Quit our jobs, sold our home and everything in it, gone riding... | Page 85 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Quit our jobs, sold our home and everything in it, gone riding...

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After the waterfalls, Iva and Tajana took us to the nearby town of Hum

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Hum bills itself as the smallest town in the world. And also proudly boasts being part of the Glagolitic Trail

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Walking through the gates of the medieval town of Hum

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Hum is pronounced "Hoom". Population: 20
 
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Childhood friends just chilling out

I'm a bit mystified by female friendships. They lack the common bonds that typify male friendships, like burping, farting and making jokes and laughing about burping and farting. Also, I've noticed female nicknames are more endearing. Usually they're a cutesified version of their real names. Tajana's nickname is Tayo. Iva's nickname is Zoof (for her last name).

Men's nicknames are usually bestowed after the least attractive part of their body or the most embarrassing thing their friends have seen them do (most often while drunk). They can get so insulting and demeaning that if anyone outside the circle of guy friends were to use that nickname, it would be instant grounds for a fist fight.

Neda and I have pretty much been each others sole source of companionship for over three years, literally joined at the hip for all that time. We're husband and wife, and each other's best friends. But it's difficult to fulfill the other's need for same-sex friendships. Actually, it's only difficult for me, since I've got a million nicknames for Neda (she's still not too happy about "My little Smartie") and I constantly make burp and fart jokes around her anyway...

I can see that being back in Pula with her childhood friends is really filling that need for gals-only time that she was sorely missing while being on the road. I suppose I could learn to paint toenails and talk and talk and talk for hours and hours and hours. And not burp and fart so often... No, that last part's a dealbreaker. Not gonna happen.

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I see how Neda is when she's here and happy and laughing and enjoying herself. That makes me so incredibly happy myself.

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Talking about girl stuff. And then minutes later, they broke out the toenail polish...

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In comparison, men just like to hang out with each other and be dogs,
chase bishes around and sniff each others butts. Well maybe not that last part so much...
 
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Watching the sun slowly move across the sky in a familiar country, the NedaLands

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Thanks Iva, for the great picture of us!

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Half the population of Hum live in the buildings in this picture

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The other half live here...

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What a great day, hanging out with old friends!

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Smell roses

You can travel for years and years, turn miles and miles beneath your wheels. You can chase every burning sunset to the ground of a different country every night, lie awake till morning to breathe in the foreign sky of a brand new day. Laugh at how funny these new words feel when they're rolling around in that same old mouth that you use to smile at strangers and talk and drink their wine until nobody's strange anymore. Or until everybody is. Fall in love with this, and leave. Fall in love with that. And leave.

And then sometimes you can stay awhile. Laugh with friends. Tell stories that you've told a hundred times to people that have heard those same stories a hundred times before. Because they're in those stories. You can watch the same sun fall to familiar ground every night. And you can smell roses in your own back yard.

You can stay awhile. Laugh with friends.
 
Hey, just catching up, didn't even notice that you guys stumbled upon my hometown of Rock Claw. I also wish it was pronounced this way. As soon as I've learned to speak English I was kinda jealous of English speaking people having this cool vision in their heads, of this dark, demonic town.

Ride safe! Pretty soon you will run out of roads on this world.
 
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We gave a presentation at one of the high schools in Pula!

One of Iva's friends, Nataša, is a teacher. She teaches English in a high school and when she heard that we were in town, she asked if we could come in and talk a bit about our travels to her kids. That way they could get more exposure to native English speakers (that's me) and still have some link to Croatia (that's Neda).

We've done a few presentations about our travels during the past few years. But talking in front of teenagers is very different than speaking to a group of adults. The biggest difference is their attention span. I found that you couldn't rely solely on the material to engage them. Especially not for 45+ minutes! I kept their interest up by asking questions like, "What's the weirdest food you've eaten? Here's a picture of some grasshoppers we ate. Oh yeah, I also ate brains in Mexico!" "EWWWW!!!" haha, kids are the same everywhere.

