Rotella not all that?

dricked said:
Other than m.benn84 with an actual tear down and inspection I keep hearing "my bike works perfect". Well it either runs or it doesn't. Just because your bike hasn't blown up in xxxxxxkm while using an oil doesn't mean it's a great oil. Tear the bike down and look at your main/rod bearings, look at your cam journals, and cylinder walls. That will tell you if your choice of oil is keeping your motor "working perfect".

I tried the t6 in my street bike and it started to shift horribly after 1000km. I use it in my diesel truck and I'm trying it in my car to see if I stop having consumption issues (wrx, it's sorta normal). I've been using the euro formula castrol syn for years but after 2000km it starts to disappear pretty quick. I use Motul in my race bikes as many engine builders reccomend it so that's good enough for me.
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I've sent out T6 to a lab to get it tested, along with other oils. Doesn't get any more scientific than that. No wear, not much viscosity break down. Good detergent package.

For the price it's a good oil, but not the best.

I can post the results if you want
 
RockerGuy said:
I've sent out T6 to a lab to get it tested, along with other oils. Doesn't get any more scientific than that. No wear, not much viscosity break down. Good detergent package.

For the price it's a good oil, but not the best.

I can post the results if you want
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T6 has no detergents afaik


And yeah dricked is right "works great" is kind of silly...but when I used it the bike shifted smoothly and never blew up under basically extreme use
 
For those of you using Rotella T6 on your track bikes, how often do you change the oil? I've been using T6 on the street for years and occasionally on the track, just not sure what would be a safe oil change interval for the track... Last few years I've run Motul 300V for the track and have changed the oil every 4-5 track days with no issues, not sure if I'd have to shorten the interval if I were to use T6 only for the track.
 
kellen said:
T6 has no detergents afaik


And yeah dricked is right "works great" is kind of silly...but when I used it the bike shifted smoothly and never blew up under basically extreme use
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All good oil has a detergent package unless you're running motomaster. This is used to neutralize the acidity from combustion & prevent sludge from forming
 
Rossi86 said:
For those of you using Rotella T6 on your track bikes, how often do you change the oil? I've been using T6 on the street for years and occasionally on the track, just not sure what would be a safe oil change interval for the track... Last few years I've run Motul 300V for the track and have changed the oil every 4-5 track days with no issues, not sure if I'd have to shorten the interval if I were to use T6 only for the track.
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I drop 300V after a race weekend filter is every other oil change. If it were track days it would be every other day. Rotella I'd dump every weekend, it's cheap.

I've never done an oil analysis. Would it show that you've got scoring happening even if it's a small amount that compounds over time?

I'll keep using it in my truck even though it's developed the diesel tic after switching to it. I don't know what was in it when I bought it but the truck was much quiter. Checked the car lastnight, it doesn't like it any better and it's consuming it sooner so back to 5-40 syntec.
 
Dino Rotella T in the ol' FJ. It made shifting - especially 1st to 2nd - a lot smoother. No idea what Rosey Toes put in it when I had the bike safetied/looked over but Rotella felt like a significant upgrade.
 
I run Rotella T 15w40 in my k8 Gsxr1000, put 10,000km on it last summer and just opened up the motor and its clean as a whistle. I have no shifting issues at all and saves me a whole lot of money then what I used to spend per oil change on my Gsxr600 with Motul synthetic! A whole season of changes on my 1000 was just a little bit more then the price of what i was paying every time i did a single oil change on my 600. I also do a change every 3600km because its cheap oil may aswell play it safe but thats my personal opinion.
 
RockerGuy said:
I've sent out T6 to a lab to get it tested, along with other oils. Doesn't get any more scientific than that. No wear, not much viscosity break down. Good detergent package.

For the price it's a good oil, but not the best.

I can post the results if you want
Click to expand...

Please post. I am very interested


"If i was educated, I'd be a damn fool"
 
I know some 60+ year old guys that use castrol gsxr car oil in their bikes and they swear buy it. Appearantly they never had problems.


"If i was educated, I'd be a damn fool"
 
zuk-r said:
I run Rotella T 15w40 in my k8 Gsxr1000, put 10,000km on it last summer and just opened up the motor and its clean as a whistle. I have no shifting issues at all and saves me a whole lot of money then what I used to spend per oil change on my Gsxr600 with Motul synthetic! A whole season of changes on my 1000 was just a little bit more then the price of what i was paying every time i did a single oil change on my 600. I also do a change every 3600km because its cheap oil may aswell play it safe but thats my personal opinion.
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If you change your oil often the motor will stay clean, sort of. When you say "opened up" does that mean taking the valve cover off or taking the head off? The 15-40 might be a bit thick when it's cold depending on how early/late in the season you ride.

My car gets overly frequent oil changes and at 220,000km the oil is still golden yellow with 1500-2000km after a change when checking the level.
 
cbcanada said:
Please post. I am very interested


"If i was educated, I'd be a damn fool"
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Sorry, I didn't had the chance to get back to you on this one. I'm never on the computer these days and today everything coincide so I'll post...

GSXR750.jpg

GSXR-2ndtest.jpg


Normally a key is provided with the results so you can better interpret the results. But its been a while & I'll try to interpret what;s going on.

The very top row on the table is the amount of mileage put on by me, in my case it was 10k km.
There is different wear on different metals, a large concentration of a certain metal indicates a certain amount of wear in a certain area. Like bearings for instance have a high amount of Molybdenum. High conc. of this in your oil means your bearing are wearing out etc. Gotta look at the key for this. Potassium & calcium represents the detergent in the oil.

But what we can gather from this test is that T6 has a good detergent package, this is used to neutralize acidity in the oil & fuel burnoff. There is no wear to the internals of my engine after 10k. However, there is viscosity breakdown, look at the last four rows. Meaning it did not fare well with the high rpm of the engine. A high rpm engine will shred the viscosity of the oil.

In summary, good oil for the $$ but not the best oil.
 
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