Reboot and select proper boot device...

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MLadin said:
My Visa got jacked for $1000 in fraudulent charges from Aliexpress last week (more virus activity).
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mehh thats not likely to be virus related..

But like others have said the activation code of your windows copy should be on a (green or pink?) sticker on the bottom of your laptop sometimes inside the battery hole all you need is a copy of the disk or a USB disk that i think you can download from MS.
 
Two50noob said:
mehh thats not likely to be virus related..

But like others have said the activation code of your windows copy should be on a (green or pink?) sticker on the bottom of your laptop sometimes inside the battery hole all you need is a copy of the disk or a USB disk that i think you can download from MS.
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You can't get the ISOs from MS anymore. They took them down a couple months ago, unfortunately.
 
unL33T said:
You can't get the ISOs from MS anymore. They took them down a couple months ago, unfortunately.
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Thats dumb...i bet they are still kicking around some place. Looks like they are still available if you have a product key OP might be able to use his code to get them.
 
Two50noob said:
Thats dumb...i bet they are still kicking around some place. Looks like they are still available if you have a product key OP might be able to use his code to get them.
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As I stated earlier, you can only access them with a retail key. OEM keys will not provide you a link. If you get a copy from someone you can install using the OEM key. I deal with this all the time when I get retired machines through work.

Torrents are probably the best bet as any Google results will just be old, dead links to the old places they were hosted.

Nothing wrong with using torrents if you're getting an uncracked copy and installing using your existing key.
 
Well then op you need to find someone with an retail key just to get the download then you can use your OEM for the activation. Or a torrent you just want to check the MD5 checksum to make sure its not an altered copy.

TBH a reinstall probably would not be a bad idea given what sounds like allot of virus issues op has had..OP should be a safer browser in the future.
 
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Two50noob said:
Well then op you need to find someone with an retail key just to get the download then you can use your OEM for the activation. Or a torrent you just want to check the MD5 checksum to make sure its not an altered copy.

TBH a reinstall probably would not be a bad idea given what sounds like allot of virus issues op has had..OP should be a safer browser in the future.
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OP has paid subscriptions to Avast Premium as well as paid MalwareBytes, both running in the background. TD ate the $1000 fraudulent charges, I have a platinum Visa card, but this seems to be their policy across the board. Seriously thinking of getting an Apple laptop for my next purchase. Microsoft needs to go to war with hackers, as this will be their downfall.
 
MLadin said:
OP has paid subscriptions to Avast Premium as well as paid MalwareBytes, both running in the background. TD ate the $1000 fraudulent charges, I have a platinum Visa card, but this seems to be their policy across the board. Seriously thinking of getting an Apple laptop for my next purchase. Microsoft needs to go to war with hackers, as this will be their downfall.
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I'm pretty sure every credit card in Ontario is protected from fraudulent charges. I know I've never made sure mine are and two of mine have been compromised in the past and I was always reimbursed within days.

I've never used a paid antivirus app and the only time I got a virus was when I ran a file I knew was infected. Now I just run Microsoft Security Essentials and haven't had a problem on this laptop since I bought it 3 years ago. Generally I can go about 8 years without reformatting and by then I'm usually reformatting to wipe the machine to give to someone else or the drive failed and I need to reinstall on a new drive (could clone but might as well use it as an excuse for a fresh start).

What browser do you use? There are Mac and Linux viruses out there. They are just less common. Windows having more viruses isn't necessarily because it is insecure. It is because 95% of people use Windows (that was a guess, it's probably not that high anymore) so it only makes sense to write viruses for that OS than for any other OS that has a much lower market share.

I'd personally switch to Linux before Mac OS. I installed OS X on a virtual machine the other day and didn't like it at all. Used one in college a bit and also didn't like it. They have pretty hardware, though, although they say the newer ones benchmark lower than the older ones because they miniaturized everything rather than giving better specs (but that was awhile ago I read that so I might be wrong). I also hate how proprietary everything with Mac is and they cost much more.
 
MLadin said:
... Microsoft needs to go to war with hackers, as this will be their downfall.
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What unL33T said. As Apple gets more popular, the hackers will target them more. They were "protected" cause they weren't worth the hassle as much. They will be.
 
CruisnGrrl said:
Probably get the discs for Windows from the oem
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They usually charge for them. Price can range a lot. I've seen everything from $5-40.

CruisnGrrl said:
connecting the hard drive while the computer is on is a bad idea.

toss the drive in an enclosure, those are cheap. boot off USB, see if it still crashes that will tell you if its the drive
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While this is usually safe with SATA I agree that you should not do it with a boot drive.

CruisnGrrl said:
oh, also try booting off a live cdrom/usb key can make one on another computer
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This is an excellent idea. If it won't stay running stable on a live Linux disc or something then it's something hardware related. You could also run a few drive tests from a live CD to see if the drive has failed. SMART status really should tell you if it has, though.
 
If the computer has a CD-ROM (many notebooks don't) it may run on the same Sata hardware though older machines may have a pata chipset for the CD-ROM.

As for the oem discs costing money, well you either pay for them upfront with the purchase of the computer or pay for the cost of them when you order them. Sometimes the price is reasonable some times it's not.
 
I'm not convinced the boot order is anything to worry about at this point. My machine is set to boot the CD rom first just for the odd time i want to run a bootable cd. Otherwise it's going to look for the first "bootable" device as long as it's on the list anywhere.

Since it's booting but shutting down after 2 minutes does that mean it's loading windows and then shutting down? Does it finish loading all your services? Either way, boot into safe mode and see if it still shut's down after two minutes. If not, check the error reporting and see what if anything was being reported at the time of the shutdown (event viewer, windows logs, system). Make a system recovery disk while you're in safe mode if it's not shutting down and back up an image somewhere. If it still shuts down after two minutes my guess would be a possible power supply (although generally an issue with desktops), or over heating. Since it's a loptop, make sure all the vents (in/out) are clear. It may be slight, but is the fan blowing?

Here is also a diagnostic bootable with some HDD diagnostic tools. http://www.hiren.info/pages/bootcd

Also: this may sound stupid but does it run OK with the battery out and only plugged in?
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