Removing Gaskets on Aluminum | GTAMotorcycle.com

Removing Gaskets on Aluminum

MaksTO

Well-known member
It seems the more I read the more confused I get. This is what I have read about so far. Would appreciate your personal experiences working on gasket surfaces on Aluminum - what methods you used, techniques, etc.

1) Some people say use a razor at an angle to get gunk off. This will often cause scratches in my experience. I haven't gouged anything deep enough but it's (in my experience) very sketchy to do, and VERY time consuming. I am talking like 2 hours to roughly clean a surface - with discoloration remaining.

2) Some say use the razor at a 90 degree angle to surface (perpendicular) and scrape. This basically doesn't do anything in my experience. Works a bit on protruding material, but otherwise I just dont want to push too hard, and if there's a micro-thin film of paper material left, it does nothing at all.

3) Some say use a Die Grinder with a Roloc Disk. Some say this is death to an engine because it leaves microabrasive powders that you can't see inside the motor. honestly if this was a good and reliable solution, I'd dish out the $$$$$ for once in a while jobs like this...

4) some say use Red Scotchbrite pads. This method seemed to work the best for my last job on side covers (doohickey job), and car friends swear by it for Aluminum parts. Seems to leave minimal abrasion marks (nothing can be felt with the tip of a nail), and reliably removes material consistently. Again, online some poeple say it spells death for a motor or surface, but many first hand accounts from people suggest otherwise to me.

Obviously using brake cleaner liberally throughout any of these methods, avoiding rubber parts.

I'm moving onto taking the head off for a big bore on my KLR (oil burning), and wondering if anyone has any advice? Red abrasive pad by hand worked well on the side covers for me, but head gasket is much more crucial so I want to see if there's a better way to do it. I have to clean 2 or 4 surfaces (head, and cylinder bottoms), depending what I can get the machine shop to do for me.

Honestly surprised that there isn't a single solution invented to solve this once and for all. Every time I read about this online I get more and more and more confused, and at this point am almost convinced that literally anything you do risks ruining the engine :ROFLMAO:

Would appreciate hearing about your techniques and experiences / advice!
 
Call these guys. They were selling a special tool to remove gaskets w/o scraping the substrate. I think his name is Terry - He's a good guy. I knew him through the CVMG and he was showing them at a meeting one night.

Me I go easy with a razor blade though....

 
You can buy plastic razor blades (look similar to razor blades but made of plastic). You can't damage aluminum with them. They also don't work all that well. Not a bad first cut though to safely remove the bulk of the material. What's left is normally a thin layer that is easier to deal with (and much easier for your solvent of choice to penetrate through).
 
Easy with a razor blade and then lightly with a machinists stone.
 
You can buy plastic razor blades (look similar to razor blades but made of plastic). You can't damage aluminum with them. They also don't work all that well. Not a bad first cut though to safely remove the bulk of the material. What's left is normally a thin layer that is easier to deal with (and much easier for your solvent of choice to penetrate through).
What solvents do you use? Seems some use paint stripper, and I find brake cleaner is OK, but not great.

I see CRC and Permatex make (or used to make?) gasket remover, though I can't find anywhere to buy it. Amazon is overpriced and a few weeks lead time, and no local options that I can see (Canadian Tire doesn't stock it).
 
What solvents do you use? Seems some use paint stripper, and I find brake cleaner is OK, but not great.

I see CRC and Permatex make (or used to make?) gasket remover, though I can't find anywhere to buy it. Amazon is overpriced and a few weeks lead time, and no local options that I can see (Canadian Tire doesn't stock it).
Whatever is on the shelf. Work my way from least to most aggressive. Normally start with WD40 as it doesn't hurt any metal and softens up adhesives and gaskets. On a really crusty old gasket, normally I need to move on to alcohol, mineral spirits, brake cleaner, toluene, lacquer thinner, etc. Normally something in the list will get the gasket to turn to goo. I have never tried paint stripper.
 
I don't think there is a magic bullet for removing gaskets.

I usually start with a sharp scraper or razor, attack angle around 30degrees. Go slow and never use enough force to dig into the aluminum.

