Riding Down Under - Tropical Cairns Australia | Page 29 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Riding Down Under - Tropical Cairns Australia

Long time in the saddle today and was chilly nearly the whole ride.
Should have sat in the sun when lunching. Need to pack a second layer.
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    2.01.26 AM.jpg

The road from Ravenshoe to the Tully Gorge was a good exercise for me but slow going. I was just on the other side of the Gorge the other day coming up from Tully.
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    4.22.47 AM.jpg
Gorgeous rain forest - unforested as the terrain so far too rugged
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    4.27.19 AM.jpg
but even pavement and narrow road with the occasional errant tourist treating it as one way really had to pay attention but most pulled into the grass verge. The last KM was wet but easy dirt double track .. bike was fine but next tires will get something with a bit of off pavement tread.
The Tully Falls used to be spectacular but the hydro dam has taken that away,.
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    4.24.24 AM.jpg
not a shadow of the former flow.Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    4.26.42 AM.jpg


It was 16km further to the Koombooloo Dam also dirt double track and it was getting late so left it for another day.
Was tired but exhilarated as the main road was fast and twisty and getting more familiar with the handling.
The bridge over the Barron is single lane and I filtered to the front and got a jump on the 5 pm traffic so had a 100% clear run down to Cairns through the twists - can't every recall that before. Good chance to push the bike/me a bit. So much extra confidence from having ABS.

The ride up the Gillies in the morning was also much fun as almost no traffic and the bottom half dry and good stick....used to be rife with tar snakes but that's all fixed. Top half in the morning was damp and green moss I'm still nervous with. Not sure how slippery it is on pavement.
My damaged rotator cuff reminds me everyday how slippery on a forest track.
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    3.41.17 AM.jpg

I'd been warned about it but forgot when we got turned back by a giant tree across the track. Ken is 6'1" and barely visible on the right. So downhill , light rain and my jacket not done up ..... :( = permanent injury.
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    3.44.41 AM.jpg
but what a monster tree, :eek:
Screen Shot 2021-07-03 at Jul, 3    2021    3.43.36 AM.jpg
I did do that track as one of the last rides on KLR a couple weeks back. Not sure about it on the CB300F. Certainly want better tires for it.

So the KM on a similar track to the Tully Lookout was a nice little tip toe with the CB300 and street tires. Did okay and the ABS was nice to have.
 
Last edited:
Near on 400 km today ....got out earlier. About 7 hours riding including a VERY short stretch of washboard gravel that prompted a turn around for home short of Chillagoe by about 30 km.
Had a pie at the Railway Hotel.

It's Show day last Monday - pics soon
 
Heading to Palmer River Roadhouse tomorrow - will be longest yet 420 km out and back with a variation on the way home.
This the region ....was a booming gold mining area. I was blown away reading it...then going to the area.

River of Gold is a terrific read
The Wild Days of the Palmer River Gold Rush

"What with cannibal blacks, pig-tailed Chinamen in thousands, lynch-law hangings, gambling dens, shanty towns, murders, grog-shops and Italian opera singers, the Palmer River Goldfields - properly spun out - should provide enough television material for general exhibition for the next ten years. This one book, River of Gold, could easily be used as the jumping-off ground for the lot. Read it with Hector Holthouse; he will be your guide; he has loved every minute of it, and so will you!"

-Canberra Times

"The gold rush at Plamer River, on Cape York, lasted about seven years in the 1870s, but with 35,000 diggers it was this country′s wildest while it lasted. Holthouse has researched the story of those days well to make a lively and very readable book."

-The Bulletin

Test of the new gear...a bit concerned that the new helmet is noisy at speed. Might even take my old one along.
Pants are great
New textile jacket a bit on the thin side but then hard to read with the CE armour which is so thin. Fit and features good. will be warmer than the mesh.
Will be a much better test on a long ride. Taking layers as cooler on the Tableland and might have minor rain.

I got some wonderful bird photos there a few years back. Not so much last time tho. Apostle bird ...my photo ...eating lunch and tossing bread to them
Screen Shot 2021-08-13 at Aug, 13    2021    9.07.21 PM.jpg
they cuddle together along a branch. ( not my photo )
1628852997480.png
 
Best laid plans ....raining now
But if I time it right and scamper up the range road should be fine.

