Smallest/Fuel efficient car that can tow a motorcycle trailer

black_CG2

black_CG2

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Just looking for advice.

In future, I will be in the market looking for a small vehicle that can tow a bike on trailer.

Requirements:

- Fuel efficient
- Reliable
- Can tow 1000-1500 lbs

And go...!
 
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I use my 2005 Honda Civic sedan; it's a 5 speed which I think helps a lot. I also only go from London to Grand Bend typically, pretty flat and max speed is about 105-110. I town my 4x8 flat trailer with a wheel chock with either my 08 gixxer 750 or my 03 SV650 track bike. Not sure how it'd handle the mountains.
 
I towed an open motorcycle trailer that weight range with 2 bikes on it, with a diesel Jetta manual, for years.
 
I think the consensus the last time we had this thread was that you can put a class I hitch on almost anything, just make sure your brakes work and load the trailer properly. North American market cars generally have very conservative tow ratings because ??
 
I frequently tow a dirt bike and small open trailer with a 3rd gen Hyundai Accent 5 spd. No problems with hills or highway speeds. I've also towed much heavier loads to the dump after house renovations.
 
My friends parents used to tow a camping trailer with a 80s Nissan sentra wagon, probably 60hp all over the country so any car should tow an open bike trailer.

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My 04 mustang v6's owner manual says that you cannot tow. Hmm.

I mean it is a v6 with manual gearbox. So why should it not tow?
 
Many many vehicles in north america have little to no tow ratings while identical vehicles in europe are rating for ~3000 lbs. I think it mainly comes down to manufacturers pushing people into high profit SUV's in NA.

I have towed with standard diesel golfs for years with no problems. Fuel economy drops to ~7 L/100 km when pulling a load. I try to keep loads to ~1000 lbs, but have gone higher on occasion. I'm more concerned with braking stability than power as the weight climbs. None have ever started dancing on me, but I don't want to find out what load is required to piss it off.

Hell, my dad pulled a ~2000 lb trailer with a 1980 50 hp diesel (obviously slowly up hills but otherwise no problems).

I would stick with standard for a tow vehicle and avoid dual-clutch autos like the plague if an auto is required for some reason.
 
Regularly towed a 1200 pound boat / trailer package with a Datsun 510 / 1600 cc 4 speed.

I think Grey Ghost nails it with the manufacturer's SUV push. My Elantra has a zero two rating here but apparently in Europe 2000 pounds weighs the same as zero Canadian.

Any excuse to bail out on warranties.
 
Also note that small efficient cars are only efficient as designed. Mid sized with a manual transmission would meet all your needs and some. Manual is a must as the same car but auto cannot tow as much as the manual. The mid size car will also have the power to do the job right. The little car will be getting put under extreme load. Every stop and start will really tax it. Replacing a tranny or engine will out weigh what would be saved in gas...
 
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Standard car would be preferable.
Otherwise, automatics may have more opportunity to heat up and cause troubles, assuming you don't install an auxiliary transmission cooler.

Might I suggest a wagon so you can sleep in the back and still tow?
The ultimate cheap travel will be the most fuel efficient v8/turbo 4 SUV that you can sleep in, but also tow an enclosed trailer for your bike and travel gear.
 
My F150 V8 uses 13L/100km with a bike in the back. My subaru forester uses around 9L/100km just driving unloaded. I use 19-21L/100 pulling a 22 foot trailer with a bike in the truck bed. But on a day to day use the Subaru will save me more, but if needed the truck has more uses but will cost me in the long run, but that is why I have a motorcycle :walk:
 
I think you spilled some beer on the keyboard
 
MSRP said:
Standard car would be preferable.
The ultimate cheap travel will be the most fuel efficient v8/turbo 4 SUV that you can sleep in, but also tow an enclosed trailer for your bike and travel gear.
Click to expand...
That's not cheap if his tow car is his commuter the rest of the time. Planning the perfect vehicle purchase around a 0.1% usage scenario is always going to end up wasting money (I'm looking at you, off-road and 'track day special' commuters).
 
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MSRP said:
Standard car would be preferable.
Otherwise, automatics may have more opportunity to heat up and cause troubles, assuming you don't install an auxiliary transmission cooler.

Might I suggest a wagon so you can sleep in the back and still tow?
The ultimate cheap travel will be the most fuel efficient v8/turbo 4 SUV that you can sleep in, but also tow an enclosed trailer for your bike and travel gear.
Click to expand...
Tow rating is alway higher on the auto version on trucks not sure if that may apply to cars as well.

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Ethereal said:
My F150 V8 uses 13L/100km with a bike in the back. My subaru forester uses around 9L/100km just driving unloaded. I use 19-21L/100 pulling a 22 foot trailer with a bike in the truck bed. But on a day to day use the Subaru will save me more, but if needed the truck has more uses but will cost me in the long run, but that is why I have a motorcycle :walk:
Click to expand...

my old subaru outback got 10L/100km whether i was towing my trailer (4x8) with bike or not. didn't seem to make much difference. now if I had a larger trailer that probably would have affected things.
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