Quit our jobs, sold our home and everything in it, gone riding... | Page 118 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Quit our jobs, sold our home and everything in it, gone riding...

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Temple of Olympian Zeus, you can see the Acropolis in the background

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Closeup of the tops of the columns at the Temple of Zeus. Very pretty.

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This column was felled by fierce winds in 1852. They look like the chopped up currywurst we had in Berlin. Mmmm.. getting hungry...

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A Roman Bath added just off to the side of the Temple of Zeus. Nice tiling!

Okay, two sites down! "We only have to visit one more site to make our multi-site ticket worthwhile!", I tell Neda excitedly. She gives me a big smile and an enthusiastic thumbs up, but as I turn my head back I swear I could see her smile falter a little. Or maybe that was my imagination.

It was probably my imagination.
 
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We walk back into the pedestrian streets of downtown Athens to try to find the next set of ruins

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The air is filled with Greek smells and sounds

One thing we have noticed, there are a lot of excited people yelling, "No! No! No!" They yell this at each other with smiles on their faces, which is quite unusual. Until we find out that the Greek word for "Yes" is "Ne". This is completely confusing to English speakers (and probably for a lot of other non-Greek speakers as well). If you didn't know this, you would think Greek people are very negative people that live to argue with each other. "No! No! No!"

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There are a lot of pedestrian streets in Athens. Nice not to worry about being run over by cars or buses while walking around

Next stop! Hadrian's Library! Thankfully, there are a lot of sites all within the centre of Athens, so not too much walking for poor Neda. I can't believe I'm the one more excited about hiking now...
 
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Hadrian's Library. Well, some columns at the site of the library

I told Neda that I'd like to Check Out some columns at the library. I told her I shouldn't be too long Overdue. I told her not to worry, even if I was Overdue, I'd be Fined.

She just starts walking away.

"I'd be Fined! Fined! Get it?"

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At least this guy was busting out in laughter

I think I've lost Neda. I walk all over the site and finally discover her in this climate-controlled room where they keep these statues and artifacts that need to be kept out of the sun. There's a security guard here and Neda is pretending to be interested in every single artifact in the room, lingering for minutes on each one as she soaks up the air-conditioning.

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"So what did you learn in here, Neda?" I ask. This was her response...

"Ready to see another set of ruins, Neda?"

She looks up at me and yells, "No!" Which as we now know means "Yes" in Greek. Neda was always so good in picking up new languages!

"Okay, off we go!" With every new site we visit, we're practically *making money*!
 
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Ancient Agora

An Agora is a gathering place or assembly. Somewhere where people can meet up. It's also the root of the word agoraphobia, which means fear of wide open spaces. There's a gift shop here at this site, which sells some specially made clothing. They're called Agora Sweaters.

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The Temple of Hephaistos at the Ancient Agora. Very well-preserved!

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Finally found some shade in the museum at the Ancient Agora.

We ended up visiting five different sites around Athens! Totally got our money's worth for that multi-site ticket. Poor Neda has melted into a puddle next to me. I'm going to have to scoop her up into a bucket and pour her onto the subway to go home...
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/336.html

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Athens is on another peninsula called the Attika and as we get back to the mainland, we complete a loop that started at the Peloponnese peninsula and ended up back near Delphi again. We ride through several familiar towns in the area before we start to cover new territory.

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Back on the road

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Our route takes us through small Greek towns, nice to get away from the big city of Athens.
 
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She told us we could park here. Good thing we are not cars... I think...

I hope our bikes will still be here tomorrow morning...

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The next morning, riding through Serres, just north of Greece's second largest city Thessaloniki

While the highway between Greece and Bulgaria runs from Serres straight to Sofia, I found some nice roads in Southern Bulgaria that I wanted to explore, so we steered north-east away from the main road. It takes us past Mount Vrontous, and the hilly area around the foothills turned out to also have some great twisty roads:

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Scenery around Mount Vrontous
 
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Wonderful hills in the background

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Exochi, Greece border crossing into Ilinden, Bulgaria

Most of the traffic takes the main highway to Sofia, so the Ilinden-Exochi crossing was empty when we got there. The Bulgarian border guard came out of his booth to greet our stopped bikes. He takes Neda's Croatian passport, glances at the cover then the picture and waves her through. Then he walks over to me and takes my UK passport and makes a big show about flipping through all of the pages. He sniffed and gave me a stern look. "Visa?"