Tiny bit wet....dry and a bit too warm at Palmer River. Fast run with the wind ...gonna be slower heading back. Helmet noise is realllllllly annoying ...

Grabbed a milkshake and and Anzac cookie. Ate my little can of baked beans in the shady back yard. Birds were having a fine old time raiding the picnic table next to me.
Screen Shot 2021-08-16 at Aug, 16    2021    7.41.37 PM.jpg

Hillarious stop on the way up at Mount Carbine. Real red neck country,

1629108872323.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Supplier is letting me return the helmet (y) Not 100% sure they will accept but only $12.50 shipping to find out and I can apply credit to tires I need. Fingers crossed. That was NOT a pleasant ride and I've run out of Howard Leigh earplugs -spares not arriving until Sept 1 :(

This worked the charm tho - now the CB300F is only 150 kg ..mostly easy to assemble tho one threaded bolt was stiff but there is no need to adjust again and the other side is easy to move. Minor niggle.
The bike lifted easily and came down easily.
1629105353201.png

This also was an easy job once I figured out where to position on my crowded handle bar. Worked instantly.
Screen Shot 2021-08-16 at Aug, 16    2021    7.28.19 PM.jpg

This is useful as well. Nice bright light, emergency red flashing light, long cable. Put a 12volt socket under the seat.
Screen Shot 2021-08-16 at Aug, 16    2021    7.29.03 PM.jpg

Need a rear tire soon ...looks like Michelin Pilot Street Radial are best choice. Was hoping for an e07 set but no luck on sizes.
 
Uploaded the Mount Carbine Hotel pics I took on the way to Palmer River. Some very interesting details in the pics

The large bottles are called Territory stubbies....hard drinkers in the hinterlands,
Screen Shot 2021-08-16 at Aug, 16    2021    10.47.40 PM.jpg

No idea what that giant mutt is. Collection of ammo....I'm going to go back up with the camera and get more detailed shots. I just used the iPhone. 90 kg pig !!!!
Screen Shot 2021-08-16 at Aug, 16    2021    10.52.36 PM.jpg

Didgeridoos for sale
Screen Shot 2021-08-16 at Aug, 16    2021    10.59.13 PM.jpg

This is the sound ...complete with eye candy.

Much fun
 
Got the second pair of HWK pants today for $37 - they are the cooler version, not waterproof with mesh panels ....knew I was taking a small risk with the waist size. They fit but just. Went to return, got approved, turns out Amazon.au has no return shipping point in Cairns so they just refunded me the money and I keep the pants. :giggle:

Actually tried them with the waist adjustment completely disconnected and they do fit ...will wear for around the house for a while to get them to stretch a bit. Have mesh panels in the thighs, shins and back of the knees which will make them much cooler. Only two pockets which is fine.
Half length zippers if you wear tall boots. CE knee and hip armour. They fit slimmer as well

Like the striping and viz aspects.
1629328715035.png

They are no where near as good a pant as these which I'm very happy with in the lower temps this time of year and the feature set. Fantastic value.
1629328807420.png
Now just hoping the refund comes through on the helmet......ended up shipping my C3 to Cairns for $25 via slow boat.
 
Last edited:
Got the lighter HWK pants and tried them today in 29C weather ...coolest gear yet.

Came across this about the Gillies. 800m climb in 19 km and 200+ curves,

Which is the Toughest? — Truckin with Kermie

Recap: Riding the Gillies Highway, North Qld, Australia | ScooterFile
 
Uploaded the Mount Carbine Hotel pics I took on the way to Palmer River. Some very interesting details in the pics

The large bottles are called Territory stubbies....hard drinkers in the hinterlands,
View attachment 50553

No idea what that giant mutt is. Collection of ammo....I'm going to go back up with the camera and get more detailed shots. I just used the iPhone. 90 kg pig !!!!
View attachment 50554

Didgeridoos for sale
View attachment 50555

This is the sound ...complete with eye candy.

Much fun
Dog looks like a neapolitan mastiff. And the Zena pic is awesome lmao.
 