The girls loved hearing Neda talk about how we met and about our relationship on the road. And they all loved hearing about and seeing pictures of all the animals we saw on our travels: giant turtles, camels, cobras, llamas, penguins, marine iguanas... I really like giving presentations to teenagers, they're so much more expressive in their enthusiasm. Nataša had to shush them a few times when the topics got very interesting! :) They were such a fun audience!

I also like that we got to relive our trip all over again. We've been stationary for so long now, and still trying to decide if we should stop or continue. Talking about our experiences really got us excited about travel again, if only temporarily. I still kinda like not moving and not doing anything. Need more of that.

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After the presentation, the kids followed us out into the parking to see our Round-The-World machines

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They had so many more questions once they saw the motorcycles. All the boys wanted to sit on the bikes. :)
 
Our social life has gotten much busier as well. One evening, Neda's friend Vedrana and her husband Zoran invited all their friends over for a beer-tasting party. It was a beer pot-luck, so everybody brought a case of the most exotic beer they could find. We brought Croatian beer... :)

Zoran took care of the food:

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"Pod Pekom" literally means "Under the lid" in Croatian

There is a unique Croatian style of cooking called "pod pekom". It involves baking food, typically meat and potatoes, in a ceramic dish covered by a cast-iron dome. The domed lid ("peka") is then covered with hot ashes and the food inside is slow-cooked for well over an hour. What makes peka cooking so delicious is the lid is air-tight so all the steam and juices are locked inside.

I'm glad I wasn't the only one entranced by this traditional method of cooking. Neda's friends (Yes! The Croatian ones!) were also gathered around the peka taking pictures of Zoran as he walked back and forth between the fire pit carrying shovelfuls of hot ashes to pour on top of the peka. So it's not like every Croatian has one of these in their back yard and they eat peka cooking every night...
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You don't want to peek too often "pod pekom" so you keep all the juices inside. Our food was ready in an hour and a half!

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Meanwhile inside, Vedrana had the beer-tasting menu all set up :) Let the games begin!

Good times!
 
Iva lives just down the street from us in Medulin, so she's over all the time to hang out. One evening we got to talking about what she was going to do on her vacation time over the holidays. "I'm going to Thailand for a couple of weeks. I've been planning this trip for months!", she told us with excitement. And then she added jokingly: "You should come too!"

All conversation halted as Neda and I looked at each other with wide open eyes. We were both thinking the same thing. Why were we so fixated on staying with the bikes in Europe over the wintertime? Even in the most southern parts of Europe it's still friggin' cold! And we've heard that it's so much cheaper in Thailand than it is here, so at least our travel funds won't hemorrhage as rapidly over there. It just makes perfect sense.

Iva looked at us incredulously. "Really? Just like that?"

A few days later, we had booked ourselves seats right beside her on her flight from Zagreb to Bangkok.

I forwarded her our itinerary via e-mail. She responded, "I hate you guys" :)

Note the smiley is outside of the quotes...

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Prepping the bikes for winter storage

It's quite fortuitous that all of this is happening around Pula. Neda has family here who have generously allowed us to store our bikes in their garage over the wintertime.

We're normally so bad with bike maintenance. We've left our bikes behind a couple of times before to visit Toronto for a few weeks and we've always managed to come back to flat batteries. So this time we're going to do things right. I picked up a couple of battery tenders and bought some fuel stabilizer. We might be gone for quite a few months so we want to make sure the bikes are going to be okay when we get back.

*Hopefully* everything will be okay when we get back.

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Goodbye, babies! We're going to miss you soooo much! :(

We still don't know what our future is going to look like, but at least we'll have a few months in a much warmer climate to figure it all out.

It's interesting to see how our meandering route over the years has taken a couple of drastic turns that we could not have foreseen. Lately, we've been so heads-down on a path that's seemed laid out for months ahead of us and now everything is wide open again. It's very exciting!

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RideDOT.com winter vacation in Thailand! See you all on the other side of the world!!!
 
I was going to say. After a long respite (temperature in the teens Christmas Eve) winter has finally arrived in Toronto.
If you have the option to stay somewhere warm until April or May, I would do so.
 
Iva lives just down the street from us in Medulin, so she's over all the time to hang out. One evening we got to talking about what she was going to do on her vacation time over the holidays. "I'm going to Thailand for a couple of weeks. I've been planning this trip for months!", she told us with excitement. And then she added jokingly: "You should come too!"

