If you're still using T4 CT has it on sale beginning Friday for $100 a pail. Last time I purchased a pail it was about $60. Even at the new inflated price it is still a great deal per L if you're OK using it.
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Rotella T4 on Sale at CT
- Thread starter ReSTored
- Start date
TLDR; probably a very long time
AllistonGT
Well-known member
I don't believe there is one.
Just cuz....
In the 50 years I have been wrenching and riding bikes, I have never seen a bike that Rotella oil meets the specs for.
Bob the oil guy is not a very good source for information about oil.
If you want to learn about oil from someone without an agenda: sign up at Wearcheck and go to one of their oil "boot camps". The "boot camps" are free and provide a free lunch. You don't have to BUY anything, the only thing they sell is oil analysis.
... and before you start: A JASO MA/MA2 rating DOES NOT make it "motorcycle oil". The MA rating is ONE test out of hundreds done to rate oil.
You learn stuff like that at oil "boot camp"
I used to use Rotella T4 as "break in oil" (cheapest oil out there) to break in motors on the dyno. When you're finished with break in, drain the oil and fill with spec oil. The only thing changed was the oil. EVERY motor had more HP with spec oil. EVERY motor.
Rotella is CHEAP oil, Rotella is not GOOD oil.
In the 50 years I have been wrenching and riding bikes, I have never seen a bike that Rotella oil meets the specs for.
Bob the oil guy is not a very good source for information about oil.
If you want to learn about oil from someone without an agenda: sign up at Wearcheck and go to one of their oil "boot camps". The "boot camps" are free and provide a free lunch. You don't have to BUY anything, the only thing they sell is oil analysis.
... and before you start: A JASO MA/MA2 rating DOES NOT make it "motorcycle oil". The MA rating is ONE test out of hundreds done to rate oil.
You learn stuff like that at oil "boot camp"
I used to use Rotella T4 as "break in oil" (cheapest oil out there) to break in motors on the dyno. When you're finished with break in, drain the oil and fill with spec oil. The only thing changed was the oil. EVERY motor had more HP with spec oil. EVERY motor.
Rotella is CHEAP oil, Rotella is not GOOD oil.
The shoulder angel & devil are having a fistfight over whether I should get drawn into this again. However...
I believe this statement. That said, if you had any numbers to share I would be curious to see them
I believe this statement. That said, if you had any numbers to share I would be curious to see them
T4 is 15w40, so it wouldn't be surprising at all that an engine makes more power using something else.
Making more power <> less wear; just because it makes more power doesn't mean it's wearing less, and vice versa. A number of racing oils are 30-weight or 20-weight; doesn't mean the engine will live a long life in street use. It's rather unlikely that any street-ridden engine will fail prematurely using any motor oil that is somewhere in the vicinity of the correct viscosity regardless of whether it is "motorcycle oil" or not.
Lately I've been using Castrol Syntec 5w50 from Canadian Tire, after Motul motorcycle oils went crazy expensive. It is not "energy conserving" (that's only on 30-weight and below motor oils) and there have not been any clutch-compatibility issues, and nothing has blown up.
Making more power <> less wear; just because it makes more power doesn't mean it's wearing less, and vice versa. A number of racing oils are 30-weight or 20-weight; doesn't mean the engine will live a long life in street use. It's rather unlikely that any street-ridden engine will fail prematurely using any motor oil that is somewhere in the vicinity of the correct viscosity regardless of whether it is "motorcycle oil" or not.
Lately I've been using Castrol Syntec 5w50 from Canadian Tire, after Motul motorcycle oils went crazy expensive. It is not "energy conserving" (that's only on 30-weight and below motor oils) and there have not been any clutch-compatibility issues, and nothing has blown up.
I was talking to Ray Barton (NHRA Super Stock guy) about Mopar Super Stock 383 motors. He tells me he can find 15 HP, just in oil control. 15 HP is a LOT.
I called BS.
We gave him the motor and he found 18HP, just with oil system changes.
probably the cheapest 18 HP we ever bought. I am now a big fan of oil control.
I called BS.
We gave him the motor and he found 18HP, just with oil system changes.
probably the cheapest 18 HP we ever bought. I am now a big fan of oil control.
Okay, but "oil control" covers a lot more than using 15w40 over 10w40
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I started using Rotella in a Rabbit Diesel, found it worked on everything.
Perhaps I’ve been lucky, but I’ve used it since 1978 and never had an oil related failure. A4 went 500k before the suspension retired her, XJ6 had 300k Miles and running strong, Jeep Commander still tight at 400k. But probably the best test is in my marine stuff. Sold my last boat with 2500hrs on engines, 360 /300hp Chryslers still running strong.
I’m not looking for 10hp oil edge, just the peace of mind that my stuff will run dependably. I always change oil at 7500km (150hrs on boats). or once a season.
Rotella has served me well. Perhaps any oil would have done same.
Perhaps I’ve been lucky, but I’ve used it since 1978 and never had an oil related failure. A4 went 500k before the suspension retired her, XJ6 had 300k Miles and running strong, Jeep Commander still tight at 400k. But probably the best test is in my marine stuff. Sold my last boat with 2500hrs on engines, 360 /300hp Chryslers still running strong.
I’m not looking for 10hp oil edge, just the peace of mind that my stuff will run dependably. I always change oil at 7500km (150hrs on boats). or once a season.
Rotella has served me well. Perhaps any oil would have done same.
I bought T4 15w-40 by the pail for 18 years. IMO good non synthetic oil and super value for my 2002 ST100 designed in 1989-90. In following ST1100 and ST1300 forums for years not a single person, ever, had an oil related engine issue. ST engines are renown for their long life. My bike had 140,000 KM on it when sold and other forum members had anywhere from 100,000 up to 300,000 - 400,000 km on their bikes, no issues.
For my Tracer I used up my T4 pail and then got a great deal on Motul 5100 semi synthetic so I stocked up on that.
As long as you use JASO MA/MA2 oil can anyone point to a well documented case where a person who rode on the street who changed their oil and filter on a regular basis, say twice a season, ever had an engine failure due to the poor quality of the oil they were using?
For my Tracer I used up my T4 pail and then got a great deal on Motul 5100 semi synthetic so I stocked up on that.
As long as you use JASO MA/MA2 oil can anyone point to a well documented case where a person who rode on the street who changed their oil and filter on a regular basis, say twice a season, ever had an engine failure due to the poor quality of the oil they were using?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Probably not.
Small quibble but T4 has not existed for 18 years. I believe it was rolled out in 2016 to meet the new API CK-4 standard
Well.......... I used the 15W-40 non-synthetic Rotella, whatever it was called.
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