Thanks for reminding me - will day trip up there with the camera,
Got my TPMS set up for the trip to B-in-laws. Compressor worked the charm to top off.

 
love the chickie on the didjeriedoo

did I white-dude the spelling for you upside down people?
 
Soft grey day in Palm Cove.
1630382751293.png
28 in town but much cooler along the Pacific. Neat EV skateboards along the walkway ...people and bicycles.
Many upscale eateries and hotels. Parking spots tricky cept for the bike ...parked it right beside a picnic table on the waterfront.
Picked up 9pc of KFC for $10 - pigged on the wings and back and five meaty pcs left for lunches.. Bike getting better mileage now I'm in control of tire pressure but fuel prices up to $1.50 a liter. Glad the days are back under 30.
Sometimes have to pinch myself ...so beautiful here.
Too weird ....it's foggy but no rain along the coast but ...some sort of orthogenic rain fall as the onshore wind hits the range.
Screen Shot 2021-08-31 at Aug, 31    2021    2.16.05 PM.jpg
Hoping I stay dry but still want to find out if the HWK jacket is waterproof.
 
Last edited:
Good ride up across the Daintree. 300 klicks round trip plus the ferry. Gets pretty remote north of the ferry. No power other than generators. Pic soon.
Checked the the chain when I got back and that adhesive lube really worked. 1,000 km since application and looked perfect. Easy on no drip and simply stayed there.
1630918549052.png
of course I left the cover off...wasn't going to rain.Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    4.33.25 AM.jpg
Wrong. No big deal ...sun is actually more damaging than rain here.
seat will dry before I head out. Pants are waterproof anyways. Will stop in a couple of hours ( its 4.30 am ).
Cheap KFC today ....9pcs $10...= 3 lunches. 🥴
 
Last edited:
Daintree pics.
New croc warning at the ferry.

Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    4.39.36 AM.jpg

Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    4.42.04 AM.jpg
I must admit I was being a bit casual when I was fishing at the Mowbray the other day. Was later told in no uncertain terms by family members not to be.
Lost a lure on those rocks and very briefly thought about fetching it as I would in Lake Erie.... 🥴

Crocs can be anywhere across the Daintree as they inhabit both fresh and saltwater..... And further south as well, even in the Cairns estuary so I have to be careful anywhere except with landlocked lakes like Lake Tineraoo.

Had a straight run across the ferry to the end of the pavement and they let bikes go first plus was early in the day so missed the Sunday rush. Very enjoyable ride as stiff tailwind going north. No cassorwaries tho they are in the area and the speed bumps to slow traffic are fun on the bike but rough on cars tho the CB300 does not cross them quite as effortlessly as the KLR.
Was lowest tide I'd seen in this area.
Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    5.15.51 AM.jpg

Some new birds too.Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    4.43.25 AM.jpg
Taking advantage of the largess.The snail was pretty active hunting his little pool.
Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    5.11.54 AM.jpg
Lovely remote tropical beach with apex predators roaming the creeks and ocean ...just don't go in the water.
Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    5.28.38 AM.jpg
Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    5.11.02 AM.jpg
The tourist hordes were just starting to turn back toward Cairns. These Jucy vans are always fun and irreverent.Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    5.24.33 AM.jpg
Managed to beat the retreat and only 6 vehicles on the return ferry.
Windy ride back home but deep into my audio book and old helmet was quiet enough....was very glad to get a refund.
Got my new rear tire Michelin Street Pilot and replacement visor today.....better use of funds.

Relaxing enjoyable day. Bike is using no oil and the chain stayed well lubed and tire pressures stable.

Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    5.19.09 AM.jpg

Screen Shot 2021-09-07 at Sep, 7    2021    5.27.59 AM.jpg
so should be good for the 400 km ride to bro-in law in the south .....will see what the weather holds.
 
Last edited:
Very windy day - went down to Yarrabah an indigenous community on the coast with some of the steepest paved roads I'd seen. Bit of downshifting on the 300 for sure.

There is a controversy going on about a pygmie sized indigenous group within historical record and since there are such in New Guinea just to the north

1631037439367.png
Joseph Birdsell, height 186 centimetres (six feet one inch), with twenty-four-year-old male of the Kongkandji tribe, height 140 centimetres (four feet six inches). The photograph was taken at Mona Mona Mission, near Kuranda, North Queensland, in 1938.

