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Quit our jobs, sold our home and everything in it, gone riding...
- Thread starter Lightcycle
- Start date
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/156.html
After a too-short two week vacation in the sunny Galapagos Islands, we flew back to Quito to be reunited with our motorcycles. We're feeling like our batteries have been recharged and we're ready to tackle the road ahead!
Although Neda loved the sunshine and the wildlife, she missed her bike more!
The long-overdue haircut. I was almost smooth-talked into a red streak...
We found out that an important religious holiday called Semana Santa (Holy Week) was being celebrated this week, and that there would be a big parade in the city to commemorate the coming Easter weekend. So we decided to stay a few days to see what the fuss was all about.
Oh no.
There was supposed to be some kind of parade of lights in the city streets on the Thursday evening, so we took a streetcar down to the historic centre. The skies darkened considerably before sunset, and our much-hated nemesis, the rain, started falling in sheets, drenching the buildings and the parks, sending everyone scrambling for shelter
Some of the residents are used to the rain
Water bouncing off the pavement, it was raining that hard!
We watched the rain from the shelter of one of the colonial buildings, huddled together with many of Quito's residents waiting for a break in the waterworks
Had a beer inside this cool-looking mall
The rains never really stopped that evening, but it did let up a few times
We walked the wet city streets looking for the Parade of Lights. We asked the locals and nobody seemed to know. Some said it was the day after, others said that there wasn't anything scheduled for that evening. Some policemen sent us in the wrong direction. We were wet and miserable. It was a very unsuccessful outing.
One of the places we ducked into was the main cathedral where they were having a mass. It was beautiful inside!
We called it an early night and rode back in the streetcar
We thought our batteries had been recharged from our time in the Galapagos. But being back amidst the constant rains had drained our morale almost immediately. Our batteries weren't holding a charge very well...
After a too-short two week vacation in the sunny Galapagos Islands, we flew back to Quito to be reunited with our motorcycles. We're feeling like our batteries have been recharged and we're ready to tackle the road ahead!
Although Neda loved the sunshine and the wildlife, she missed her bike more!
The long-overdue haircut. I was almost smooth-talked into a red streak...
We found out that an important religious holiday called Semana Santa (Holy Week) was being celebrated this week, and that there would be a big parade in the city to commemorate the coming Easter weekend. So we decided to stay a few days to see what the fuss was all about.
Oh no.
There was supposed to be some kind of parade of lights in the city streets on the Thursday evening, so we took a streetcar down to the historic centre. The skies darkened considerably before sunset, and our much-hated nemesis, the rain, started falling in sheets, drenching the buildings and the parks, sending everyone scrambling for shelter
Some of the residents are used to the rain
Water bouncing off the pavement, it was raining that hard!
We watched the rain from the shelter of one of the colonial buildings, huddled together with many of Quito's residents waiting for a break in the waterworks
Had a beer inside this cool-looking mall
The rains never really stopped that evening, but it did let up a few times
We walked the wet city streets looking for the Parade of Lights. We asked the locals and nobody seemed to know. Some said it was the day after, others said that there wasn't anything scheduled for that evening. Some policemen sent us in the wrong direction. We were wet and miserable. It was a very unsuccessful outing.
One of the places we ducked into was the main cathedral where they were having a mass. It was beautiful inside!
We called it an early night and rode back in the streetcar
We thought our batteries had been recharged from our time in the Galapagos. But being back amidst the constant rains had drained our morale almost immediately. Our batteries weren't holding a charge very well...
Policemen lined up, getting instructions for the big parade
The day after was Good Friday, and we headed back into the city for the scheduled afternoon parade. We knew this was going to happen because of the sheer number of people that were out on the streets. We've read that a quarter of a million people descend on the streets surrounding the Plaza de San Francisco to celebrate and watch the procession. An hour before the parade was to begin, most of the people had already taken up their positions on the curbs. Because we didn't know the route or the best places to see the parade, we got pushed to the back of the crowd.
Not going to make the obvious comment...
