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Safety wiring questions
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
It's safe to drill through the hex head, but i just drill at the edge, straight down in, then straight in from the side; the holes meet in an "L" shape
Last edited:
Sounds good, that's how I'll do mine. Thanks.
So far, I've drilled 2 holes in each of these:
4 x caliper bolts
3 x banjo bolts
4 x front axle pinch bolts
Oil filler cap
My rear axle is already pinned, and I'll drill holes in the front axle (on the edge), and the oil drain plug. Don't care about rear banjos. What else can I drill? Like, not what's required, but what will be considered as somewhat safety improvement? I'm liking this activity for some reason. I'm yet to break a bit.
4 x caliper bolts
3 x banjo bolts
4 x front axle pinch bolts
Oil filler cap
My rear axle is already pinned, and I'll drill holes in the front axle (on the edge), and the oil drain plug. Don't care about rear banjos. What else can I drill? Like, not what's required, but what will be considered as somewhat safety improvement? I'm liking this activity for some reason. I'm yet to break a bit.
SOAR 2013 DRAFT RULEBOOK
- Snap-on side covers must be securely fastened by safety wire, zip ties or modified to bolt or screw on.- All plugs and fittings with oil or water behind them (this includes oil galley plugs) must be securely fastened and safety wired. A small amount of JB Weld or equivalent sealant may be used in cases where it is impractical to drill fasteners.
- Small diameter (1/4” or smaller) coolant hoses or block off plugs, may be double looped with thick (0.032” or thicker) safety wire, in lieu of clamps.
- Drum brake anchor arm and disk brake caliper mounting fasteners must be safety wired or secured with mechanical locking devices.
- Split washers, star washers and self-locking washers do not count as proper locking devices.
- Drive chain master links must have their spring clip pointing in the direction of chain travel and must be safety wired or have silicone sealant product applied.- All axle nuts must be safety wired. If axle nut has a C-clip, the clip must be safety wired. All axle pinch bolts must be safety wired.
- If front forks have 2 pinch bolts on each side, only one on each side must be safety wired, but only if it is extremely difficult to wire all of them.
- Removable exhaust baffles and/or cores must be safety wired
- Snap-on side covers must be securely fastened by safety wire, zip ties or modified to bolt or screw on.- All plugs and fittings with oil or water behind them (this includes oil galley plugs) must be securely fastened and safety wired. A small amount of JB Weld or equivalent sealant may be used in cases where it is impractical to drill fasteners.
- Small diameter (1/4” or smaller) coolant hoses or block off plugs, may be double looped with thick (0.032” or thicker) safety wire, in lieu of clamps.
- Drum brake anchor arm and disk brake caliper mounting fasteners must be safety wired or secured with mechanical locking devices.
- Split washers, star washers and self-locking washers do not count as proper locking devices.
- Drive chain master links must have their spring clip pointing in the direction of chain travel and must be safety wired or have silicone sealant product applied.- All axle nuts must be safety wired. If axle nut has a C-clip, the clip must be safety wired. All axle pinch bolts must be safety wired.
- If front forks have 2 pinch bolts on each side, only one on each side must be safety wired, but only if it is extremely difficult to wire all of them.
- Removable exhaust baffles and/or cores must be safety wired
Water pump drain bolt, rad cap.
I drilled all my banjo bolts on an angle so the hole comes out the side of the hex. Did the same with other hex head bolts on the bike.
For me the key for drilling was using machinest grade drill bits, and buying short length bits. Bits always snap somewhere on the twist because they are too long, flex and snap. Short drill length are much more rigid and you don't need drill length anyways. That and lots of cutting fluid and you can drill your whole bike with one good bit. I drilled my whole bike freehand on the bike, and didn't remove any fasteners to drill them really.
For me the key for drilling was using machinest grade drill bits, and buying short length bits. Bits always snap somewhere on the twist because they are too long, flex and snap. Short drill length are much more rigid and you don't need drill length anyways. That and lots of cutting fluid and you can drill your whole bike with one good bit. I drilled my whole bike freehand on the bike, and didn't remove any fasteners to drill them really.
You might not care about the rear brake banjo bolts (and caliper mounting bolts), but tech inspection will. Do them.
It's possible that there is a drain bolt in the connecting pipe, if the pipe sits lower than the water pump (my FZR is like that). It's also quite possible that there is no drain bolt, and you're just supposed to pull the hose and let the coolant splash everywhere.
And on that topic ... you have to wire the hose clamps, too. This is a bugger. I don't drill them - they're stainless steel and almost impossible. I wrap a loop of safety wire around the head of the hose clamp then go around the hose clamp to the loose end and wire it to one of the grooves in the clamp.
And on that topic ... you have to wire the hose clamps, too. This is a bugger. I don't drill them - they're stainless steel and almost impossible. I wrap a loop of safety wire around the head of the hose clamp then go around the hose clamp to the loose end and wire it to one of the grooves in the clamp.
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