Shop that can run wires internally - handlebars | GTAMotorcycle.com

Shop that can run wires internally - handlebars

JFD

JFD

Well-known member
Hey all, looking for a shop that can run the electrical through my new bars - they're 14" tall and have 2 90 degree hard bends.

Been trying to do this myself but after loads of frustration, its going to either be run the wires externally (****) or get someone to do them for me.

The stock wires from the control units are just too short so I need to get them extended and run.

If you know of anyone that can run them between Burlington/Hamilton/Grimsby/stoney/Niagara, please let me know...

Thanks...

James
 
It's not easy to do this, I just replaced controls on an OldWing and had to do same. Here's how I do it

Feed a strand of mechanic's wire thru the bottom hole and out the top hole of your bars.
Remove all the connectors from the nacelle end of the control harness.
Remove any shrouding that bundles and protects the control wiring
Fix a small electrical horsecock to the end of the bundle and die the end to the mechanics wire near the grip end.
Generously lube the sides, then gently pull the harness through

The wiring holes in custom bars might be too small for stock wiring, they are made for minimalized custom builds which only feed 2 wires to the right control and 4 wires to the left control. You can solve this by simplifying the wiring to the controls OR grilling out the entry / exit holes.
 
Lube. I never thought of that, though I've never had a problem with tight spaces. Erm. Moving on...

I've run internal wires on an older bike of mine but these are drastic bends. I managed to run 6 out of 10 on one side. Running the other four was tight.
 
You are pulling them through one at a time? I have always had better luck pulling the bundle at the same time. Use lots of lube, it makes a huge difference. The hardest part is normally getting the first pulling wire through. Depending on how the bars were bent, there is the possibility that there isn't room for your 10 wires through the bends and you may need to drop some functions or use smaller wire through the bars.
 
FLSTC said:
What is this electrical device?
Click to expand...
1zj1QYu.jpg


These are fast and quite secure. For some applications, I have had better luck taping the wires together instead of a horsecock, but normally I do both as I don't want to have to refish a conduit.
 
GreyGhost said:
You are pulling them through one at a time? I have always had better luck pulling the bundle at the same time. Use lots of lube, it makes a huge difference. The hardest part is normally getting the first pulling wire through. Depending on how the bars were bent, there is the possibility that there isn't room for your 10 wires through the bends and you may need to drop some functions or use smaller wire through the bars.
Click to expand...
Yeah lots of lube - vaseline works. Smear every wire the whole length, they must not have friction with the in/out holes, inside of the bar or with each other.

You might also look at simplifying the 10 wire bundle, you will need a schematic. You can easily mod the control and reduce to 6 wires: 1 wire for each: +12 power, High beam, low beam, horn, L and R.
 
Mad Mike said:
Yeah lots of lube - vaseline works. Smear every wire the whole length, they must not have friction with the in/out holes, inside of the bar or with each other.

You might also look at simplifying the 10 wire bundle, you will need a schematic. You can easily mod the control and reduce to 6 wires: 1 wire for each: +12 power, High beam, low beam, horn, L and R.
Click to expand...
And depending on the bike, you may be able to ditch the low beam wire and just leave low permanently on.
 
GreyGhost said:
And depending on the bike, you may be able to ditch the low beam wire and just leave low permanently on.
Click to expand...
If you're really good you can get it to 4: Hi beam, L, R, Horn.
 
Mad Mike said:
If you're really good you can get it to 4: Hi beam, L, R, Horn.
Click to expand...
... and you're going to power these three different circuits how?
Load: 5 wires hi/low beam, two signals and horn
Feed: 3 wires headlight, signals, horn each have their own fuse.