Every Latin American city celebrates Semana Santa a bit differently. In Quito, the parade is called the Procession of Jesus Of Great Power. Penitents, dressed as Jesus, show their devotion by dragging large crosses through the streets. They're accompanied by others in purple hooded tunics. The hoods rise up in huge cones and the men who wear them are called Cucuruchos, which is the Spanish word for "cone". The cones are a symbol of humility and purple is the colour of penitence.
The hooded Cucuruchos are a bit creepy-looking. And I'm not only saying that because I'm a visible minority...
Holding tightly to a card printed with the Virgin Mary
Females who wore purple tunics are called Veronicas, named after the woman who offered Jesus her veil to wipe his face
I couldn't believe how heavy this cross was!
This penitent above had to cut across the crowd to join the procession. We were directly in his path and had to move to give him space to pass. Because the crowd was so thick, we were pressed up against him and I reached up to help support the cross as he pushed through the people. Even with several people helping him hold up the wooden pole, I could feel the weight of the cross on his shoulder. It was as heavy as a telephone pole! This young man chose to drag a telephone pole through the streets for three hours! And the foot of the cross wasn't even on rollers! That is devotion!
More penitents and Cucuruchos slowly walking the streets
While there were many people in the crowd who were very religious, holding up flyers with the Virgin Mary and Jesus printed on them, there were many others like us who were just tourists, marveling at the sights and taking pictures of the procession.
As the afternoon wore on, clouds started settling over the city. We knew what was to happen soon...
Even Spidey took a break from catching thieves (just like flies), to celebrate Semana Santa
There were marching bands, priests in brown robes, floats, all sorts of different participants
After the parade, we shared a large bowl of Fanesca
Fanesca is a well-known Ecuadorian traditional soup with salted cod only served during Semana Santa. It's a very symbolic dish consisting of 12 ingredients, each ingredient representing an apostle, with the fish representing Jesus. We had grown a bit tired of the tipico meals in Latin America, but the Fanesca was a delicious change.
With Semana Santa over, it was time to flee the rains once again. This time we'll take our bikes with us...
viper84737
Well-known member
Hey, I don't normally comment on things, but today I thought I would.
1) About policemen giving you incorrect directions, I was told many times by various people in Latin America that this is a legitimate problem. They don't do it because they want to harm you, they do it because culturally the people are taught that having an incorrect answer is better than having no answer at all. I could make a parallel comment about why they're so religious but I'll leave that to another discussion.
2) A little something to help you with the weather: In the picture captioned "As the afternoon wore on, clouds started settling over the city. We knew what was to happen soon..." you can see the clouds have very hard, jagged, finely-defined top edges. This is indicative of rapidly rising moisture which forms rain very potently. Keep an eye out for this. They look like happy white fluffy summer clouds, because, well, they're white, and all that junk looks the same, but really they're the dangerous clouds. The ones you should be happy to see have very feathered top edges and look like soft cotton balls. Those ones are harmless.
Hope that's of use to you guys.
1) About policemen giving you incorrect directions, I was told many times by various people in Latin America that this is a legitimate problem. They don't do it because they want to harm you, they do it because culturally the people are taught that having an incorrect answer is better than having no answer at all. I could make a parallel comment about why they're so religious but I'll leave that to another discussion.
2) A little something to help you with the weather: In the picture captioned "As the afternoon wore on, clouds started settling over the city. We knew what was to happen soon..." you can see the clouds have very hard, jagged, finely-defined top edges. This is indicative of rapidly rising moisture which forms rain very potently. Keep an eye out for this. They look like happy white fluffy summer clouds, because, well, they're white, and all that junk looks the same, but really they're the dangerous clouds. The ones you should be happy to see have very feathered top edges and look like soft cotton balls. Those ones are harmless.
Hope that's of use to you guys.
Yeah, they do that in other parts of the world as well. In India, we had to employ the Best out of Three Responses when asking for directions as well. Also the way they give directions in Latin America (and India) is confusing as well. In western countries, we give directions by pointing. Here, they give directions by waving. We have absolutely no idea where they are waving to when they tell us where to go, but apparently all Latin Americans understand this kind of semaphore system.