What?! As far as I knew, despite the Brexit vote, the UK was still in the EU... At least for now. Wasn't it?!

The border guard kept his steely gaze on me for a moment. Then he broke out in a wide grin. "Just joking, my friend!"

Grrrr. I hate border guard humour. It's the lowest form of humour out there. Even lower than puns...
 
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Once clear of the border, the weather in Bulgaria turns ominous...

But hey! We're in Bulgaria! New country!

"What do you know about Bulgaria, Neda?"
"Nothing."
"Me too..."

Maybe we should have done some research before crossing the border...

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At our first gas stop in Bulgaria, Neda makes a new friend. She's got a whole pet store's worth of treats in her tankbag

We had the option of filling up our tanks in Greece before we left, but the gas prices there were so expensive that surely Bulgaria would be cheaper. Surely...

After topping up both our bikes, I checked the total on the pump's display. A bit over €60... WHAT THE...? Holy crap. Even more expensive than Greece. My heart sunk. The gas station lady came to take my very large-denominated Euro bill. Then she handed me a stack of strange bills. They were Lev, the local currency. Bulgaria hadn't converted to the Euro yet. Our gas bill was 60 Lev which was €30. My heart bounced off the floor of my stomach back up to the top of my head. Cheapest gas bill yet in Europe! Whohoo!!!!!

I think I'm going to like Bulgaria.
 
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Looks like one of those Disney castles, but a mini version

Although Greece may be going through a financial crisis, it still is very prosperous when compared to its neighbouring countries. The houses in the villages that we ride through are in rough shape, similar to rural Albania.

One big difference though. Instead of stolen Mercedes-Benzes everywhere:

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This is the most popular vehicle on the road

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Also the most popular fashion for older Bulgarian women: A headscarf

The headscarf is a holdover from the days of the Eastern European Orthodox churches, when they encouraged women to cover their heads like the Virgin Mary did. This is not just a Bulgarian thing, pretty much every country east of Italy has this traditional look for the older women.
 
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We're in the Rhodope Mountain range in Southern Bulgaria and headed down a road that leads into a gorge.

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Rounding the corner, the steep walls of the gorge all around us

The dark clouds overhead manage to contain their waterworks until we reach our destination. Our luck is still holding out!

We are staying at the end of the gorge road, in a town called Buynovo. The area around here is very popular with hikers and we see a few of them walking up and down the winding road in and out of town. We've booked an AirBnB here and I pull over in front of a large map of the town to try to find our accommodations. The GPS co-ordinates that I have seem to lead us to the middle of a river and the map is of no help. Buynovo is tiny, so Neda goes off to ask the locals, surely someone must know where our place is.

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After 15 minutes she returns. Yes, those are cows just wandering the streets... It's a common thing around here.

She walks up to me excitedly and exclaims, "Hey, I understand Bulgarian!" Apparently, Serbo-Croatian is very close to Bulgarian. It's like that scene in the Matrix when Neo gets information downloaded to his brain and wakes up: "Woah. I know Kung-Fu."

So I say, "Show me."
 
We ride back over to the group of people that Neda was just talking to. They were motioning us into a barn. Neda exchanges a few words with them and notifies me, "We can park our bikes in here".

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This barn is owned by the AirBnB's owner's neighbour

The locals that Neda found were so helpful. They not only located the AirBnB owner, but when they saw that we were on motorcycles, a neighbour told us we could leave our bikes in his barn. It was like the whole village was helping us. Very cool!

Turns out our place is on the river, not on the main road. We had to hike down a little bit to get to it.

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Our Bulgarian hostess prepares dinner for us

It was so very homey and so Eastern-European! The Bulgarian language is very similar to Serbo-Croatian. Neda says even more so than Polish and Czech, but not exactly. Our host had to call her daughter on the phone to translate some of the finer points in English. In fact, our online contact was the daughter. This is a very common practice with AirBnB in foreign countries. The older folks may own the property, but it's their kids (or grandkids) that are more technically savvy and can speak English. They're the ones who advertise and communicate with the tourists.

