Shed
- Thread starter RockerGuy
- Start date
The only problem with that is the possibility of the topsoil as shifting, aa it is not a stable base, in most cases.
One other option that I have it used is 6x6 pt borders, rebared into the ground and nailed together. Filled with gravel, then laid patio slabs on top. Keeps the shed a little elevated for the snow accumulation, with no fear of animals going underneath.
Good point. I never had trouble with them taking residence, but raccoons..... I wish I lived in the countryside where people can just shoot the damn pests (when safe to do so, of course).
Neighbour has skunks under his shed. They always seem to make an appearance at 5 am, as I am loading up my bike. I hightail it back into the garage like a little girl!
Long time. Plus I'm parking the busa in it for the winter, she's a full figured gal.
CanadianBiker
Well-known member
Like a SENSIBLE little girl! Our dog just caught one in the backyard (skunk, not little girl) last week. Got a mouthful of spray, promptly dropped the skunk, ran back into the house and threw up. Much hilarity ensued.
Looks really good. Did you put slots into the concrete? What is the thickness on that?
Edit:
Tapatalk totally deleted my post when I added the picture ?.
-didn't use rebar, based on my dad's advice so that concrete will flex. His has lasted almost 30 years, no cracks. Mine is about 12, no cracks. But did use fiberglass shard infused concrete.
-went with smooth finish rather than texture. Easier to keep clean, imo
I'm surprised it didn't crack with the changing temps
I was planning on putting chicken wire at the bottom to strengthen the concrete
I go bust out the .22
Thanks. Not sure what you mean by "slots"? To secure the shed down? Tapcons in the metal frame base. 2x6 for the form, so about 6" of concrete.
As for the changing temps, that's why I let you know what we did. Works for us.
Another tip: If you go concrete, rough-in liquid-tite, or other conduit to make any future electrical addition easy. I have a fuse panel in there, and a bottled water fridge (I don't drink much beer).
Slots as in spacing in the concrete to allow expansion & contraction. Like what you see in sidewalks. I'm no sure if that's the correct term
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Ah, yes. Not sure of proper name, but I believe their purpose is for controlled cracking. The thought is concrete will eventually crack, so you prep for it, thus not making it look like crap when it does.
No. We did not. The idea was that the base floats, and without rebar/mesh it flexes and avoids the cracks. Again, no stats to back it up, just old Italian immigrant experience by way of my old man.
No machine?
What's the measurements for control lines?
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If there's an engineering formula for control lines I'm not aware of it. Common sense should suffice.
No machine for mixing your own. Home Depot rental mixer only holds 2 bags, not worth the effort. I made a wooden box with angled ends. I cut ends off a rake so it's only 6" across. Mix with rake, no shovel. Put in couple bags, add water to make very thin slurry, dump more bags in until consistency you desire. Mixes 4-6 bags in one shot relatively easy.
Just when I was beginning to think you were of the intelligent group
I'm much too lazy. I hope you rented a hand mixer and not with shovel and wheelbarrow!
Curious, was this for cost or accessibility reasons?
Edit: Just saw above post.
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Various slopes. Build forms, pour concrete, build sloping form from there, pour concrete, build sloping form from there etc. I couldn't see how to do that with one delivered pour. This is between the house and backyard shop on hillside and I needed to funnel the rain water away properly. It was a lot of work. 8 bags per HD run x 2 runs per night after work all week. Concrete pour on weekend. Repeat next week. Every time I walk into the back yard I feel proud and sheepish but it's done and serving as intended.
I hope you're joking?
Wire mesh is the proper term, if you were just guessing? (the chemicals in the crete would probably disintegrate chicken wire in 5 minutes).
Use MESH. It doesn't go on the bottom either. If you do that, the mesh has to be 'raised' during the pour. Or, place the mesh on 'stands' (building supply sells them) or just use rocks. The mesh keeps the concrete together when / if it does crack.
I'm too old for this ****, so I hired a crew last week to do a patio for me. 22' x 16'.
Pressure cuts were made at 8' and two at 7' for the 22' length. One cut on the 16' width - in the middle at 8'.
An 8'x8'x5" slab with mesh for a shed won't need a cut. One down the middle, if it puts a smile on your face, but not cut in 4, as suggested.
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Lol, mesh if that makes you happy. Its just a shed, not going to put wrought iron & rebars.
I'm fully aware of the elevation of the mesh from the ground. Keeps it water tight too. I just didn't want to type out all my plans.
But yeah, concrete has good compression strength but poor tensile strength, thats why steel is generally placed in concrete. That's why they go close to the bottom. As the weight sits on top of it, it would want to flex downward. That's where the tensile strength of steel comes in.
I guess I'll postpone this job until the old man comes over to visit me. Then again he always complain how his body is hurting him
