Rattle can paint for race glass?

dyno said:
I used a can or Tremclad and a foam rolller, turned out better than I expected.. Smooth finish and no clear coat required. Looks like it was spayed.
I found a thread from a guy that described how to paint a car with a roller, Search $50 pain job on the internet and you'll find all kinds of info.
Here is the original thread http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Here's a picture of his car painted with a roller

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The nice thing about this is you can paint in the comfort of your home over winter,
I just finished painting my entire track bike in my basement without any mess.
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That's interesting, read a bit of the thread. But that paint is for metal, not sure if it that technique works for fiberglass and if it does, what paint to use.
 
The same paint and the same technique, it's mentioned in the thread, not sure what page. Apparently it's a big hit to use on boats with a fiberglass hull.
 
Guys, just make sure you are not using automotive paints that contain/release cyanates. The best respirators in the world do not filter that stuff out. That is why you often see guys applying that stuff using a "positive pressure" respiration system. In other words, they have fresh air coming from the outside of the paint booth and it is fired into the mask at a higher pressure than ambient. Therefore, no ambient air can go inwards. Cyanates = not good for you.
 
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You can get base coat/clear coat automotive paint in spray cans at UAP/ NAPPA Auto parts. They mix what ever color you want and hardeners into it and give you a paint code so you can always order more for repairs. Should you decide to have a pro paint it later there's no reaction since your already using an automotive two stage paint
 
I ended up painting some well used track bodywork that I picked up cheap with Kyrlon and it turned out ok. I didn't want to invest much money in paint for the same reason as you....incase I fall.

Up close it is not perfect, but from a distance it looks fine. I was thinking about putting clear over it, but when I tried a section it ended up bubbling up the paint, so I didn't bother. I didn't have to paint my tank, so I had no issues about gas taking the Kyrlon off.

Here is a pic (tank, airbox cover and front fender are stock paint, everything else is Kyrlon other than the electrical tape numbers)

 
You could do all of this, or just PM a guy(myself) who would shoot your stuff if you sanded/preped all the parts for the same price youd end up spending on all the spraybomb

All the cans that have automotive grade base or clear in them run 25 a can
 
CBRJOHN said:
If it's not smooth and provided you have decent film thickness you can wet sand it with 600+ grit wet dry sandpaper over a foam sanding block then spray it with a clear coat. I've had good results with Dupli Color clear top coat which is a acrylic lacquer clear. Just don't expect the durability to be on par with catalyzed urethane clears.

The best results that are more economical than automotive base clear systems was with Nason one step urethane and using a integrated clear final coat. But those systems are going away in favor of water based systems.
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Sorry for not getting back to this. Thanks for your info here CBRJohn. The paint I used was the Dupli Color lacquer paint. It does not have a smooth finish so if you try and use the suction cup attachment for the Gopro it does not hold. So by sanding and applying the Dupli Color clear you say it will be smooth enough for the suction cup to stick? I was getting a bit frustrated and was going to paint over it with the Krylon but now I'm rethinking that idea.
 
You need to have a clear if you want to put on a go pro. Plus you can't put Plexus or wax or anything like that either. Wash with Rubbing Alcohol and apply it during hot temperatures for best results.
 
I am trying that tremclad method on a tail section that is too patched up to justify a pro job. It is turning out pretty good and I am only a few coats in. The only thing I am doing different is using a foam brush instead of a roller.

The paint does have to be super thin to "settle", the first coat left some brush marks that needed to be thoroughly sanded.
 
I build derby cars every once in a while and use the tremclad/roller combo. I do this outside, sometimes with dew on the car and get some really good results, you can't tell when it's done right.

Once painted my old sunbird with black rattle can tremclad, held up great for about 2 years before I put that car in the derby as well.
 
I've started my Tremclad experiment paint job with my spare skins... so far I'm happy with the results.
I've had some trouble keeping little bits of lint from getting into the paint and a small amount of orange peel but I've got three coats applied and have not done any buffing yet...
The person I bought the bike from used a stone guard type finish on the skins and you can see the old paint in the first image... This is what I'm working from, the new paint is a huge improvement.

I'll post final results in a couple of days.

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That looks pretty good

What are you using to apply the paint? Foam roller? Are you getting little "divots" from the contours of the roller... That need to be sanded out? How many coats do you feel it would require?

So you can or cannot put a clear over the tremclad? The reason I ask is because of the tank... Worried about fuel spillage.

The more and more I search this topic on google the more and more insane to try it!

AND, how many times did you coat/sand - coat/sand? I'm reading to do it about 3-4 times and then buff to a shine! The results are outstanding from the pics online...
 
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I've heard that a base/clear clearcoat (i.e. urethane) will not work over Tremclad because Tremclad is never really 100% dry, but I've never tried it. Maybe the Tremclad on its own might be good enough, after enough curing time? I'd be tempted to paint a sample piece and let it cure for a couple weeks, then see what happens if you splash a bit of gasoline on it. My guess is that the shine will go away.

The piece above sure does look good in the picture ...
 
quikcolin said:
That looks pretty good

What are you using to apply the paint? Foam roller? Are you getting little "divots" from the contours of the roller... That need to be sanded out? How many coats do you feel it would require?

So you can or cannot put a clear over the tremclad? The reason I ask is because of the tank... Worried about fuel spillage.

The more and more I search this topic on google the more and more insane to try it!

AND, how many times did you coat/sand - coat/sand? I'm reading to do it about 3-4 times and then buff to a shine! The results are outstanding from the pics online...
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I purchased gloss Tremclad and applied 4 coats with a high density foam brush from CT... the rollers are about 4" long. Light sand with 600 + grit sand paper between coats.
The paint has to be thinned out with mineral spirits... just enough so that it's not too runny.
Tremclad also self levels itself so if your starting with a pretty smooth finish (which I'm not) your results will be great.
As for durability and longevity... I'll find that out on the track this year... not sure about clear coating Tremclad, I don't plan on doing it.
I'll post the final results for the top portion of the fairing later tonight.
 
I've had some trouble keeping lint out of the paint... not sure how I introduced it. Glossy black paint is a tough colour to hide imperfections so I'm okay with how things are progressing.
The tail turned out similar to the finish your seeing on the top portion of the skins... the bottom fairing is being a real bugger (very bad shape).

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R1Guy said:
I've had some trouble keeping lint out of the paint... not sure how I introduced it. Glossy black paint is a tough colour to hide imperfections so I'm okay with how things are progressing.
The tail turned out similar to the finish your seeing on the top portion of the skins... the bottom fairing is being a real bugger (very bad shape).

2ezsdxe.jpg


zxtyr9.jpg
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If you hang your parts upside down while you spray them, it will help keep the junk out of the finish.
 
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