Removing spark plugs

Sabex

Sabex

Well-known member
So I need to check (AND CHANGE... if the condition of the plug on the outside is any indication of what it's like on the inside... those plugs are toast.) my spark plugs.

I tried using an 18mm deep socket using a lot of strenght. but that plugs wouldn't come out. I don't have any power tools, only manpower and a socket set + wrenches, and other assorted tools.

The bike never came with a toolkit, assuming a previous owner either lost it or swiped it.

Any indeas how to remove a stubborn spark plug?


Also looking for a place to buy ngk iridium spark plugs for a gs500f (DPR8EIX-9) anyone know off the top of their head the closest place to oakville with them in stock?
 

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Power tools are not required, however, the right size socket is. According to the specs, the hex size is 3/4" (19mm). You will want to use a sparkplug socket that has a rubber grommet inside to hold the plug after you have loosened it.

Sabex said:
So I need to check (AND CHANGE... if the condition of the plug on the outside is any indication of what it's like on the inside... those plugs are toast.) my spark plugs.

I tried using an 18mm deep socket using a lot of strenght. but that plugs wouldn't come out. I don't have any power tools, only manpower and a socket set + wrenches, and other assorted tools.

The bike never came with a toolkit, assuming a previous owner either lost it or swiped it.

Any indeas how to remove a stubborn spark plug?


Also looking for a place to buy ngk iridium spark plugs for a gs500f (DPR8EIX-9) anyone know off the top of their head the closest place to oakville with them in stock?
Click to expand...
 
i hope your blowing out the holes first.... unless you have girly arms there is no way it should be that hard to take out a plug...
 
mma01 said:
Power tools are not required, however, the right size socket is. According to the specs, the hex size is 3/4" (19mm). You will want to use a sparkplug socket that has a rubber grommet inside to hold the plug after you have loosened it.
Click to expand...


or be creative and use a small rubber hose..;)
 
Try taking the spark plugs out when the engine is warm... NOT hot... run it a few minutes, let it sit for a few minutes and then carefully try and remove them again. I don't want to insult your intelligence, but just in case... counter-clockwise to remove. When you do swap them out, be careful not to over-tighten the new plugs.

Canadian Tire should have the spark plugs.
 
Ed In Mississauga said:
I don't want to insult your intelligence, but just in case... counter-clockwise to remove. When you do swap them out, be careful not to over-tighten the new plugs.
Click to expand...

I don't think it's ever an insult. You never know who's on the other end and the basics sometimes need to be restated, just in case! :-)
 
http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=DPR8EA-9&x=43&y=19

its an 18mm hex size (and when trying it, 19 was also too big)

I dont have girly arms, but that thing just wont come out. Im assuming it's the stock that was on the bike, considering the condition it's in. which means it's 7 years old and has about 30,000 km on it.

I've tried it at different temperature settings.

any chance that it got stuck/melted/welded in place due to age, heat, etc?

also: im turning it the right way.
 
Sabex said:
http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=DPR8EA-9&x=43&y=19

its an 18mm hex size (and when trying it, 19 was also too big)

I dont have girly arms, but that thing just wont come out. Im assuming it's the stock that was on the bike, considering the condition it's in. which means it's 7 years old and has about 30,000 km on it.

I've tried it at different temperature settings.

any chance that it got stuck/melted/welded in place due to age, heat, etc?

also: im turning it the right way.
Click to expand...

It's possible. They do corrode. You can try dropping some penetrating oil down there and leave it for a bit. You can try the penetrating oil, then ride a bit..then the oil again. The heat cycling might draw it further down. If you start pushing too much on it, be aware that you may break the porcelain portion of the plug and you will be unable to ride.
 
If I'm at L&L on Thursday, we can bust out my tool kit and hulk those things off

Ahh.. just remembered you have a faired bike. BOO!
 
tricky said:
If I'm at L&L on Thursday, we can bust out my tool kit and hulk those things off

Ahh.. just remembered you have a faired bike. BOO!
Click to expand...
I ripped those sides fairings off (to do some work. I mean, ****. it looks horrible underneath, gotta shine it up)

it kind looks like an sv650, but more rough/not as sleek. debating keeping it like this lol.

I'll try the penetrating oil thing later (probably tomorrow) any recommendations on a good brand to use, or will any brand work the same?
 
updates with pictures.

yes, i understand the bike is in horrible condition and looks horrible/is pretty rusty in many places. I'm working on fixing that right now...
 