Although I've taken the lead in planning our route through Eastern Europe, I'm still glad that I'm traveling with the human Universal Translator when the tires hit the pavement.

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Our first home-cooked Bulgarian meal. This fish was caught in the river beside the house! Delicious!

So that evening, I'm on Facebook scrolling through my newsfeed. Turns out that a couple of my traveling friends with UK passports also had stories of EU border guards jokingly asking them for their "visas".

Seems like in light of the Brexit vote, there was an internal memo circulating amongst all the border guards in the EU titled, "Hey, wanna f*** with the British tourists?"

Bastards.
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/337.html

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It rained last night. Thankfully, most of the showers stopped when we woke up and we stared outside at the overcast skies, planning out our route for the day.

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Everything is so peaceful out here in the countryside

Our lackadaisical pace around Eastern Europe is now butting up against some pre-scheduled dates on the calendar. It would have been nice to stay a day or two here in Buynovo, to enjoy the peace and quiet and nature.

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Our hostess bids a farewell to us as we leave her tiny village
 
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The plan for the day is to ride the length of the gorge road and take in the scenery

The Buynovo Gorge is the longest one in Bulgaria. It was carved out of the limestone over several millenia and now boasts several pools, waterfalls and caves. None of which we're going to see because we're riding, riding, riding today!

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The road is narrow and the pavement is uneven, but the tall walls of the gorge make for an awesome ride as we follow the twists and turns of the river

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At times the road rises and we can peek over the edge at the water below. Until we hit a tunnel carved into the rock. Cool!
 
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The gorge is so narrow at one point the top of the canyon walls almost touches above the road. The narrowest point is called "Wolf's Leap" because legend has it that wolves jump across the chasm here to attack sheep pens on the other side.

The Buynovo Gorge road is less than 30kms long, but it's a one way road, so we turn back and start heading north.

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Stopping on the way back

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Enjoying the marvelous scenery
 
Plovdiv is Bulgaria's second-largest city and is about three hours north of Buynovo. We are making a pit stop here just to sleep before we head further north.

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We are staying in a nice quiet neighbourhood in the suburbs of Plovdiv

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The owner of our AirBnB place lets us park in the garden

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The next morning, we are all suited up and ready to head out. The owner snaps a pic of us.
It's so nice to be able to get a picture of the two of us together. It's so rare.
 
We debated about whether to leave without seeing the city. It's so closeby and the weather is really nice today. So at the last minute we ride into town, stash our riding gear and take a quick walk around town.

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Fountain in front of Plovdiv City Hall

Such a funny sounding name to English speakers: Plovdiv. I found out that it's named after Philip the Arab, a Roman Emperor who named the city after himself. Philip + Deva (city) became Plovdiv after several iterations of translations.

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Pedestrian street, downtown Plovdiv

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And then, we stumble across this...

We don't make a point of only visiting cities and ruins with Roman amphitheaters in them. Honestly! It just turns out that the Roman Empire spread out pretty much everywhere in Europe. And everywhere they went they built an amphitheater. And the most beautiful one they built was in Pula, Croatia.
 
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I think they uncovered this amphitheater after the modern city was built on top of it. They've integrated it well into the city.

You can see in the background: another Disney castle missile silo. I wonder if Walt Disney fashioned his iconic castle after Bulgarian architecture.

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Well, that was a nice tour. I'm glad that we got to see the contrast between the big city and the rural areas in Bulgaria

In the picture above, I point out the same sign I've seen all over Russia and other Slavic countries. "Look Neda, Pectopaht!"

"Pectopaht" is actually "Restaurant" in Cyrillic. It amuses Neda to no end whenever I say this, because that's not how she reads it in her head. It's like saying "Kah-now-led-gee" to an English person.... "Do you mean 'knowledge'?"

"Rig-Hit!"

But enough of the language lessons. It's time now to head further north. New country! And towards one of the best riding roads on Earth! Stay tuned!

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On the way out, we make a game out of spotting the national vehicle of Bulgaria. They're everywhere!
 

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