All conversation halted as Neda and I looked at each other with wide open eyes. We were both thinking the same thing. Why were we so fixated on staying with the bikes in Europe over the wintertime? Even in the most southern parts of Europe it's still friggin' cold! And we've heard that it's so much cheaper in Thailand than it is here, so at least our travel funds won't hemorrhage as rapidly over there. It just makes perfect sense.

That's so awesome - glad you're keeping the journey going. Cheers.
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/269.html

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Bangkok hits us like a brick wall.

The sliding doors of the well air-conditioned Suvarnabhumi Airport open up into the early Bangkok morning. Hot and humid air smacks us in the face as if we've physically walked into a solid brick wall. In the harsh, bright Thai sunlight, I squint down at my phone to check the time: 8AM. Holy geez...

There's such a huge difference between overland trekking and travel by air. When you're hugging the ground on your slow journey, the geography and landscape, the daily cycles of the sun, and even the taste and feel of the air changes very subtly over a stretch of time. Hopping on and off an airplane is like teleportation. The effects are a bit jarring after crawling across the globe for so long.

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Welcome to the Kingdom of Thailand

Iva, Neda and I flag down a taxi and once again, we're out of the furnace blast and back into another smaller air-conditioned bubble. All three of us stare out the taxi windows at our new environs, a mixture of weary jetlag and curious excitement. Our driver doesn't speak very much English and he glances at the map and directions that Iva had printed out with disinterest. He asks us the name of our hotel.

"We're going to Thara House", Iva replies.

"Okay. Talahow", he nods confidently.

All three of us look at each other with uncertainty. We want to make sure nothing is lost in the translation. "So... Thara House, right?" I ask. Our driver glanced at me in the rear view mirror, "Yes, Talahow". In turn, I look back at Iva and Neda and shrugged. Okay. I'm sure that's just the Thai way of pronouncing it.

We spent close to an hour on the congested multi-lane highway, trickling forward like warm molasses flowing all the way from the airport to downtown Bangkok. This was the middle of rush hour and it seemed like half of Thailand was heading into the city for work. I was most interested in the tiny motorcycles dodging and weaving effortlessly through the pylons of slow-moving cars and trucks. I miss our bikes already! Also, I was trying to get used to everyone driving on the left.

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Ah! Something familiar! Tuk tuks from Latin America!

Our taxi finally entered the crowded and bustling downtown, and the driver circled around the area trying to find our hotel. After a couple of laps around Khao San Road, he had to stop to ask for directions. He rolled down his window in front of a large hotel and had a brief conversation with the security guard. All I heard was "thai thai thai Talahow thai thai thai". I pursed my lips and thought to myself, "But... That's. Not. The name..."

The security guard nodded affirmatively, repeated "Talahow" a couple of times and pointed out some directions in rapid-fire Thai.

At that point, I was very fairly certain we were not going to Thara House, but instead another completely different place. I wondered if the rooms in Talahow were nice. Was it even a hotel?

Not two minutes later, the taxi stopped underneath a small sign that read... Thara House. Hah! It was at that moment I learned two things about getting around in Thailand:

1) Don't print off map directions in English. Our taxi driver didn't read English, and why should he? We were in Thailand. We should have printed off directions in Thai.

2) I have to get used to the local way of pronouncing things. Just like in Quebec, when you're watching a hockey game, everyone calls it Centre Hice - the initials of which are even on the logo for the Montreal Canadiens... Deux minutes pour Hice Ticking? Ça me dérange pas pantoute!
 
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There are monks in orange robes everywhere! We have to find out more about them.

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Buddhist religion on display everywhere: Incense sticks burning in front of a shrine

It's so hot and muggy here in Bangkok! What a complete difference from the cold European climate that we've spent a year and a half living in. In the hotel room, Neda proclaims, "I miss the heat so much! We're not going to use the air-conditioning at all the whole time we're here!"

Sweat is dripping off the end of my nose. I swear I can see the hot, soupy air shimmering as it flows into the room through our open window. I would like to say that Neda's skin was glistening with perspiration, but that wouldn't be entirely accurate. She's sitting in a ever-growing pool of her own sweat and her eyeballs look like they're melting.