Never try to remove plugs on a hot aluminum head. Many a hot head has offered up its plug threads right along with the plug, and you don't realize it's happened until you get it out and it's too late. Expensive hard learned lesson.
I have bought a used bike (more than once) and found out I bought it with stripped plug threads and or oil pan threads. And I don't believe for a second the previous owner didn't know about it unless they never changed their own oil or plugs.

I would use some penetrating oil everyday night when you park it for a few days before even trying to loosen it. If that doesn't work, then I'd go with a chilled head. Drop some ice cubes in there for an hour if you own a shop vac or air hose so you can be certain you have sucked/blown all the water out. (very important) but that said, if you suspect the porcelain is cracked, then don't do the ice cube thing.

FWIW, 30k km isn't that many kms if the top of the plug has not been damaged and if the bike is not missing or running poorly. ? If it runs ok, I would make a judgement call by looking at the other one. You're looking for an electrode that still has a relatively squared off edge. It it is excessively rounded off, then ya, it'll probably run better on a new one.

But if it's running ok now, I'd wait till the end of the season to swap it out. Having wet snow fall outside while you're working on the head inside is a lot easier to take and you can take your time and not be rushed on the repair.

edit - I see u since posted pics. That looks like someone has run that bike in the salt. At least they are super easy to get to and see that you're holding the plug socket perfectly perpendicular to the plug (also very important) And really easy to use penetrating oil for a few days in the small valley. You don't even need air to blow it out, just a rag if there is some laying there still when u try it. If I was there I have used a small pointed nail set or punch on the base of the plug and use a taptaptap, very gentle though, on an angle in the direction to remover of course. This tapping creates vibration which assists the penetrating oil to make it past the gasket by exploiting the capillary action. I would not try to do it all at once. Few taps and more pen oil every night for a few before trying it. Patience is what you wanna exercise here. Also, show us what you're using as a wrench. Depending...if it does let go watch you don't take a 1/4" hunk of meat outta the top of a knuckle on a fairing bracket or..
 
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There is a slight loss of power, but its not misfiring. (loss of power i would like to say is due to the bike running lean and/or the carbs being dirty, within the next week I'm going to be cleaning them and shimming the needles, then go from there)

I'd still like to swap them out anyways, just to be safe (and they're so cheap.)

I'll try dropping in some penetrating oil for the next few nights, then give it another try. Would any brand work?


----Thanks
 
Sabex said:
There is a slight loss of power, but its not misfiring. (loss of power i would like to say is due to the bike running lean and/or the carbs being dirty, within the next week I'm going to be cleaning them and shimming the needles, then go from there)

I'd still like to swap them out anyways, just to be safe (and they're so cheap.)

I'll try dropping in some penetrating oil for the next few nights, then give it another try. Would any brand work?


----Thanks
Click to expand...

If your going try anything, go get Seafoam Deep Creep.

Spray it around each plug and saturate them and let it sit for 24hrs. Those plugs will come out with ease .. ( or should)
 
I use this stuff Wurth Rost Off Ice. If you cant use heat then this is the next best thing. It freeze/chills and also is a deep creep penetrating lubricant. Best use I have found so far is for cracking bleeders on rear brakes on vehicles 15+ years old.

[video=youtube;94JANbbSyZw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94JANbbSyZw[/video]
 
rbjeepthing said:
I use this stuff Wurth Rost Off Ice. If you cant use heat then this is the next best thing. It freeze/chills and also is a deep creep penetrating lubricant. Best use I have found so far is for cracking bleeders on rear brakes on vehicles 15+ years old.
Click to expand...

That looks like a good product. Thanks! :-)
 
Are you using the actual SPARK PLUG SOCKET?? The one with the rubber insert inside? Hopefully you do.
 
Sabex said:
http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=DPR8EA-9&x=43&y=19

its an 18mm hex size (and when trying it, 19 was also too big)

I dont have girly arms, but that thing just wont come out. Im assuming it's the stock that was on the bike, considering the condition it's in. which means it's 7 years old and has about 30,000 km on it.

I've tried it at different temperature settings.

any chance that it got stuck/melted/welded in place due to age, heat, etc?

also: im turning it the right way.
Click to expand...

where are u located sabex?
 
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