Ride Report: The Lake Superior Coastal Ride | GTAMotorcycle.com

Ride Report: The Lake Superior Coastal Ride

kurtrules

Well-known member
A multi-day trip was long overdue. The last long distance multi-day ride I did was in Dec 2015 when I rode 3.5k kms from the top to the bottom of India to hand deliver my CBR250 to my brother-in-law, to whom I had sold it, as I wasn’t living there.

I was living in Singapore and was away from riding for a while. I owned a Bajaj Pulsar 200 in Singapore but that was used mainly for commuting.

Fast forward to Sept 2020, when I got my V-Strom here in Canada and that re-ignited the sedate passion once again!

I had 5 full days to decide where to head off to. Initially, I had 9 days to explore Gaspe, but they were shortened owing to changes in personal circumstances. I had heard a lot of positive feedback for the coastal drive along Lake Superior in Northern Ontario, that I decided this was it.

Initially, the plan to ride the Algoma loop only, along the eastern coast of Lake Superior and down from highway 129 (another one of those roads for which I heard great things about!). But then, in one of my discussions with Shane in our last ride together, he strongly recommended that I check out the northern coast as well, which was equally wonderful, if not more, to the eastern side.

So, then the plan changed, and I decided to change course and ride out to Thunder Bay. Preparations started a long time before the actual ride. I put a post in the forum as well: 5 Day Ontario Trip Itinerary - Help needed

I had my new side cases for luggage. It was going to the first time I was riding with properly fabricated and attached, metal cases. Back in the day, I had fabric saddle bags, but the fit and quality was no where close to these ones. But that’s ok. Those were the early days of my riding and professional career. At the time, I was just grateful to be on two wheels riding, especially with the little money I was making.

I digress...

Day 1: June 30th, Burlington – Wawa (~1050 kms)

I printed out a list of activities and pre-ride work that was needed a few days before, packed everything well in advance, and was ready to hit the road at 5am the next day. When riding solo, I normally plan to start very early. The weather is cooler and there’s less traffic on the road.

But not today. It was 6am before I was able to put even a km on the odo. The weather radar showed rain for a while en-route Barrie, which was acceptable.



I fueled up at the ONRoute in Vaughan. Continued riding until a Petro Canada just before the first exit to Parry Sound. The rain had stopped, and the weather was now foggy. I paused for fuel.



I use the Lexin B4FM Bluetooth comms, connect them to my Spotify playlist, and listen to music & podcasts throughout, over ear plugs. This setup works well, and the sound quality is great considering what I paid for these.

The ride was uneventful until Sudbury



Was on the road to Espanola by 10:45. The sun was up now, and the gauge on my dashboard showed 25 degrees.

The first stop was at the Chutes Provincial Park in Massey, with views to a scenic waterfall.





Out came the home baked cake and the first red bull of the day. Also, removed the thermal jacket liner and swapped to summer gloves.

I carried on.

There was a lot of traffic on the road. On top of that, there were a few places where construction was going on pausing one side of traffic causing huge lineups. It took ages to get to Spanish. Couple that with the heat, and I was getting flustered.

Serpent & Blind river came and went. The traffic was showing no signs on easing up. When I approached Thessalon, I detoured into town to fuel up and came across this beautiful spot besides a lake:



Had lunch



I had two choices now. Continue via the coastal on to Wawa, or take the 129 up, get some relief from traffic with a trade-off that it might rain, as was the forecast on this route.

I chose the latter.

After topping up at the Esso in Thessalon, I resumed my journey north on the 129. It was 2:45pm. These last 4 hours, I had barely managed 220 kms.

I got the respite I needed. For the next 220 kms, I barely saw anyone. There was this truck I would pass, stop for a pic, it would go ahead and then pass I’d pass it again. Played this game for a while.

The first 60kms of the 129 were long sweepers with beautiful surroundings, with a smooth as silk tarmac













The next 100 odd kms were a mix bag of gravel and asphalt. The gravel wasn’t packed. It looked freshly graded at most places. Being too lazy to get down and let off some air from the tires, I just continued.



I had to duck for cover from stone acting as projectiles each time a truck would pass by. A few hit me on the leg, luckily not too hard. I was glad my visor survived. Moreover, the plume of dusk they would leave in their wake had me struggling for visibility.

…And then it started to rain. On top of that the mercury dropped. So now the situation was cold, wet, and little muddy. Not a good time stop, so I continued.

The last 60 kms, rain stopped, and the tarmac was beautiful!





The cut-off to Chapleau



I went in 10kms to Chapleau for a fuel refill, as there was no pump for the next 133kms on the 101 West.

It was around 5:45pm when I came back to where I had left the 129 and started to head towards Wawa. The 101 West, was another beautiful stretch of tarmac with not a soul in sight and a wonderful surrounding landscape.





The ride was quick. In about an 75mins, I was besides Wawa lake

 
It just after 7pm when I pulled into the Tim-Hortons in Wawa for a rest stop. I still had 2 hours of day-light and I wanted to carry on, at-least till White River, or Marathon on the route to Thunder Bay. Today was dedicated to covering maximum distance.

