the cover off and wiggled it to work decent. I think there's way too much old grease in there freezing.
Then I had the Auger ice up after a clearing last time and almost burned up the auger belt the next time I tried to use it.
After this latest snowfall the auger cable linkage was sticky so again no worky until I took the cover off and wiggled it to work decent. I think there's way too much old grease in there freezing.
It's the 20 YO Sears one I sold him because I hadn't used it much for a few years. It was working when I sold it but who knows how tired the gears were.
I once bought a used boat from a dry land marina and when I picked it up the guy showed me it running with a hose and muffs. A tank and a half of gas later there was a bang and it turned out he never checked the lower unit oil.
He was decent and ate the repair cost although he wasn't smiling.
**** happens is all. I’m using this as an opportunity to learn to wrench on it. I’m now stuck at removing the augers as they’re rusted onto the shaft. WD40 and a hammer are no help! LoL
might try a torch and see what happens.
No oil came out when I cracked it. Some white grease can be seen.
until I crack it I can’t inspect the gears or do anything.
it might have overtorqued but since the auger is rusted on a shear bolt wouldn’t have done squat.
might try a torch and see what happens.
No oil came out when I cracked it. Some white grease can be seen.
until I crack it I can’t inspect the gears or do anything.
it might have overtorqued but since the auger is rusted on a shear bolt wouldn’t have done squat.
See, we're all learning. Now I know it's not a bad plan to pull the shear bolts at least once a year to rotate and try to lube the shaft.
Never hurts to help! Now go and lube that shaft!
If I get the auger off you’re damn right I’ll grease em axle sticks!
I haven't had to service the nuts & bolts I replaced the shear pins with.......ever.
It's off and fortunately the teeth on the brass gear are only chewed off on one side.
It seems the recommended grease for the gearbox is Lubriplate GR 132. It supposedly is self feeding so the grease keeps getting pulled back into the meshing gears rather than squeezed out. This is common with most power tools where there are reducing gears in drills and saws. Why would the 132 be different than any other HP grease? I'm having trouble finding the GR 132 in small quantities. They can order in 440 pound drums but I only need 3-4 ounces.
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