There is absolutely no way you can't watch the World Cup in LA. Every single TV in every restaurant, store or hostel is turned on full blast to it. I don't really know who the locals are rooting for, but there was a lot of excitement when Costa Rica won a few days ago, so there is some Latin American solidarity down here.
We had a funny experience walking down the street outside of our hostel, someone had just scored. As we walked by several restaurants and stores, in and out of earshot of their blaring TVs, we heard the excited announcer: "GOOOoooo oooooOOOOOOOOOoooo oooooOOOOOOOOoooooo oooooooOAAAAAAAAaaa aaaLLLLL!!!!!!!"
It lasted as we walked past three or four stores.
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/157.html
It's our first ride in a couple of weeks ever since coming back from the Galapagos and it feels good to be back on the bikes again. We're headed to the coast to escape the constant rains. Getting out of Quito was the hardest part, but once we were past the congestion of the big city, the twists and turns of the asphalt kept us amused all the way to the Pacific Ocean.
Still a bit of moisture on the ride over, hopefully it dries up as we head west
As we near the coast, the temperature starts to rise and we stop to layer down
Hi-YAH!!!! Full Point.
With very little room in the back to swing a leg over, the only way to get on the bike is to karate kick the narrow space between all the luggage! Because my GS's seat is higher than my waist, I have to do a little hop once my leg is through to get my bum on the seat. The first time I tried this with a slippery rain suit on, I almost slid off the other side! LOL!
We stopped overnight in Pedernales, right on the coast. The hostel owners are fascinated with our bikes and I catch them taking tons of pictures from the upstairs balcony. Haha!
The next morning, while walking to find breakfast, we see what we think is an ice-cutting factory.
Turns out they are cutting blocks of sea salt. No water on the ground. Duh...
Neda makes more friends on the beach in Pedernales
After a nice breakfast of ceviche, we walk around and watch some jugglers do tricks
We don't stay in Pedernales very long, it's such a tiny town with a tiny beach. So right after a late breakfast, we head back to the hostel, clamber onto our bikes and start heading south. The weather is awesome now. No more rain, and the temperatures are sticky and hot. We don't complain one bit!
Giant iguana roadside attraction heading south on the coastal road. Reminds us of the Galapagos land iguanas!
The beach resort town of Canoa is less than two hours south of Pedernales and we arrive with plenty of time to knock on the doors of a few hostels to find a place to bunker down for a few days. It's a larger town from Pedernales with a great vibe and the beach is very happening.
Lots of board sports here. Neda took up boogie boarding, she got really good at it!
Getting a different perspective on the beach
Playing around between the waves on the long, flat expanse of wet sand
It's our first ride in a couple of weeks ever since coming back from the Galapagos and it feels good to be back on the bikes again. We're headed to the coast to escape the constant rains. Getting out of Quito was the hardest part, but once we were past the congestion of the big city, the twists and turns of the asphalt kept us amused all the way to the Pacific Ocean.
Still a bit of moisture on the ride over, hopefully it dries up as we head west
As we near the coast, the temperature starts to rise and we stop to layer down
Hi-YAH!!!! Full Point.
With very little room in the back to swing a leg over, the only way to get on the bike is to karate kick the narrow space between all the luggage! Because my GS's seat is higher than my waist, I have to do a little hop once my leg is through to get my bum on the seat. The first time I tried this with a slippery rain suit on, I almost slid off the other side! LOL!
We stopped overnight in Pedernales, right on the coast. The hostel owners are fascinated with our bikes and I catch them taking tons of pictures from the upstairs balcony. Haha!
The next morning, while walking to find breakfast, we see what we think is an ice-cutting factory.
Turns out they are cutting blocks of sea salt. No water on the ground. Duh...
Neda makes more friends on the beach in Pedernales
After a nice breakfast of ceviche, we walk around and watch some jugglers do tricks
We don't stay in Pedernales very long, it's such a tiny town with a tiny beach. So right after a late breakfast, we head back to the hostel, clamber onto our bikes and start heading south. The weather is awesome now. No more rain, and the temperatures are sticky and hot. We don't complain one bit!