So I called up the two motels in White River – They were both full. Hmm, I was beginning to rethink my decision. I pulled out the phone and checked the weather – Didn’t look to promising ahead tonight. I could continue to Marathon, yes, but then I would have to miss 1 provincial and 1 national park that I had my sights on, to visit.

Change of plans – Stay in Wawa.

I called up the Wawa Motel Inn, and the lady quoted an exorbitant tariff for the night. The Outdoorsman was full. I called up another motel with good reviews, which was just 5 kms down the road. Yes! They had a cancellation, and their last room was available – 100 bucks.

The motel was Parkway Motel



Nice clean rooms



I settled in and had some food. Went back to Wawa a little later to check out the Goose

Wonderful sunset, captured from the Wawa Goose



The total route of the day:

1625773889719.png
 
Day 2: Wawa – Thunder bay ( ~550kms)

I slept quite well the night before. The mercury dropped quite a bit at night and it was foggy when I was back on the road at 8am. The plan for today was simple – Cover the 500 odd kilometers to Thunder Bay at a leisurely pace and stop at every single place of interest that I had highlighted along the route. Including the rest/viewpoints that were aplenty.

The road to White River tapers off away from the great lake, into the wilderness. The tarmac was superb, and mercury was in single digits.

Somewhere towards White River at a nice little resting point alongside a lake



White River

Good place to top up gas and have breakfast.



I continued further towards White Lake Provincial Park



White Lake Provincial Park




Right up till the boat in the park. Though there was nothing much to see, I loved the tight corners in the 8-10km road within the park!



Continued toward the Pukaskwa National Park. I was looking forward to this, as it would be the 1st close encounter with Lake Superior.



Pukaskwa National Park

I decided to trek the smallest trail which was like 500m towards the beach



And then I was finally on the shores of the Inland sea







The vastness that is Lake Superior wasn’t imminently evident with this first encounter. But that was to be revealed shortly, at Marathon.

The designated “Pic” stop



The Pic River



Back onto highway, I pushed on. Next on my list was the detour to Marathon. There were a lot of praises for the pebble beach at Marathon, which was around 12kms to the left of the highway.



Marathon

And this is the first thing that caught my attention!



Pebble Beach







I was in awe at the beauty of the place. Such a serene place to sit and just look at the behemoth carved by glaciers!

Picking up my jaw from the ground after a while, I continue further and pulled into a rest stop just before Terrace Bay





Terrace Bay light house

 
Pebble beach is such an amazing place, I took a "pebble" as a souvenir ;)
 
I was at the White River Pooh park this past saturday afternoon.

Made the drive from GTA to Vancouver in about 48hrs. Destroyed physically and mentally since then...

Love your pics
 
....continued...

Aguasabon Falls

This was next on my list. A km west of Terrace Bay.

A short trek



And then the falls:



Just gorgeous!

Back again on the 17, I continued.

I wished I could stop every few feet and capture the landscape that I was witnessing. Quite literally there was an ethereal frame at every corner.

But that wasn’t possible, though I did stop on the roadside whenever I could.









This ride could take a full 24 hours to cover with all that’s available to take in and process. But I didn’t have that luxury. It was around 3pm when I pulled into Nipigon, a good 7 hours after I had left Wawa, covering a mere 400kms

Nipigon Lookout



Being Canada Day, it was deserted. Luckily, I found a Chinese Restaurant open for takeaway and I sat down in a nice little park for lunch; a well deserved rest after sweating bricks



The lethargy was beginning to creep in. I guess with the loads of stopping enroute. I was satisfied with myself as I had not rushed this part of the journey, at all. But the process of disembarking, taking off the gear, reembarking and continuing, in this sweltering heat, was tiring and time consuming.

But I was not done yet, I still had a few more places to tick off my list.

About 60kms ahead of Nipigon, I took another right hander and continued my sojourn to yet another pit-stop, a 12 km detour off the 11/17

Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park

A kilometer of trekking in riding boots, made me realize why I had bothered with the effort in the first place

The Ouimet Canyon





Well worth it!

Rode back to the highway and continued by journey to Thunder Bay. The last stop on my list for the day was the Terry Fox Memorial, which I pulled into around 6:30pm

Terry Fox Memorial





View from there



Finally, I pulled into my pitstop for the night – Day’s Inn Motel at around 8pm, a good 12 hours after I had left Wawa, covering a total distance of around 550kms. But this day wasn’t about the distance anyway; it was about the experience!

I wasn’t done yet though. I freshened up and head out to Mission Island. A friend of mine, who was camped up at his cottage in Amethyst Harbour asked me if I had witnessed any wildlife while getting here.

Well, not really.

So, he suggested I go to mission island and I would spot so many deers that they would feed off my hands!

I obeyed.

And I saw a grand total of 1 deer, and that too jumped off the road as I pulled in towards it! And I had to endure bad city roads to get there, and I managed to get a bug in my eye which would irritate me well into the next day. So no, I wouldn’t go to mission island again; not at 10pm!

