I see you googled 6 point vs 12 point. You're welcome. No need to be so butthurt.I'm thinking daught = daughter?
or a misspelling of daft ?
either way I get it
try some heat and penetrating oil.
The sparkling bottled water of fastener removal
AVE made an entertaining video where he investigated a bunch of different snake oils. As expected, most don't live up to the hype. I figure they rarely hurt so if something is stuck and I have the time, grab whatever bottle is at hand and gob some on.
Kroil was far from the best in this test.Of them all Kroil and Mouse Milk work the best. You can make DIY penetrating oil that works twice as good for a tenth of the price.
On my first car, 3rd gen firebird, bolts rounded all the time. On ze germans that never happened to me. It's still not worth the risk to start with a 12point, round it then try with a 6point.While there is no doubt six point is less likely to round problem fasteners if it is a serious day to day problem for someone either they are working on some seriously seized and corroded stuff or there is a technique problem.... Specially when we are talking about a take along tool set.
If it is the first thing, try some heat and penetrating oil.... If it is the second take it in and have the mechanic take a look...
If you need real tools then buy real tools, not big box...
Depending on zero German in question, there are tons of triple square and inverse triple square. I have never seen those as part of a larger set.On my first car, 3rd gen firebird, bolts rounded all the time. On ze germans that never happened to me. It's still not worth the risk to start with a 12point, round it then try with a 6point.
Yep lots of triple square. 12 point on 12 point fastener can handle higher torque compared to the corresponding 6 point on 6 point fastener. I just tossed out imperial hexes and replaced them with triple square. I did the same for a few missing deep sockets.Depending on zero German in question, there are tons of triple square and inverse triple square. I have never seen those as part of a larger set.
For all of you that are mechanically inclined..... Penetrating Oils Compared A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results:
Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds
The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
25-25-25-25 is a gun bore cleaner. For penetrating oil drop the thinners and go 50 ATF, 25 kerosene, and 25 acetone@FullMotoJacket, do you have ratios for that mashup? I use penetrating oil on occasion by the quart, anything better than retail mix is in my wheelhouse.