Giant iguana roadside attraction heading south on the coastal road. Reminds us of the Galapagos land iguanas!
The beach resort town of Canoa is less than two hours south of Pedernales and we arrive with plenty of time to knock on the doors of a few hostels to find a place to bunker down for a few days. It's a larger town from Pedernales with a great vibe and the beach is very happening.
Lots of board sports here. Neda took up boogie boarding, she got really good at it!
Getting a different perspective on the beach
Playing around between the waves on the long, flat expanse of wet sand
We found an area with hundreds of these little pools that get filled with crabs, little fishes and other marine life leftover from the last high tide
Playing hopscotch on the rocks between waves
Hopscotch Part I
Hopscotch Part II
We were really enjoying the warm weather. Even though it was overcast most of the time, the heat and lack of rain really made up for it.
We'd rush out to the shore after a nice seafood dinner every evening to catch the sunset
Neda almost dognapped this little guy from the hostel
While Neda practices boogy boarding, I practice just being bored. Don't get me wrong, it's my favorite activity!
The surfboard rental tent has a tightrope so you can practice your balancing skills
Awaiting under beautiful sunset
Sandcastles at sunset
Sky is set aflame with boats and boards keeping watch
Squeezing out every last ray of daylight
The beach got a lot more crowded every evening around sunset
Ecuador is known for so much diversity, the Amazon rainforest in the interior and the cloud forests of the central highlands, but we're beach people at heart, and we always seem to end up drifting to the coast over and over again.
Motorcycle Mike
Well-known member
Question... instead of doing the high kick with a hop, why don't you just stand on the left peg with your left foot and step over?
On a heavily loaded top heavy bike that can actually tip it the other way over the side stand as you do have to lean back a bit....even worse if the surface is not flat and/or paved.
'Course Burgman riders don't worry about that
Was kinda funny to watch undersized buddy try to mount overloaded Weestrom at times.
'Course Burgman riders don't worry about that
Was kinda funny to watch undersized buddy try to mount overloaded Weestrom at times.
Motorcycle Mike
Well-known member
On a heavily loaded top heavy bike that can actually tip it the other way over the side stand as you do have to lean back a bit....even worse if the surface is not flat and/or paved.
'Course Burgman riders don't worry about that
Was kinda funny to watch undersized buddy try to mount overloaded Weestrom at times.
I get on my Vstrom 100% of the time by stepping on the peg first -- never had a problem, not even on gravel, dirt, or grass (but I do have a wider foot on my kick stand). I've also had the bike well loaded up -- three cases fully loaded and a duffle bag containing a tent, a sleeping pad, and a sleeping bag across the passenger seat.
Riceburner
Well-known member
nice handstand.... 
Yeah wider stand would be useful - the Burgman has an excellent side stand - lots of surface area and of course the weight is down low anyways..
... depends on the riders comfort level steppingup and over or doing the hop......I can STILL be amused tho for those that diss the step through.
Best line from the Burgman forum recently....
That's a girls motorcycle!....on seeing one for the first time - we got a chuckle and we could see the connection with the old step through bicycles.
There were a few times getting my leg over the KLR on a muddy trail I could have wished for the "step through."
I was impressed when our OP crew picked those bikes up in that one ( maybe several ) muddy stretches. No fun even unloaded.
So much weight on the back of the bike, especially with the topcase up high and *behind* the rear axle, that when I step on the left peg, the bike gets levered on the sidestand towards me and the front wheel leaves the ground.
I used to ride off the centerstand at gas stations. But the weight of the bike and luggage sheared off a centerstand bolt, so I stopped doing that pronto.
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/158.html
We made a huge mistake.
We wanted to spend the next few days riding the entire length of the western coast of Ecuador, hopping from beach town to beach town. As you can tell from the map above, that didn't happen.
