Rust removal - Gas tank opening | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rust removal - Gas tank opening

First off, this was something I meant to take care of over the summer but due to a wrist injury I couldn't do any work on the bike, let alone ride it ?. It's only now that I can do the work since I have to winterize it and gained a little more wrist strength.

Basically, there's rust on the gas tank opening on my GS500F as per the attached photos. The inside of the tank and the remaining exterior is rust free. I'm planning on removing the tank to work on it but I'm not sure what the best way would be to remove the rust and treat the affected area. Most guides I've come across either cover the inside of the tank or just general body work, but not the tank opening.

So far my plan is this:
  1. Remove tank
  2. Remove cover
  3. Mask area for rust removal
  4. Physical removal via sanding and scraping
  5. Chemical removal by soaking rags and placing them on rusted area
  6. More sanding/polishing
  7. Sealing and painting
  8. Disassemble cover and chemical bath rusted parts
  9. Reassemble everything
Could someone recommend a good rust removing chemical that won't strip off the good paint and a method of sealing the treated space? Heck, any general strategies would be appreciated.

Rusty gallery here:
 
I would start with WD40 and a rag
looks like 90% of that will come off easily

like you said, remove the aluminum ring first
may want to soak that area in WD40 first - those bolts are rusty

then have a go with the rag and WD40
the part where the cap seals could be cleaned with a dremel and cloth buffer pad
this really doesn't look that bad

if it were me I wouldn't even remove the tank for this
 
Evaporust shouldnt harm anything. Not the easiest to use in you application though, it prefers submersion you would have to go for a soaking rag and keep rewetting.
 
I would start with WD40 and a rag
looks like 90% of that will come off easily

like you said, remove the aluminum ring first
may want to soak that area in WD40 first - those bolts are rusty

then have a go with the rag and WD40
the part where the cap seals could be cleaned with a dremel and cloth buffer pad
this really doesn't look that bad

if it were me I wouldn't even remove the tank for this

Here's how it looks like with the cover removed. I used a rag and qtips with WD40 to scrub out as much as possible.

Rust gallery 2:
 
First off, this was something I meant to take care of over the summer but due to a wrist injury I couldn't do any work on the bike, let alone ride it ?. It's only now that I can do the work since I have to winterize it and gained a little more wrist strength.

Basically, there's rust on the gas tank opening on my GS500F as per the attached photos. The inside of the tank and the remaining exterior is rust free. I'm planning on removing the tank to work on it but I'm not sure what the best way would be to remove the rust and treat the affected area. Most guides I've come across either cover the inside of the tank or just general body work, but not the tank opening.

So far my plan is this:
  1. Remove tank
  2. Remove cover
  3. Mask area for rust removal
  4. Physical removal via sanding and scraping
  5. Chemical removal by soaking rags and placing them on rusted area
  6. More sanding/polishing
  7. Sealing and painting
  8. Disassemble cover and chemical bath rusted parts
  9. Reassemble everything
Could someone recommend a good rust removing chemical that won't strip off the good paint and a method of sealing the treated space? Heck, any general strategies would be appreciated.

Rusty gallery here:
Start with something like pbblaster, then use stiff brush and oiled rag to clean it up. That’s all. The rust you see comes from storing the bike key outside and not using it.

If you want it to look better, spray in some rust oleum or tremvlsd rust converter.
 
Solvol Autosol or another fine abrasive polish, with LOTS of elbow grease.
 
still gonna say a dremel with felt pad
put a WD40 dampened cloth in the hole to catch dust

use any of the above listed chemicals
don't see the need for anything as abrasive as a wire wheel

check to see if the drain hose is plugged with crud
I bet it is
 
Thanks everyone. I've taken the gas cap apart and did an initial wash with carburetor cleaner to clean off fuel residue first. I've placed an Amazon order for regular Evaporust to soak the gas cap parts and the gel version of Evaporust to treat the surface. Hopefully I can get this done before it gets too cold. Outdoor storage unfortunately :(

@J_F Now that I'm not removing the tank, I'm very hesitant to use the dremel and risk an electric spark igniting the gas vapour :LOL:. I'll settle with sanding down as much as possible. I'm also anticipating the drain hose to be all clogged up.
 
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You can use a stiff brass brush, coarse steel wool, SOS pads, or a proper (not Dollar store) Green Scotchbrite pad instead of a Dremel. They will work better than sandpaper. Be sure to stuff an oiled rag into the filler to keep junk out of the tank.

The drain can be cleared with mechanic's wire followed by a good blast of compressed air.
 
You can also put the tank upside down in a container and pour in enough Evaporust to cover the rusty part. That should also take care of any rust in the vent and drain holes. But I think Evaporust works best at room temps or higher, so bring it inside for best results.
 
.... Outdoor storage unfortunately :( ...
Fill the tank right to the top over winter, that will reduce condensation buildup inside the tank over the winter, drain it in the spring,
use up the old fuel in your lawn mower or some other motor that eats fuel like crazy and you really don't care so much about. The fuel in the tank is the only thing stopping the inside of the tank from rusting.

Drain hole to stop water from sitting in there? I'm not seeing one unless it's going straight into the tank :(

White vinegar removes rust about as good as anything.
 
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Parts diagram for that bike does indeed indicate a rubber water drain hose coming off the bottom of the gas tank :(
You might want to lower a small light bulb into the tank and see if you can use a dental mirror to take a look around inside there.