While coming back, I checked out the Thunder Bay Marina

The Sleeping Giant

 
Beautiful photos and thanks for the ride report so far. What a great trip:)
Thank you Shane!
I was at the White River Pooh park this past saturday afternoon.

Made the drive from GTA to Vancouver in about 48hrs. Destroyed physically and mentally since then...

Love your pics
That's pushing the limits. You rode or drove?
 
Excellent ride report. This will be the first year in a long time I haven't looped Superior and you caught some spots I've never seen. (y)
 
Day 3: Thunder Bay – Wawa (~500 kms)

I woke up at around 5am with a red, swollen, and painful eye that would not stop twitching. There was swelling under the eye as well. Multiple attempts at flushing out the eyes ensued, and I vaguely remember something black and tiny falling out on the washbasin and going down the drain.

Went back to sleep. The next time I woke up, my eye looked better and considerably less painful. It was 10am.

It had been tiring these two days. I was contemplating staying the extra day out here. But I wasn’t too impressed with the city itself. It was big, crowded with roads that were in bad shape. Moreover, the temperature was reaching 35 degrees! Then I got to know a fun fact – Thunder bay receives the maximum number of sunny days in Ontario. All this while, I had taken it to be tiny town far up north, that remained under snow for most of the year. I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Before getting back on the saddle, I checked the oil and the chain slack – It was loose, so I pulled out my wrenches and tightened the chain, - and foolishly over-tightened it – Along with over tightening the nut.

Now the nut wasn’t ready to budge, as much as I tried. And the chain felt like it was being pulled hard between the two sprockets!

Not good… So, I looked up a mechanic shop nearby, rode slowly till there – I had a fear the chain might snap.

15 mins later I was good to go. I offered to compensate him, but he denied. Well, I bought chain wax from the store, wd40 from a nearby Dollarama. Before heading back to the highway 11/17 East, I stopped under a tree to replenish my fluids and rest a bit as the heat was killing me.

There was only 1 aim today – head back to Wawa

But before that, I had to stopover at my friend’s place, Rob, at Amethyst Harbor. His family had cottage right on the lake; what a splendid view it offered! Unfortunately, I did not take any pics.

I spend around an hour with him. Before leaving, he helped support my bike while I cleaned and lubed the chain (Need to order a center stand!).

And finally, I was off on my return at 1pm from Thunder Bay.

I stopped at Rossport which I had missed on the onwards journey





I fueled up at Terrace bay and the weather began to turn sour. As I rode towards White River, the sky began to growl & emit shades of purple. I could hear thunder in the distance and soon enough it began to rain. And the mercury dropped. I stopped near a lake at Jack Fish and put on my rain gear. The rain had turned into a downpour

Well..I continued.

By the time I reached White River, the sun was shining, and the birds were chirping. Even the temp gauge was displaying numbers in the high 20s. So, I took off all the rain gear, opened all vents and rode off back towards Wawa.

Bad decision!

Because around 30kms before Wawa, I got stuck in the worst storm I’ve faced for many a year now. It was horrendous! To add to the misery, I got stuck behind a tractor trolley which was spraying water all over me. Couldn’t overtake because I couldn’t see the other side clearly owing to the rain.

Nevertheless, I reached my motel for the night in Wawa by 6pm, entirely drenched and dripping.

At least I had a place to stay! Thankfully, I had called in from Terrace Bay and booked it. This is the place: White Fang Motel. Nice & clean, basic rooms at $90 a night.

I would soon dry up, so would my jacket, pants, and gloves. Lesson learnt – If I am going to continue to travel like this, I need a laminated jacket and pants.

Day 4: Wawa – Iron Bridge (~350 kms)

Today was the day to cover another coastal route – one which literally hugged the coast – the east coast of Lake Superior. I had the places the I intended to stop at, marked out on gmaps.

This was going to another leisurely paced ride with maximum stopping points along the route. No fuel for 185kms, so I tanked up before leaving.



Stop 1: Old Woman’s Bay

This bay is barely 25kms down from Wawa. I had heard a lot of this place and was heavily recommended by Rob.

I personally, have never seen a more beautiful beach in my travels in Ontario!







I sat by the beach, ate my breakfast and took in as much of the beauty that I could take it, before moving on.





The next stop on the route was Katherine Cove

Stop 2: Katherine Cove







Continuing, the next stop was just 10 kms down the road

Stop 3: Agawa Bay Pictographs

There was a trek to view the rock pictographs. It was around 400m from the parking area.





The path



It was rocky and there were some steep declines/inclines. A pain doing that in riding boot. But there was this image in my head of someone holding a rope and leaning over while viewing those paintings, and I had to live that image for myself.





The surroundings from the Pictographs





 
Nice area!
(for your chain....carry a 1"x2" x 13" piece of wood on trips. Side stand down, from opposite side, lean on the bike from the subframe area enough to get the rear wheel up, and place the piece of wood under the swingarm to support the bike. Don't do it on a down slope. Bike needs to be in neutral. Lube away.....1 man job. Kick wood back & outwards when done.)
 

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