Crossing the bridge to Bahia de Caraquez
We stopped for lunch in the town of Manta, called the Capital del Atun (Tuna Capital of Ecuador)
There's a huge statue of a tuna fish in the background somewhere behind all the luggage and Neda
It all seemed to go according to plan until we reached Manta. As we entered the city, hot winds from the coast blew the overpowering stench of the fisheries up into the insides of our helmets, forcing us to hold our breaths as we rode. As it was getting well past lunchtime, the smell did nothing to dampen our appetite and we stopped for a nice seafood meal by the coast.
We somehow got turned around as we exited the city and headed inland instead of following the coastal road south. Why yes, we do both have GPSs, why do you ask...?
In fact, it was our GPSs that steered us wrong. You'd think that after years of experience second-guessing the GPS maps that we would have figured it out by now. The moment we realized we had gone the wrong way was when the skies decided to sling heavy rain at us. Checking the GPS, it was too late in the day and we were too far inland to turn back north. The only route directly westwards towards the coast was a dodgy dirt road through the mountains of the Machalilla National Park. Not something we wanted to do in the dark and the rain.
We had not planned to go back to the land of big cities for another week or so, but Guayaquil beckoned to us, the closest viable haven from the pouring rain. We forged on.
Bow Chicka Wow Wow!
We arrived in Guayaquil in pitch dark, with the heavy rain falling all around us. Not knowing where any of the hotels were, I turned to the only resource we had (and also the tool that got us lost in the first place). Our GPS said there was a hotel a hundred meters from where we were in the outskirts of the city. We turned the corner and saw the lights of a brilliant neon apple lit up in the sky. It was advertising a Love Hotel. Apple: as in Adam and Eve, Original Sin, etc.
We were wet and cold. It would have to do.
Inside, we warmed up to the 24-hours-a-day porn channel. The plastic under-bedding made crinkly noises beneath us and in the mirror above the bed, we watched ourselves slowly drift off into a fatigue-induced unconsciousness. As the rain raged on outside, I had strange dreams about riding in and out of long, dark tunnels. Oh, and of lots of boobies too.
Leaving the Apple-licious Palace of Porn in the morning
We rode to the centre of the city and parked ourselves and our bikes at a McDonalds for a healthy helping of wi-fi and fries to try to find a place to stay for a couple of nights. Although not Ecuador's capital city, Guayaquil is the economic centre of the country and its largest city. We had no problems finding accommodations within our budget.
Checking into the hotel, we found to our surprise that they carried the same Apple-shaped soap and towels that our Love Hotel had last night. They were owned by the same company! LOL!
Riding around Guayaquil, looking for a place to stay
Since we were in a large city, we decided to head to the shopping mall to see if I could find a waterproof camera, especially with all the rain we've been riding through.
Oooh... motorcycle racing! What was I looking for again?
Chair. I think I was looking for a chair...
Taking a walk around downtown Guayaquil
A popular haircut for dogs in Latin America: all business up top, party on the bottom
Outside the Church of San Francisco
We made a huge mistake.
We wanted to spend the next few days riding the entire length of the western coast of Ecuador, hopping from beach town to beach town. As you can tell from the map above, that didn't happen.
Crossing the bridge to Bahia de Caraquez
We stopped for lunch in the town of Manta, called the Capital del Atun (Tuna Capital of Ecuador)
There's a huge statue of a tuna fish in the background somewhere behind all the luggage and Neda
It all seemed to go according to plan until we reached Manta. As we entered the city, hot winds from the coast blew the overpowering stench of the fisheries up into the insides of our helmets, forcing us to hold our breaths as we rode. As it was getting well past lunchtime, the smell did nothing to dampen our appetite and we stopped for a nice seafood meal by the coast.
We somehow got turned around as we exited the city and headed inland instead of following the coastal road south. Why yes, we do both have GPSs, why do you ask...?
In fact, it was our GPSs that steered us wrong. You'd think that after years of experience second-guessing the GPS maps that we would have figured it out by now. The moment we realized we had gone the wrong way was when the skies decided to sling heavy rain at us. Checking the GPS, it was too late in the day and we were too far inland to turn back north. The only route directly westwards towards the coast was a dodgy dirt road through the mountains of the Machalilla National Park. Not something we wanted to do in the dark and the rain.
