rough idle after full exhaust install | GTAMotorcycle.com

rough idle after full exhaust install

ravensix

ravensix

Well-known member
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Hey guys, I recently installed a full Graves works stainless steel exhaust onto my 2007 R6 and I downloaded a map from Power Commanders website.

The map that shows up on the pc3 control panel says its based for a R6 2006. I dont know if this is the cause of my issue....


When I start up the bike on a cold start (temp Lo). The bike has a ruff idle almost sounds like "wub wub wub wub wub wub..."


And it continues on like that for a minute or two until the bike gets up to around 109f than it stops and smooths it self out.


Any ideas or suggestions on how to sort this out?
 
This is going to sound crazy but hold the starter button longer, a second or so after the bike fires. This is a known issue with the R6 and this is the fix. No explination, nobody knows, it just works.
 
Or get your ECU flashed and sell the power commander.
 
dricked said:
This is going to sound crazy but hold the starter button longer, a second or so after the bike fires. This is a known issue with the R6 and this is the fix. No explination, nobody knows, it just works.
Click to expand...


Interesting Lol I will give this a try.
 
carboncat said:
My 06 r1 same thing. It's ok
Click to expand...


Lol It gets a little annoying after. I'll start my bike up on a cold start and it gets all like dub step with the "wub wub wub wub wub"

But like someone mentioned about flashing ecu, Word on the streets is theres a guy in Whitby that does this for 80$

And apprently so many good things come from flashing ecu, so I might give it a shot. I'll report back with details once I do this.
 
carboncat said:
Yep that's jamie (TAFB) on here
Click to expand...

Interesting lol, why am I just finding out about him now?!

Just in 2 days I heard of him on r6 forum, I seen his kijiji add, I heard of him from some dude randomly talking to bikes with the other night, And now even on this forum LOL
 
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Your best bet is to get the mapping sorted out using the PowerCommander - you can take your time fine-tuning it - and then once you have a map that you are happy with, you can have your ECU re-flashed with the stock mapping adjusted by your map, then remove the PowerCommander. The point above ^ is an important one. A reflashed stock ECU will be just as reliable (internally) as stock. PowerCommanders add lots more failure points ...

As for the unstable idling, a lot of bikes do that. Take a look at the active cells that the PowerCommander is using at idle (it is probably interpolating between 1250 rpm and 1500 rpm and 0% throttle - unless it is happening straight away at a slightly higher speed). Go ahead and fiddle with the cells that it is using while it is doing that. Try adding 10% more fuel, if that has no effect then try taking away 10% from the original settings. If it's only happening during warm-up, it's likely a lean condition.

Somewhere inside that ECU (and don't bother asking me where - all I know is that it's there), is a warm-up compensation map. (PowerCommander does not have access to it, it has no knowledge of the engine temperature.) If you can sort out the idle by playing with the power commander settings (but it will now be too rich when warm) then the right solution is to apply those changes to the warm-up compensation map, not the main fuel map ... But don't be surprised if very few aftermarket "tuners" know about this!

Aftermarket tuning-boxes - PC and Bazzaz both have the same situation - work poorly at low revs and small throttle openings. They don't have enough resolution in the maps. With my ZX10R, idle, 50 km/h steady cruise in higher gears, gentle acceleration in lower gears, and shut-throttle coasting can all be done at 0% throttle according to the PowerCommander yet the engine loading conditions are clearly different. No wonder you're never going to get it perfect down there. (The OEM maps in the original ECU have far higher resolution - and they map it using the MAP sensor at low revs, it's more accurate)
 
That R6 should have a O2 sensor where the catalytic convertor used to be. Did you remove that O2 sensor ? or has been installed in the O2 exhaust bung?


The O2 should help it run in a closed loop system, which should make the motor way smoother / predictable / efficient.
 
Brian P said:
Your best bet is to get the mapping sorted out using the PowerCommander - you can take your time fine-tuning it - and then once you have a map that you are happy with, you can have your ECU re-flashed with the stock mapping adjusted by your map, then remove the PowerCommander. The point above ^ is an important one. A reflashed stock ECU will be just as reliable (internally) as stock. PowerCommanders add lots more failure points ...