That is a serious bad design for a motorcycle that is going to see use in cold climates and by fitting it with a small gas cap made only to appear like a large gas cap opening, access to inspect and repair that drain hose would be near impossible. I'd be way more concerned over the integrity of that water drain pipe that travels through the inside of the tank then the rust you can see from the outside. If that hose is rubber and pushed onto steel spigots where it passes through the steel, the rubber will eventually deteriorate, if it is a steel tube, it is most certainly rusting out from the inside and would split if it ever has ice sitting in it. That would potentially dump most if not all of your fuel on the ground, so you might want to put a catch container under that drain over the winter months.
 
These will remove every last bit of rust on that tank if you have access to a die grinder and compressed air. They come in different sizes and abrasive levels. If I had that tank at work it would look brand new with these tools.


Id just take the tank off and store it inside while you do this as a winter project?

You made that thing look pretty good so far tho by doing what you did, good job!
 
I've cleaned a couple of my tanks with Rust Remover green solution from CT, it worked pretty good. Soak it well, it'll start bubbling, rub well with a cloth, rust should dissolve fast. Rinse with kerosene, absorb excess with cloth, and let it dry for a bit. Keep the stuff away from painted areas outside of the tank, it will dissolve paint too...
 
Thanks again for all the follow-up suggestions. I'm taking bits and pieces and applying what I can here and there.

Here's some progress photos of how the gas cap looks like now. I took it apart and soaked everything in Evaporust. Every hour I would scrub off and wipe the heavily rusted parts with Downy paper towels and soak it back in. Repeated this for almost 4 hours. I'm pretty happy with the results. The hardest part was keeping the plate that holds the key cylinder standing up so that the cylinder doesn't get any liquid in it since I couldn't figure out how to remove it. I got as far as removing the gasket in the rear and a ring underneath it but couldn't go any further. I ended up rotating the plate a few times while wiping off rust.

Yes, there's still a little residue left on the rubber ring but it's minimal at this point that I'm not going to worry about. I could just replace it but it's a bit of a hassle at the moment to find parts. Going to work on the tank tomorrow when it's slightly warmer outside. I'm going to use a fan with a built in heater to warm up the tank and activate the Evaporust gel and keep it from freezing. Hoping this won't produce too much condensation.

Concerning the drain pipe, yes I'm aware it's gunna be a bit of a b!tch to clean it out and remove the rust without taking off the tank. I'm only going to partially lift the tank so I can pull off the hose and clean it out properly. My plan is to clean out the drain pipe with a straw brush, wrap pipe cleaner with paper towel, soak it in Evaporust gel, leave it in there to soak while wiggling and rotating a few times then repeat.

@Trials I've used a USB scope to check out the inside of the tank and it's surprisingly rust free for something so old (2008)

 
Looks better then new.
 
Here's the end result.

The bike's been covered for the past week (which I've already removed) with just the WD40 rag stuffed in the gas tank and the cleanup from when I first started still looked pretty decent with just the WD40 treatment. After lifting up the tank, the problem with the water hose became apparent. The last owner(s) of the bike might have removed the tank at some point and they just shoved it back in place during re-assembly (bought the bike mid-summer). The hose wasn't rotated enough and it pinched above the carb instead of bending around it. In any case, I ran a straw brush through it to clear out as much crap as possible. I first shoved it down from the top and got stuck but managed to push it up from the bottom. Surprisingly there wasn't too much of a blockage but there were some chunks that felt satisfying to push out.


Now that it's prepped to my liking, I jerry rigged the fan heater on the speedo, covered up the tank with some old raggedy sheets to retain as much heat as possible, pulled over whatever large spare cloth I had laying around again to capture said heat, used qtips to stuff the screw holes and water drain, and used a new rag to stuff the gas tank. Hard to explain but check out the next gallery, it's fairly ghetto but worked a treat for working in the cold.

I set the heater to 30C and let things warm up for about 10 minutes. Then I spread the the Evaporust gel with a plastic spoon and used the tip to scrape out rust in the corners and work the gel in. I thought it worked better than a brush and it was easier to control and spread around. The hardest part was applying it on the inner lip without dripping any in the tank. Had to make sure that the rag was tight enough that it wouldn't slip in accidentally but have enough give that you could spoon in just enough gel that it would make contact and get absorbed by the rag. I then twisted the rag left and right a little bit to spread it around the lip and make a seal. In hindsight, I should have tied the end of the rag to a string and secure it from the handlebar or something, kinda like a tea bag or tampon. I checked on it every 20 minutes to make sure it was still liquid enough and not drying off from the heat or solidifying from the cold. I spooned in just a little more each time and scraped the rust around to keep it fresh. After about 1 1/2 hours I carefully wiped off the thick boogery mess with heavy paper towels and cleaned off the surface with a warm wet rag. I can't stress enough to take your time with applying the Evaporust around the lip and cleaning it carefully to prevent crap from going in the tank. All that patience seems to have paid off.


I repeated the same thing for a second round of soaking and replaced the qtips and the rag used to plug the tank. It didn't take off as much as I wanted to but I'm rather satisfied with the results and will revisit this in the summer when the weather is much better. I cleaned everything and ran the straw cleaner a few more times through the water drain, this time soaked in WD40. Reattached the hose properly and it's no longer pinched. Come to think of it, this is probably why it got rusted up in the first place :rolleyes:. Cleaned off the screw holes with WD40 soaked qtips and applied a thin coat of WD40 on the clean surface with a new rag.


Again, it's not perfect but I'm a lot more comfortable storing it away in this shape over the winter and revisit this again in warmer weather with a proper polishing solution, perhaps that Autosol that @TK4 mentioned earlier. I'll finish off the rest of the winterization next weekend. Thanks once more to everyone for all the suggestions and taking time to read through this.

Oh and here's a before and after shot:

 

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