We had not planned to go back to the land of big cities for another week or so, but Guayaquil beckoned to us, the closest viable haven from the pouring rain. We forged on.
Bow Chicka Wow Wow!
We arrived in Guayaquil in pitch dark, with the heavy rain falling all around us. Not knowing where any of the hotels were, I turned to the only resource we had (and also the tool that got us lost in the first place). Our GPS said there was a hotel a hundred meters from where we were in the outskirts of the city. We turned the corner and saw the lights of a brilliant neon apple lit up in the sky. It was advertising a Love Hotel. Apple: as in Adam and Eve, Original Sin, etc.
We were wet and cold. It would have to do.
Inside, we warmed up to the 24-hours-a-day porn channel. The plastic under-bedding made crinkly noises beneath us and in the mirror above the bed, we watched ourselves slowly drift off into a fatigue-induced unconsciousness. As the rain raged on outside, I had strange dreams about riding in and out of long, dark tunnels. Oh, and of lots of boobies too.
Leaving the Apple-licious Palace of Porn in the morning
We rode to the centre of the city and parked ourselves and our bikes at a McDonalds for a healthy helping of wi-fi and fries to try to find a place to stay for a couple of nights. Although not Ecuador's capital city, Guayaquil is the economic centre of the country and its largest city. We had no problems finding accommodations within our budget.
Checking into the hotel, we found to our surprise that they carried the same Apple-shaped soap and towels that our Love Hotel had last night. They were owned by the same company! LOL!
Riding around Guayaquil, looking for a place to stay
Since we were in a large city, we decided to head to the shopping mall to see if I could find a waterproof camera, especially with all the rain we've been riding through.
Oooh... motorcycle racing! What was I looking for again?
Chair. I think I was looking for a chair...
Taking a walk around downtown Guayaquil
A popular haircut for dogs in Latin America: all business up top, party on the bottom
Outside the Church of San Francisco
Malecon 2000 - Guayaquil's main tourist attraction
Late in 1999, the city unveiled a new tourist boardwalk for the next millennium. Called Malecon 2000, it stretches for over 2 kms along the shoreline of the Guayas River, boasting plenty of fancy stores, restaurants and theaters for tourists to spend their money. Another attraction is the tall ship, Guayas, you can see it docked in the photo above. It's both a symbol and ambassador of the city, as it travels across the Americas.
Amusement park on the Malecon 2000
Just in case we forgot where we were...
At regular intervals on the Malecon, these nautical-themed outlooks provide a great view of the river and city
The pretty Malecon is a popular place for wedding photos!
Right across the street is the flea market where the locals shop
Only gringos spend money on the tourist trap that is the Malecon 2000. All the locals instead walk across the street to the long and crowded line of stalls and storefronts that sell everything at a fraction of the cost!
Hanging out with the statues outside the government buildings. Neda is practicing being a politician
The downtown core is a mix of beautifully painted colonial buildings and newer skyscrapers
Rainbow Anthill
This is actually the second time we've been to Guayaquil. Our flight from Quito to the Galapagos Islands made a short stopover here, and as the plane circled for landing, the distinct neighbourhood of Sanata Ana rising up like a multi-coloured hill was very striking amongst the grey backdrop of the rest of the city.
Colourful colonial architecture of Santa Ana neighbourhood
Daily life in Santa Ana
At the northern end of the city, the Malecon ends at Santa Ana, and we walk up the well-marked staircase past beautifully painted buildings boasting high-end hotels, restaurants and stores upwards to where most of the denizens of the hill lived and up to the very top where we were treated to a birds-eye view of the city, Malecon and the river.
Taking a breather at the top after climbing countless number of stairs
The tiny chapel at the top of Santa Ana hill, overlooking the city
Guayaquil was a really nice city to walk around in, but it was still a city nonetheless: lots of traffic and noise. We felt like we really missed out by bypassing the coast. Our two days on the beach in Canoa was not nearly enough time away from civilization, so we're going to keep looking for somewhere quiet to hang out for a while.
I just tried it, seems to work ok. What browser are you using?
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