Sabex
Well-known member
Oakville, as the "location" underneath my name suggests.
Removing spark plugs
- Thread starter Sabex
- Start date
cbcanada
Banned
if you were in the east end i would have taken it off for you. just ask for some west end people to help you
Sabex
Well-known member
I'm trying some penetrating oil every night right now. if not I'll look around.
Ed In Mississauga
Well-known member
That puppy definitely looks corroded on. Penetrating oil should make a big difference. One thing you can do to help it along as someone already suggested is to run the engine briefly... the vibrations will help the oil penetrate. You don't need it to get hot, just run it for 30 seconds or so and then leave it overnight.
nesobriquet
Well-known member
I know I said earlier that you could be winding the plug out with the threads and by the time u find out, it's too late..but I thought I should elaborate on that. Fact is, there is a pretty good clue that the threads might be coming with it, if when it does move, that it has quite noticeable resistance with each partial turn...say 1/16 to 1/8 turn at a time. If after even 1/8 turn (interpretable and impossible to say for sure on internet) the plug is still pretty stiff but turning, that right there is a clue that the threads might be coming with it. In which case if you want to deal with it off season, turn it back in, don't over torque and call it a day. Hopefully it will hold compression till end of season. If it is feeling stiff still at 1/8 turn, you could use some more penetrating oil and if it frees up a lot, then you might be ok and the threads stayed. But if with a bit of pen oil, it is still stiff, then probably the threads are coming with it. If you choose to deal with it at end of year, then be extra careful turning it back in, to not over torque because now there will be penetrating oil lube that will make it harder to determine when it has seated home again. You really don't get more than one try at this if the threads are screwed. The more you work the plug, the looser the seat is gonna be.
I recommend using a tool, (borrow if you have to) that has very little slop in its bits...the handle, the fit, etc etc because the tighter the tool and handle, the easier you can feel the feedback that the movement is giving you.
Good tip about the Wurth aerosol blue ice, rbjeepthing, and the Deep Creep too. I was going to suggest an electronics cold spray, but think this blue ice is likely a bit more potent. Made a mental note of the name, will probably pick some up to have on hand unless it has an expiry date. Probably not.
I recommend using a tool, (borrow if you have to) that has very little slop in its bits...the handle, the fit, etc etc because the tighter the tool and handle, the easier you can feel the feedback that the movement is giving you.
Good tip about the Wurth aerosol blue ice, rbjeepthing, and the Deep Creep too. I was going to suggest an electronics cold spray, but think this blue ice is likely a bit more potent. Made a mental note of the name, will probably pick some up to have on hand unless it has an expiry date. Probably not.
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nesobriquet
Well-known member
Cool. I recommend loosening and retightening once a year. Good to know about the lean run condition. Best reason to get 'em out.
Sabex
Well-known member
Considering how cheap they are, and the fact that it's only a 2-cylinder, I'll probably just replace them every year.
Also: threads were fine. After breaking it loose about 1/16th a turn, it was easily removed by hand turning.
For anyone wondering: I used Seafoam Deep Creep for 2 nights (could of removed it after the first night, but wanted to give it another night just to be safe.)
Thanks for the replies everyone.
GS's come extra lean from the factory. I'm guessing his spark plugs confirmed that for him through their appearance
Sabex
Well-known member
also a few other things. like backfiring upon decel. hard to start, requires almost full choke to start, running hotter than it should be, occasional lurching upon accel, to name a few.