Birdsell-2.jpg

Aboriginal encampment in rainforest behind Cairns, 1890. This is the photograph (attributed to A. Atkinson) found by Norman Tindale in 1938, which sent him and Joseph Birdsell in search of the people depicted. He identified the location by the wild banana leaves on the roof of the hut.

There have been quite recent reports of


The usual cultural genocide when on in Australia and with tribes forced into mixed settlements the small people were assimilated even tho some areas the average height remains lower. The squabble goes on. Even to re-writing history

: What eventually happened to the Cairns rainforest people? The settlement at Yarrabah still exists at Cape Grafton. After 1897 it was not confined to the local people but accommodated Aborigines from all over North Queensland. The missionaries deliberately disrupted traditional tribal betrothals so that a fair amount of inter-marriage took place. It ceased to be a mission in 1960 when it was taken over by the Queensland Government. In 1986 it became a self-governing Aboriginal community but by then a large number of residents had left.

Mona Mona mission continued until 1962 when it was closed down. Its residents were dispersed to other Aboriginal reserves and into the general population. Some former residents now living at Kuranda want the original mission land returned to them.

Today, there are 14,700 Aboriginal people living in the Cairns region. We presume a good proportion of them must be descendants of the original Kongkandji, Barbaram, Indindji and Djabuganjdji tribes. For those who want to pursue the question, Norman Tindale’s genealogical records can now be consulted in a special indigenous family history section at the South Australian Museum.

and

little6.jpg



😢
The following (edited) report of June 1864 tells of the “little people’s” shocking demise:

“… awoke to the sound of much gunfire… came across a most despicable act of humanity… as if a great war had been fought… bloodied native corpses covering the grounds and in the stream waters… recognised these were the Dhi’lumi little peoples of … previous acquaintances… peppered with gunshot… his woman bearing signs of harsh raping… throat slashed… their daughter and son… killed part decapitated and hanging over a tree branch – the son less his manly wares… slaughter appears to have been immediate without warning… cooking fires were still burning… their shantys and possessions lay strewn about the ground… utter disgust that these shy, ancient and good people had been shot to their deaths… Who could have done such an evil and dastardly deed?”
“… viewed the bloody scene with much contempt… none had survived. This last group of the Dhi’lumi were all quite dead… 43 members of the clan as I had counted… five old men and eleven other males were shot… their scrotums cut away… five old women and six young women… staked, tied down and then brutalised… signs of virginity lost or rampant bodily attacked then shot in the head… found six young boys and six young girls of the near ages of 9 to 12 years… brutalised in a most cruel manner similar to their mothers… blood seeping from their front and rear orifices. Bastards! Bastards! … The last were found in the tall water bushes of the stream… 4 young babies (2 boys and 2 girls)… their small throats cut open to dye the waters and left to die… lone act with the small children emptied my churning stomach of its full contents. What manner of animal could do such atrocities to another human being?”
The settlement at Yarrabah still exists at Cape Grafton. After 1897 it was not confined to the local people but accommodated Aborigines from all over North Queensland. The missionaries deliberately disrupted traditional tribal betrothals so that a fair amount of inter-marriage took place. It ceased to be a mission in 1960 when it was taken over by the Queensland Government. In 1986 it became a self-governing Aboriginal community but by then a large number of residents had left.

One of several historical wrecks in the bay which is very shallow and would provide lots of foraging for long term indigenous people.
Screen Shot 2021-09-08 at Sep, 8    2021    4.38.13 AM.jpg
It was a fun ride....25 degrees and mixed sun and cloud.
 
Last edited:
Finally a decent day with sun and little wind. Has been grey and muggy with showers...rideable but hardly inspiring. Off somewhere to the south.

Lovely all day loop south to the Palmerston then a scones and tea at Mungali Dairy.

Screen Shot 2021-09-13 at Sep, 13    2021    7.23.34 PM.jpg
Oddly seemed to use more fuel than normal. Wind was shifty and maybe a bit more throttle than usual. Lovely day tho.
 
Last edited:

Back
Top Bottom