20 long minutes later, she's scrambling to find the remote for the air conditioner.

Because of her limited vacation time, Iva is on a mission to see and do as much as she can while she's here. I realize how lucky we are not to have to rush through everything. Although our primary reason to come to Thailand is to relax and recuperate from our travels, we decide to join her whirlwind Bangkok sightseeing hurricane tour shortly after checking into the hotel.

There'll be lots of time to do nothing later.

From our hotel, the three of us walk down the main street taking in all the new sights. Unlike the time we went riding in India, there is very little culture shock for us here. Everything is clean, nobody stares at us and there are so many gringos around. Actually, they're not called gringos here. The Thai word for foreigners is "farang". I think that's such a funny word. Farang. Like the Ferengi in Star Trek. I'm positive that's where the Deep Space Nine writers got the name from.

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A new pair of pants for me and a snazzy skirt for Neda!

One of the biggest tourist attractions in Bangkok is the Grand Palace and inside of it, the Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha). Like most sacred places in Thailand, there's a strict dress code here for decency and to show respect. This means taking off your shoes before entering the temple, and not exposing the skin on your legs and shoulders when you're walking about the grounds of the Palace. Gotta cover up those Thais! You can borrow pants and skirts at the entrance to ensure that you're modestly clothed.
 
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The grounds of Wat Phra Kaew are breathtaking beautiful!

There are lots of interesting temples and buildings all over Bangkok, but the ones in Wat Phra Kaew have cranked up the bling a few notches higher. I wonder what the Thai word for "bling" is? I just Googled it. It's "เพชร". Okay. That added nothing to this blog entry. Anyway, bling... Glistening gold paint is used liberally across all surfaces and everything seems to be that much more intricate and well-cared for.

Words can't describe how ornate and magnificent the temples and statues are, so here are a bunch of pictures:

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Green-faced, bulging-eyed, terrifyingly fanged giant guardians of the gate are called Yaksha

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This is my favorite building in the Grand Palace complex: Phra Si Ratana Chedi.
The colour is so vibrant!


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The face of the Chedi is covered in gold-mirrored tiles, which makes it more brilliant than the other buildings in the complex
Or it could be Iva (one half of the Pula Girls) and her amazing sunshine-making abilities...


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Closeup of the tiles
 
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These birdlike gold statues are called Kinnara, mystical creatures in Thai mythology</br>

There is a plaque beside the Kinnara explaining the character. The text is taken from the Mahabharata, an epic Sanskrit poem from ancient India:

We are everlasting lover and beloved. We never separate. We are eternally husband and wife; never do we become mother and father. No offspring is seen in our lap. We are lover and beloved ever-embracing. In between us we do not permit any third creature demanding affection. Our life is a life of perpetual pleasure.

Neda read the quote out aloud to me and we both smiled at each other...

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Although the top half of the Kinnara is human, the lower part is bird, enabling them to fly between the human world and the mystical realm

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If we were Kinnara, our bottom half would be two wheels and a motor
 
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Like the guards at Buckingham Palace, these Thai guards are not allowed to move, smile or acknowledge the tourists that stand beside them for pictures

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Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall

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After spending a couple of hours at the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, we grabbed some food at the market near the docks

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Some authentic Pad Thai from Bangkok. Unfortunately, just because
it was authentic does not mean it was very good... :(


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Neda's Tom Yung Soup was tasty though

The food here is so cheap. Meals are typically less than $2USD. We both love Asian food, so we're going to go bananas in Thailand! Literally. The fruit is quite tasty here!
 
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We found out that the cheapest way to travel around Bangkok is by river boat.

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But we didn't know that at the time, so we hopped on a much more expensive tuk tuk after lunch

One thing we've got to get used to is bargaining for everything. We're so bad at it. Everytime we meet someone else and ask them what they paid for tuk tuks, or whatever you can haggle for, we always find that we overpay by double!

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Our next destination was Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha
Wat Pho? Just Cause! (Sorry, so lame...)


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Cloud peeking past the ornately carved sloped roof of the temple. Thankfully it's dry season in Thailand
 

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