What I have done in the past was splice the OEM wire with hi performance wire of the same gauge that is smaller outer diameter .
I suggest you do not use vaseline as pulling lube. It attracts and holds grit which will abrade the wires. Dish soap works well, then rinses away easily with water.
If you're pulling a bunch of wires, break them up. Let's say you gots 10 wires. Tape 4 together, start them, pull a couple of inches, add three more, pull a couple of inches, then add the last. That way you're not trying to pull a big knot at the end.
Good luck trying to find a shop that will sign up for this sort of work.
 
bitzz said:
... and you're going to power these three different circuits how?
Load: 5 wires hi/low beam, two signals and horn
Feed: 3 wires headlight, signals, horn each have their own fuse.

What I have done in the past was splice the OEM wire with hi performance wire of the same gauge that is smaller outer diameter .
I suggest you do not use vaseline as pulling lube. It attracts and holds grit which will abrade the wires. Dish soap works well, then rinses away easily with water.
If you're pulling a bunch of wires, break them up. Let's say you gots 10 wires. Tape 4 together, start them, pull a couple of inches, add three more, pull a couple of inches, then add the last. That way you're not trying to pull a big knot at the end.
Good luck trying to find a shop that will sign up for this sort of work.
Click to expand...
Good point about staggering the ends.

If you were trying to get to 4 wires, either everything runs off one fuse and you make the handlebars +12V (not ideal for many reasons) or you use the switches to switch ground. That keeps all the circuits separate but may require some fiddling at the components to isolate ground.
 
bitzz said:
... and you're going to power these three different circuits how?
Load: 5 wires hi/low beam, two signals and horn
Feed: 3 wires headlight, signals, horn each have their own fuse.

What I have done in the past was splice the OEM wire with hi performance wire of the same gauge that is smaller outer diameter .
I suggest you do not use vaseline as pulling lube. It attracts and holds grit which will abrade the wires. Dish soap works well, then rinses away easily with water.
If you're pulling a bunch of wires, break them up. Let's say you gots 10 wires. Tape 4 together, start them, pull a couple of inches, add three more, pull a couple of inches, then add the last. That way you're not trying to pull a big knot at the end.
Good luck trying to find a shop that will sign up for this sort of work.
Click to expand...
4 wires to the controls is simple, each switch completes the circuit to ground using the bars themselves. If this creeps you out, run a 5th ground wire back the frame. It's work, but not that complicated. (+12 to the bars? Only on Brit would think of such a thing!)

As for tape, it might work but I'll bet it adds resistance to the pull and makes it tough to feed through the restricted portholes. Dishsoap is a good idea, but don't worry about using vaseline, it's gonna be inside the bars.
 
Didn’t read all the posts so maybe this was mentioned but when extending the wires stagger where you cut them and solder. You don’t want to do them all at the same spot and have to pull a big bulge through. I just tape a piece of string to the bundle of wires and pull them through. Just have a little patience.

If you only need like 3-4 inches per wire to be extended hit me up. I’m in Hamilton and have some left over wire from doing my road king bars last year, can’t have it all but I can cut you off some.
 
Last edited:
The horsecock was the ticket - its called a wire mesh grip incase anyone needs to ask around about it and feels strange asking for a horsecock.

All it took was one pull to get 'er done.

Erm..... Ok, have at it. This is a loaded post.
 
Nothing like a little greasy horsepower! Anytime you need to fish wires, the good ole "wire mesh grip" is a go-to tool.

Glad you got her done.
 
I had a motorcycle with wiring through the bars once. It fell over and the bars bent right where the holes were drilled, half the wires got sheared off when the lever mount twisted and that was the last bike I ever wanted to see the wiring go through the bars again. ymmv.
 
Trials said:
I had a motorcycle with wiring through the bars once. It fell over and the bars bent right where the holes were drilled, half the wires got sheared off when the lever mount twisted and that was the last bike I ever wanted to see the wiring go through the bars again. ymmv.
Click to expand...
Sounds like DIY bars, seen plenty of those. Quality wire-thru-bars are hardened so they don't bend easily, the thru holes are drilled well past the bends to preserve strength, and the controls are pinned so they won't spin and sever wires.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom