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QuickShifter Options

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Decided to get one and don't know much about them

ZX6RR 2005 - I have a DynoJet power commander if that makes any difference

Any recommendations? thanks
 
I bought an HM standalone one....it took 14 months for the ingnition kill module to arrive.
I bought it becasue it was a "good deal" at $425 racer cost.
Once the ignition module arrived, I was handed another invoice for $170....no longer a good deal, and a much worse one considering 1.5 racing seasons passed with no quickshifter.

Anyone wanna buy a new quickshifter for a 99-02 R6? LOL
 
I bought an HM standalone one....it took 14 months for the ingnition kill module to arrive.
I bought it becasue it was a "good deal" at $425 racer cost.
Once the ignition module arrived, I was handed another invoice for $170....no longer a good deal, and a much worse one considering 1.5 racing seasons passed with no quickshifter.

Anyone wanna buy a new quickshifter for a 99-02 R6? LOL

I do, how about tree-fiddy?
 
Decided to get one and don't know much about them

ZX6RR 2005 - I have a DynoJet power commander if that makes any difference

Any recommendations? thanks

The Dynojet QS is a fuel cut system. I'm not sure how the 2005 6RR works but if you have 8 injectors you will need the secondary fuel module to control all 8. If the 2005 only has 4 injectors then you're all set, you don't need the module you can just buy the QS sensor. One thing with the Dynojet system is that you have to pick a push OR a pull sensor so you can't switch between standard and GP shift.

I currently use the basic HM QS.
http://bluestreakracing.ca/electron...rs/quick-shifters/annitori-rl-quickshift.html

The HM QS is a spark cut system. It's a very simple coil ground interrupt. I had one fail, but that was at the same time that my ECU grenaded. An internal short in the ECU caused problems. I had the HM QS replaced and it has worked flawlessly ever since. It can also be used in the push or pull configuration so you don't have to choose between GP and standard. I should add that this also means that there would be a spark cut when I downshift. If you are a 'blipper' then maybe this would be counter productive but I just let the slipper clutch do what it's meant to do so it's not an issue for me at all.
 
The Dynojet QS is a fuel cut system. I'm not sure how the 2005 6RR works but if you have 8 injectors you will need the secondary fuel module to control all 8. If the 2005 only has 4 injectors then you're all set, you don't need the module you can just buy the QS sensor. One thing with the Dynojet system is that you have to pick a push OR a pull sensor so you can't switch between standard and GP shift.

I currently use the basic HM QS.
http://bluestreakracing.ca/electron...rs/quick-shifters/annitori-rl-quickshift.html

The HM QS is a spark cut system. It's a very simple coil ground interrupt. I had one fail, but that was at the same time that my ECU grenaded. An internal short in the ECU caused problems. I had the HM QS replaced and it has worked flawlessly ever since. It can also be used in the push or pull configuration so you don't have to choose between GP and standard. I should add that this also means that there would be a spark cut when I downshift. If you are a 'blipper' then maybe this would be counter productive but I just let the slipper clutch do what it's meant to do so it's not an issue for me at all.

I dont know if you can with blue streak but you can order shift rods with the qs from their site.

http://www.annitorirl.com/product_detail_1.php
 
The Dynojet QS is a fuel cut system. I'm not sure how the 2005 6RR works but if you have 8 injectors you will need the secondary fuel module to control all 8. If the 2005 only has 4 injectors then you're all set, you don't need the module you can just buy the QS sensor. One thing with the Dynojet system is that you have to pick a push OR a pull sensor so you can't switch between standard and GP shift. I currently use the basic HM QS. http://bluestreakracing.ca/electron...rs/quick-shifters/annitori-rl-quickshift.htmlThe HM QS is a spark cut system. It's a very simple coil ground interrupt. I had one fail, but that was at the same time that my ECU grenaded. An internal short in the ECU caused problems. I had the HM QS replaced and it has worked flawlessly ever since. It can also be used in the push or pull configuration so you don't have to choose between GP and standard. I should add that this also means that there would be a spark cut when I downshift. If you are a 'blipper' then maybe this would be counter productive but I just let the slipper clutch do what it's meant to do so it's not an issue for me at all.
Thanks. I am thinking in going with this Dynojet Quick Shifter Kit for Power Commander PCIII Kawasaki ZX-6RR 05.

Includes Shift Rod and Sensors. It seems to be simplest option as it is plug and play, I believe it controls primary and secondary injectors through the Power Commander (I got to research a bit more) ultimately I believe that cutting the spark and not the fuel is best option but this will do for me at $250 with the rod and sensors included..And if it is crap, then I will go the retard way and spend double money by buying the HM QS.

Edit: you are right, there is a need for a ignition Module because of the secondary injectors
 
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Same like the other guys, I got the standalone. No need for secondary/expansion modules on my PCV, or worry about push vs pull sensors.


E-mail BSR straight and Tony will be able to help you get the right size rod for it, it depends on your rearset set up, which is why the rods aren't listed on the website since there's so many combinations, but Tony can get you the right rod size. Some stock ones need the 8mm-6mm conversion clip, depending on the bike.
 
Same like the other guys, I got the standalone. No need for secondary/expansion modules on my PCV, or worry about push vs pull sensors.



E-mail BSR straight and Tony will be able to help you get the right size rod for it, it depends on your rearset set up, which is why the rods aren't listed on the website since there's so many combinations, but Tony can get you the right rod size. Some stock ones need the 8mm-6mm conversion clip, depending on the bike.
Great, thanks. I ordered the QS from them, I will call and order the Rod

This seems to be the best option - how much was the Rod?

Edit: caboose483 said it comes with a rod, might need to replace for another one the right size, we will see once it arrives
 
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Go to the products main website and there's a search feature to tell you what size you need based on your set up. It has to accommodate the QS unit and possibly the conversion piece if your bike requires it (my R6 with the stock linkage required it). Depends if both of your shift rod ends are 6mm or if one is 6mm and one is 8mm.
 
The Dynojet QS is a fuel cut system. I'm not sure how the 2005 6RR works but if you have 8 injectors you will need the secondary fuel module to control all 8. If the 2005 only has 4 injectors then you're all set, you don't need the module you can just buy the QS sensor. One thing with the Dynojet system is that you have to pick a push OR a pull sensor so you can't switch between standard and GP shift.

I currently use the basic HM QS.
http://bluestreakracing.ca/electron...rs/quick-shifters/annitori-rl-quickshift.html

The HM QS is a spark cut system. It's a very simple coil ground interrupt. I had one fail, but that was at the same time that my ECU grenaded. An internal short in the ECU caused problems. I had the HM QS replaced and it has worked flawlessly ever since. It can also be used in the push or pull configuration so you don't have to choose between GP and standard. I should add that this also means that there would be a spark cut when I downshift. If you are a 'blipper' then maybe this would be counter productive but I just let the slipper clutch do what it's meant to do so it's not an issue for me at all.

So if I am reading this correctly if my bike has 8 injectors (07 ZX6R) and is managed by a PCIII, with this HM QS i would NOT have to buy the additional ignition module as I would with the Dynojet QS?

I am right on the cusp of buying a QS as well so this info is very timely.
 
So if I am reading this correctly if my bike has 8 injectors (07 ZX6R) and is managed by a PCIII, with this HM QS i would NOT have to buy the additional ignition module as I would with the Dynojet QS?

I am right on the cusp of buying a QS as well so this info is very timely.
That is right, the HM QS is a stand alone unit

I was also about to buy the Dynojet QS but decided to go with the HM QS since it does not require the ignition module

Thanks to all the guys that posted and AC

Edit:
I have read a lot about the Annitori RL Quickshifter and couldn't be happier I got it, haven't read one bad review.
Also, when ordering from BlueStrickRacing it helps Tony if you give them the measurement of your Rod (gigiti), specially if you have after market rear-sets.

The measurement they need is this
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5849019693624167969/5849019697550399346

Quick shifter features


* Strain Gauge Sensor Control, NOT a mechanical push/pull switch

* Road or GP shift requires no adjustment at all - it happily works in either direction, and no need to order one or the other. Change your shift pattern whenever you want!

* NO moving parts! 100% Digital operation
* Ignition 'kill', NOT fuel - the proper way to quickshift, and much kinder on engine and gearbox

* Completely standalone - no need for a Power Commander or Bazzaz, but it will also work perfectly alongside these devices
* 3-way adjustable for sensitivity - easily set up to suit your bike and riding style, and is very kind to your gearbox!
* No cutting/splicing/clipping/clamping of wires, and the Annitori is easily transferred to a new bike (with the correct wiring loom and shift rod) if needed
 
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Well that makes it an easy choice, HM QS it is. I am surprised I havent read more about this QS, sounds like it is a pretty trick piece for the $.
 
I found this on another forum and I think is a great way to explain Quickshifters for someone like me that didn't know anything about them, long but worth it

Let us explain why Strain Gauge shifters are so very different then switch based designs:

Nearly all competitors' shifters are switched based. They may be called other things, but if you open them up there is a mechanical switch inside. Some variation of metal contacts and springs, or something very related to this, where movement makes the contacts meet and the kill is initiated. Virtually all shifters on the market are of this design.

The other type is a stain gauge (SG) shifter. SG shifters are a lot more complex – and a SG alone is not enough as you need extremely complex software and processors to get the desired results. (there are probably poorly designed SG shifters out there?) This complexity has been for all these years what kept Strain Gauge shifters only in the hands of the most expensive racing teams in the World. The Annitori RL shifter is a Strain Gauge based shifter of the highest design quality, 100% digital, no moving parts; no mechanical switch.

Let’s see if we can walk through the shift process using an old style mechanical switch:

The decision is made to initiate a shift. You put your foot under the lever and begin to apply pressure.

…and here is the important “key” missing from the reasoning:

A mechanical switch is an extremely crude device (the “water wheel” from above) that is trying to be used in exactly the precision of a gear change operation described in the post. This is because there is a spring holding the switch contacts open, so when this spring is compressed by the riders foot and the contacts close, the shifter has no way of knowing how much force, if any, has actually been applied to the shifter mechanism / selector drum. There is a 100% “disconnect” between the device making the decision to “kill” and the extremely precise gearbox / gear change mechanism position. The “switch” has no idea where in the actual shift process the gearbox is.

This is why “kill time” is so important to these designs. The design flaws of the switch necessitate the use of kill time to compensate for where the gearbox "might" be, or "could" be, in the gear change operation.

…and we have not even discussed the physical flaws of mechanical switch operation itself:

A mechanical switch is subject to every variable on the planet when being used in the real world. Vibration, temperature, water, humidity, dirt, dust; the list is almost endless. Put a piece of metal in your freezer and test its flexibility; now heat it to 200 degrees and test its flexibility again. Guess what? They are VERY different; so is a switch. Every one of these variables influence the moment of operation of the switch.

Even the fundamental fact that every time the switch is used, it is wearing the metal, the spring, the contacts and every other mechanical aspect of its design. That means that from the first moment of use the specifications of the switch are changing.

Which means that if the precision of the switch operation is variable at best, then the position of the gearbox / gear change mechanism at “kill time” is wholly unknown. So you are forced to compensate for “not knowing”. And if kill time is the only variable you have, then “kill time” becomes the compensator. Leading to the extremely “wide” or “variable” kill times used by these devices. Variables which are not “benefits” as some believe, but instead bandages to cover all the flaws discussed.

Now let’s discuss a properly designed and technologically correct Strain Gauge based shifter:

A properly designed Strain Gauge shifter has another input, which is sensitivity. This sensitivity setting is our (and the riders) knowledge of how much “pressure” (preload) is being applied to the shift drum / gear change mechanism. PRELOAD is the key to the Strain Gauge shifter, because since we KNOW where the gearbox is in the shift process, we know when to initiate the “kill”…

This is completely and totally different then all the switch based shifters out there, and why strain gauge shifters are used by every top end team in the World.

With a good SG shifter, the selector drum / gear change mechanism is preloaded with force from the riders foot. At a predetermined force (load) set by the rider in the sensitivity setting, the shift sequence is initiated. This is a very, very precise process... and here is the key: sensitivity (the amount of force required to initiate a shift) becomes a function of kill time. This is because the higher the preloaded force, the faster the next gear is engaged.

Let’s try to explain this with an example of falling through a door:


If you are standing at a door and someone on the other side opens it, you need time to react and move through. That is using a clutch. Pull in the clutch, move the shift lever, let out the clutch.

If you are running at the door but have no idea when it will open, then many things can happen. It can open early, and time is wasted waiting for you to get there. Or it can open late, and you plant your face (gearbox) into the door. Unless you don’t like your face, your only option to “not knowing” is to open the door early (extend kill time) and make sure you will be able to come thru… That is a switch based shifter.

BUT, there is a third way to do this!

If you push hard against the door (preload), and then somebody opens it, your inertia will instantly take you through the door, and do so EXACTLY at the precise moment that the door was opened. This is the shortest, safest and quickest way through while virtually eliminating any chance of face (gearbox) damage. That is a Strain Gauge shifter; that is the Annitori RL.


So, in short, a good shifter setup with a moderately "stiff but comfortable" sensitivity can run a shorter kill time more safely – giving faster and smoother shifting – and more importantly - ultra consistent. EVERY shift will occur exactly as it should, exactly when it should, with no effects from ANY outside factor. The Annitori RL shifter is unique in that it includes a RISC processor that is performing millions of calculations every second to ensure ultra accurate, consistent and safe shifts regardless; no moving parts means it is impervious to vibration and wear. It will operate exactly the same after 1,000,000 operations as when it was new.

This is a pretty short version of a discussion (if we can call the above “short”!), but we hope this helps to explain why “old” shifter designs are VERY different then what is available now in the Annitori RL.

We hope this helps explain the very important difference between product designs, if there are any questions please let us know.

__________________
Steve Larson- Customer Support
Annitori Distributing
www.AnnitoriRL.com info@annitori.com
 
Look at what arrived this morning

IMG-20130227-00026.jpg
 
I should add that this also means that there would be a spark cut when I downshift. If you are a 'blipper' then maybe this would be counter productive but I just let the slipper clutch do what it's meant to do so it's not an issue for me at all.
I have read many people have an issue with this, however I am not a blipper and I could't care less about a fraction of a spark cut when downshifting.

Just finish installing it, It does not get any simpler than this - Really appreciate the suggestion, now I just have to try it out.

What the hell, it gave me an excuse to do some work on the bike
 
I have read many people have an issue with this, however I am not a blipper and I could't care less about a fraction of a spark cut when downshifting.

Just finish installing it, It does not get any simpler than this - Really appreciate the suggestion, now I just have to try it out.

What the hell, it gave me an excuse to do some work on the bike

I think it is pointless and a waste of effort on any bike with a slipper clutch. The spark interrupt on downshifts has not been an issue for me so far.... carry on!
 
I think it is pointless and a waste of effort on any bike with a slipper clutch. The spark interrupt on downshifts has not been an issue for me so far.... carry on!

Yay slipper clutch!

I won't be installing mine until probably next week.... still in the negatives this weekend and my garage is cold :(
 

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