frekeyguy
Well-known member
I don't have sound at work. Did you check to see if your choke circuit injectors in your air box are firing ?
This might be a odd yamaha issue, but very unusual.
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rough idle after full exhaust install
- Thread starter ravensix
- Start date
I don't have sound at work. Did you check to see if your choke circuit injectors in your air box are firing ?
This might be a odd yamaha issue, but very unusual.
Again, this is a very well known issue with AMA builders and I'm sure they're bikes are tuned properly. They're reccomendation is to hold the starter button for a couple seconds after the bike fires. They don't know why it works but does. If you need any references do a search on the WERA board, there's more than enough threads to read and keep you busy for awhile.
SweetOnion
Well-known member
^^ so did you try it yet, OP??
Didnt try anything yet lol.
I just re mapped my pc3. I tried that holding starter button thing, but I think I'm doing it wrong because it just seems like my bike wants to blow up or it wont start properly.
I dont know where to start with the pc3 fine tuning, or who to get to look at it. Going to look on google and youtube etc.
I just re mapped my pc3. I tried that holding starter button thing, but I think I'm doing it wrong because it just seems like my bike wants to blow up or it wont start properly.
I dont know where to start with the pc3 fine tuning, or who to get to look at it. Going to look on google and youtube etc.
How long are you holding it for? 1-2s after the bike fires shouldn't make it sound like it's going to grenade.
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=308368
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=315475
I'm not doing a search but this is recent.
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=308368
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=315475
I'm not doing a search but this is recent.
I have a funny feeling that holding the starter button the couple seconds extra depletes the battery just enough that the alternator has more load on it for a few seconds afterward in order to recharge it, and the extra load on the engine smooths it out.
To the OP - Connect the power commander to your laptop with the PowerCommander software on it using a USB cable. With the software running, start the engine and download the map from the power commander to your laptop (and save it somewhere so that you can go back to what you've got). Go into the fuel map. The software will display the current RPM and throttle position and highlight the cells on the map that it is using. Add a little bit (say, 5) to the numbers in the map at 0% throttle that immediately surround whatever RPM the PowerCommander says that the engine is running at (this will be the map cells that it is using for interpolation). For example, if the engine is running at 1680 rpm, add 5 to the cells for 0% throttle 1500 rpm and 1750 rpm. Upload the modified map to the PowerCommander and see if it makes a difference. It is really easy.
For what it's worth, the unstable idle during warm-up is not harmful, just mildly irritating, and it won't cause driveability issues, particularly if it runs fine when warm. It would not be unreasonable to simply ignore the unstable idle.
To the OP - Connect the power commander to your laptop with the PowerCommander software on it using a USB cable. With the software running, start the engine and download the map from the power commander to your laptop (and save it somewhere so that you can go back to what you've got). Go into the fuel map. The software will display the current RPM and throttle position and highlight the cells on the map that it is using. Add a little bit (say, 5) to the numbers in the map at 0% throttle that immediately surround whatever RPM the PowerCommander says that the engine is running at (this will be the map cells that it is using for interpolation). For example, if the engine is running at 1680 rpm, add 5 to the cells for 0% throttle 1500 rpm and 1750 rpm. Upload the modified map to the PowerCommander and see if it makes a difference. It is really easy.
For what it's worth, the unstable idle during warm-up is not harmful, just mildly irritating, and it won't cause driveability issues, particularly if it runs fine when warm. It would not be unreasonable to simply ignore the unstable idle.
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NOOOOOOO
Only on the cells that immediately surround the idling condition.
"For example, if the engine is running at 1680 rpm, add 5 to the cells for 0% throttle 1500 rpm and 1750 rpm"
How hard was that to understand?? You are only to change TWO cells. Both in the 0% throttle column. Only the one immediately below the RPM at which it exhibits this symptom, and the one immediately above the RPM at which it exhibits this symptom.
I don't know how you got your sentence from my initial explanation.
Only on the cells that immediately surround the idling condition.
"For example, if the engine is running at 1680 rpm, add 5 to the cells for 0% throttle 1500 rpm and 1750 rpm"
How hard was that to understand?? You are only to change TWO cells. Both in the 0% throttle column. Only the one immediately below the RPM at which it exhibits this symptom, and the one immediately above the RPM at which it exhibits this symptom.
I don't know how you got your sentence from my initial explanation.
LOL, sorry. I was in a hurry and skimmed through it and remembered watching a video of the +/20 from 750-18.000 someone doing it and said to mess with it until its smooth and not to worry about going up to 20
I just realized that there is one other possible way you could screw up. It's possible that this is happening only during fast-idle when cold, and that means it's possible that the change has to be made in the 2% column and not the 0% column. But this is easy to figure out.
With the engine running (and displaying the symptom) note both the RPM and the throttle position on the PowerCommander display. If indicated throttle position is 0%, do what I explained first (in the 0% column). If indicated throttle position is 2%, do what I explained in the 2% column rather than the 0% column. If indicated throttle position is 1%, do that adjustment in both the 0% and 2% columns.
This is NOT that hard. But try to understand, not mis-understand!
With the engine running (and displaying the symptom) note both the RPM and the throttle position on the PowerCommander display. If indicated throttle position is 0%, do what I explained first (in the 0% column). If indicated throttle position is 2%, do what I explained in the 2% column rather than the 0% column. If indicated throttle position is 1%, do that adjustment in both the 0% and 2% columns.
This is NOT that hard. But try to understand, not mis-understand!
This is going to take a while to figure it all out, since it only happens wen it's "Temp Lo" start up.
So once I start it up with adjusting power commander, it warms up in about 1 min. Than I have to shut it down and wait like an hour befor it gets backto " Temp LO"
Than repeat until I get it better.
So once I start it up with adjusting power commander, it warms up in about 1 min. Than I have to shut it down and wait like an hour befor it gets backto " Temp LO"
Than repeat until I get it better.
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