Heat helps. A cheapo heat gun will usually soften stubborn gaskets, then apply scrapers.

Strong solvents (acetone, xylene, isopropyl alcohol) are good for silicone/rtv liquid gaskets.

I'm not a big fan of abrasives unless you're doing a thorough cleaning of the entire part before reassembling.

By the way, you should only have 1 or 2 surfaces to clean up when doing a big bore kit. The cylinder should arrive clean. If a machine shop is doing your head, they will clean and make true the mating surfaces.
 
The cylinder should hopefully be cleaned by the Machinist, and I want to see if they can clean the head without me having to remove the valves (though my removing them or not will depend on how they do in a leak test...). If they can clean the head with valves in, then I may be able to get away with only having to clean the bottom end gasket.

Heat is one I didn't think about... just ordered a used heat gun for $25 on Amazon. Should come tomorrow. The garage I am working in is very very cold so that very well may be a factor!

Hopefully heat + brake cleaner will help. Ordered some plastic blades too just to see if I can clean some of the gunk off without worrying about scratching.

Thanks all!
 
The cylinder should hopefully be cleaned by the Machinist, and I want to see if they can clean the head without me having to remove the valves (though my removing them or not will depend on how they do in a leak test...). If they can clean the head with valves in, then I may be able to get away with only having to clean the bottom end gasket.

Heat is one I didn't think about... just ordered a used heat gun for $25 on Amazon. Should come tomorrow. The garage I am working in is very very cold so that very well may be a factor!

Hopefully heat + brake cleaner will help. Ordered some plastic blades too just to see if I can clean some of the gunk off without worrying about scratching.

Thanks all!
Heat plus volatile chemicals can be exciting. Make sure there is a fire extinguisher close by too.
 
Heat + chlorinated brake cleaner = Holocaust
I would be surprised if a heat gun was sufficient but I guess if it did start burning a quick blast from the extinguisher followed by extended time hanging out outside the open garage door would be prudent.
 
OP: What are you doing that you're sending the head out for machine work but don't want to remove the valves?
Head doesn't actually need any work for the bore kit. Just the jug. I was originally gonna leave the head as is - just though if I could get it cleaned with valves in that would be nice.

Was gonna leak test valves with some alcohol or kerosene to see if they need new guides, but if they are good I'd just want them to clean the gasket surface and that's it honestly. Removing valves seems like it would add a colossal amount of work for me - I don't even have the tools to compress valve springs. Worst case I'll just clean the surface myself.
 
I've only used a razor blade in a paint scraper handle so you have decent control. The metal handle holds the blade quite straight so you would have to try hard to make gouges. Not saying you cant gouge it, but its hard.
 
I have a can of that CT Permatex Gasket Remover aerosol stuff that is tagged as being unavailable. It worked very well + I used a paint scraper and a razor blade carefully as well.

Winston Churchill and Burnhamthorpe area in Mississauga. PM me if you want to borrow the can, you won't need much.
 
I have a can of that CT Permatex Gasket Remover aerosol stuff that is tagged as being unavailable. It worked very well + I used a paint scraper and a razor blade carefully as well.

Winston Churchill and Burnhamthorpe area in Mississauga. PM me if you want to borrow the can, you won't need much.
Thanks for the kind offer! Though now I should be OK on the gasket front:

Looks like I will only have to clean one surface on the base gasket. The head is with Gord now too after finding out that my exhaust valve guides appear to be chipped. Hopefully I can keep the old valves and just have them cleaned up with new guides and seals, as new valves and all that entails will really drain the wallet.
 
FWIW and since it was mentioned I saw a dozen or so gallon cans of Xylene for sale at Restore on Dixie Road south of Eglinton. $15.00 each.
 
Quick update for all:

Did a mix of plastic and metal blades, with brake cleaner to soften, and very careful scotchbrite in sections where the engine was plugged or far away along with a good clean afterwards with brake clean and cloth to get any particles off.

Two days of running with the new 685, and no leaks! Just needs to not explode for a few hundred KM and I will begin to trust my work :) First oil change in 50 km or so!

Thanks for all the tips!
 

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