As for the unstable idling, a lot of bikes do that. Take a look at the active cells that the PowerCommander is using at idle (it is probably interpolating between 1250 rpm and 1500 rpm and 0% throttle - unless it is happening straight away at a slightly higher speed). Go ahead and fiddle with the cells that it is using while it is doing that. Try adding 10% more fuel, if that has no effect then try taking away 10% from the original settings. If it's only happening during warm-up, it's likely a lean condition.

Somewhere inside that ECU (and don't bother asking me where - all I know is that it's there), is a warm-up compensation map. (PowerCommander does not have access to it, it has no knowledge of the engine temperature.) If you can sort out the idle by playing with the power commander settings (but it will now be too rich when warm) then the right solution is to apply those changes to the warm-up compensation map, not the main fuel map ... But don't be surprised if very few aftermarket "tuners" know about this!

Aftermarket tuning-boxes - PC and Bazzaz both have the same situation - work poorly at low revs and small throttle openings. They don't have enough resolution in the maps. With my ZX10R, idle, 50 km/h steady cruise in higher gears, gentle acceleration in lower gears, and shut-throttle coasting can all be done at 0% throttle according to the PowerCommander yet the engine loading conditions are clearly different. No wonder you're never going to get it perfect down there. (The OEM maps in the original ECU have far higher resolution - and they map it using the MAP sensor at low revs, it's more accurate)
Click to expand...


Holy.. so it is actually quite normal for a bike to idle like crap after having full exhaust done? and people just learn to accept it?
I would mess around with my pc3 but im afraid to really mess it up lol or my bike. I haven't really played around with it too much to know exactly what Im doing yet.

I was 90% set on getting my ecu flashed, from all the "positive" things it does... but I guess I'll try to sort it out my self first. Thanks great info!
 
frekeyguy said:
That R6 should have a O2 sensor where the catalytic convertor used to be. Did you remove that O2 sensor ? or has been installed in the O2 exhaust bung?


The O2 should help it run in a closed loop system, which should make the motor way smoother / predictable / efficient.
Click to expand...


The bike came with a different exhaust set up wen I got it, the o2 has been removed from previous guy.
 
Don't miss on what Brian had said also, about still getting it flashed. What you want to do is get the bike tuned - after you get it running good with the Power Commander, you get it flashed with the changes in the power commander applied to your ECU's map.


ravensix said:
Holy.. so it is actually quite normal for a bike to idle like crap after having full exhaust done? and people just learn to accept it?
I would mess around with my pc3 but im afraid to really mess it up lol or my bike. I haven't really played around with it too much to know exactly what Im doing yet.

I was 90% set on getting my ecu flashed, from all the "positive" things it does... but I guess I'll try to sort it out my self first. Thanks great info!
Click to expand...
 
SweetOnion said:
Don't miss on what Brian had said also, about still getting it flashed. What you want to do is get the bike tuned - after you get it running good with the Power Commander, you get it flashed with the changes in the power commander applied to your ECU's map.
Click to expand...


First step is to play with power commander to get the bike running good - Than get someone to tune it for me - Than after these 2 steps, I get ECU flashed?
 
ravensix said:
The bike came with a different exhaust set up wen I got it, the o2 has been removed from previous guy.
Click to expand...

ravensix said:
First step is to play with power commander to get the bike running good - Than get someone to tune it for me - Than after these 2 steps, I get ECU flashed?
Click to expand...

Don't understand why you would want to run that bike in an open loop system.

Bazzaz should still be making a closed loop self tuning (auto - tune) system for that bike. The 02 sensor will continually monitor exhaust gases and modulate the motor to compensate for atmospheric changes.

Unless the closed loop bazzaz wouldn't modulate the cold idle ?
 
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frekeyguy said:
Don't understand why you would want to run that bike in an open loop system.

Bazzaz should still be making a closed loop self tuning (auto - tune) system for that bike. The 02 sensor will continually monitor exhaust gases and modulate the motor to compensate for atmospheric changes.

Unless the closed loop bazzaz wouldn't modulate the cold idle ?
Click to expand...


Beats me. I dont really know these things LOL. But check it out, R6 dub step music lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsH_jKulepo

Just made a quick video to show you guys how it starts up.
 
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