Question about a bolt sticking out - cam chain tensioner on FZ6 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Question about a bolt sticking out - cam chain tensioner on FZ6

voyageur

voyageur

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Literally, the story of my life.

I was replacing the CCT on my FZ6. The hex bolt on the inner side wouldn't go all the way. Day 1 I tried and was in a bit of a hurry, but today I pulled everything out and did it from scratch, nope. The CCT looks like it is sitting tight but I wasn't sure if I could ride it, so I didn't disarm it and left the plate in. I didn't pay attention while disassembling the old one whether the bolt was fully in. Don't see a reason why it shouldn't be. Any suggestions here? Would it be ok if I rode it to a garage to have them look at?

Thanks!

IMG_0168 - Copy.JPGIMG_0167 - Copy.JPG
 
voyageur said:
Literally, the story of my life.

I was replacing the CCT on my FZ6. The hex bolt on the inner side wouldn't go all the way. Day 1 I tried and was in a bit of a hurry, but today I pulled everything out and did it from scratch, nope. The CCT looks like it is sitting tight but I wasn't sure if I could ride it, so I didn't disarm it and left the plate in. I didn't pay attention while disassembling the old one whether the bolt was fully in. Don't see a reason why it shouldn't be. Any suggestions here? Would it be ok if I rode it to a garage to have them look at?

Thanks!

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My first thought is you used a short bolt where you shpuld have used a long one amd now you are stuck with a long one where you need a short one.

Is tensioner sitting flush or slightly cooked? Really hard to tell from pics.
 
Both the bolts are exact same length. I checked their lengths and interchanged the bolts as well.

The part diagram also suggests it's the same length.

From what I can see the tensioner is sitting flush. The bolt on the outside fits as it should.

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matt365 said:
You sure you're not cross threading that hex bolt?

Looks crooked in that picture.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
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Agree.

OP, you didn't tighten the other bolt all the way first right? I'd loosen the good bolt off as much as possible and then work on trouble bolt. Turn ccw until you get a click and then clockwise. Depending on access, maybe a ball end allen or a normal one to help it line up without imposing force in counterproductive directions.
 
Remove the tensioner.

Wind the tensioner in to retract it and insert the grenade pin, thus holding the tensioner in the fully retracted position.

Thread in both bolts with your fingers into their threaded holes without the tensioner in place, to confirm that the threads are clear and the bolts are not the wrong length. Of course the bolts will bottom in their threads because the tensioner is not in place taking up the space. Confirm that when you run into resistance when threading the bolts in with your fingers, that the space under the head of each bolt is less than the thickness of the flange on the tensioner. This test will also reveal whether you've cross-threaded something or damaged the threads.

Remove the bolts, position the tensioner, grenade pin still in place. The tensioner should drop all the way into place against its gasket without any resistance.

Thread the bolts in, with your fingers. They should go in easily without abnormal resistance.

Torque bolts to specifications.

Remove grenade pin. You should hear the tensioner spring out.

DO NOT operate the engine, or even rotate the crankshaft by hand, unless the tensioner has been properly installed and is properly applying tension.
 
matt365 said:
You sure you're not cross threading that hex bolt?

Looks crooked in that picture.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

GreyGhost said:
Agree.

OP, you didn't tighten the other bolt all the way first right? I'd loosen the good bolt off as much as possible and then work on trouble bolt. Turn ccw until you get a click and then clockwise. Depending on access, maybe a ball end allen or a normal one to help it line up without imposing force in counterproductive directions.
Click to expand...

Brian P said:
Remove the tensioner.

Wind the tensioner in to retract it and insert the grenade pin, thus holding the tensioner in the fully retracted position.

Thread in both bolts with your fingers into their threaded holes without the tensioner in place, to confirm that the threads are clear and the bolts are not the wrong length. Of course the bolts will bottom in their threads because the tensioner is not in place taking up the space. Confirm that when you run into resistance when threading the bolts in with your fingers, that the space under the head of each bolt is less than the thickness of the flange on the tensioner. This test will also reveal whether you've cross-threaded something or damaged the threads.

Remove the bolts, position the tensioner, grenade pin still in place. The tensioner should drop all the way into place against its gasket without any resistance.

Thread the bolts in, with your fingers. They should go in easily without abnormal resistance.

Torque bolts to specifications.

Remove grenade pin. You should hear the tensioner spring out.

DO NOT operate the engine, or even rotate the crankshaft by hand, unless the tensioner has been properly installed and is properly applying tension.
Click to expand...
Thank you, @matt365 @GreyGhost @Brian P !

GG, I left a flat head screw driver to hold the tensioner in position when I was threading the bolt in order give some leverage. It surely seems like I don't have the right tools. The T handle hex wrench I have doesn't come with a ball end, and it's not long enough, so it is in a weird angle that I tighten. I'll see if I can pick one up or order one on Amazon.

I will do as Brian advised. The pin is still holding the tensioner in retracted position, I didn't pull it out. I'll try threading the bolts in without the tensioner in place. Will report back!
 
Reporting back on this. The bolt only goes 3 or 4 turns when I try to hand tighten. Swapped bolts and tried the other bolt, same result.

Any advise on this?

IMG_0176.JPG

Difference in how much the bolt goes in between the two sides.
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voyageur said:
Reporting back on this. The bolt only goes 3 or 4 turns when I try to hand tighten. Swapped bolts and tried the other bolt, same result.

Any advise on this?

View attachment 67568

Difference in how much the bolt goes in between the two sides.
View attachment 67569
Click to expand...
Debris in behind? Use something small and pokey to loosen things up and then compressed air to clear (obviously protect internals from debris blast).

Alternatively, run in a thread repairer, tap or bolt with a groove cut in it to clean out threads. You need to be careful not to remove much metal as there really shouldn't be any to remove unless something has gone very wrong.
 
GreyGhost said:
Debris in behind? Use something small and pokey to loosen things up and then compressed air to clear (obviously protect internals from debris blast).

Alternatively, run in a thread repairer, tap or bolt with a groove cut in it to clean out threads. You need to be careful not to remove much metal as there really shouldn't be any to remove unless something has gone very wrong.
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Sprayed a bit of wd40 (i know not ideal) and tried a small flat head screwdriver to see if anything is stuck behind. Looks like tapping would be needed. :confused:
 
Hindsight, I know...

I have helicoils.

I have taps.

It would have taken me an hour to change out the cct on the fz6.

Now, its stuck at your condo in Scarborough. Immovable (without a truck).

I know you've got to make mistakes to learn, but I would have stood behind you and let you try to swap it, with supervision.

Now you're stuck between a "rock and a hard-place".

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
The small red tube on the WD40 stuffed into the hole and a few blasts may dislodge something from the bottom. If not spin in a tap.
 
voyageur said:
Looks like tapping would be needed.
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Actually you want to "chase" the threads, a tap will cut NEW thread, and you chance making it worse.
mechanicalmalarkey.com

Taps & Dies vs. Thread Chasers: What’s the Difference?

When threads get damaged on bolts or in bolt holes, there are two options: taps & dies, or thread chasers. What are they, and what’s the difference between the two? Why do I have sets of …
mechanicalmalarkey.com mechanicalmalarkey.com

All you you budding mechanics should get in the habit of threading fasteners on by hand. If you can't thread on the fastener by hand, EASILY, you have a problem that needs to be rectified.
 
Obtain a M6x1.0 tap. (Canadian Tire, Princess Auto). I have one, but CTC is closer. Also obtain a small adjustable wrench. Snallest one you can find. There is a special tool meant for holding taps but I don't think it will fit the area where you will be using this.

Use a piece of wire to feel for the depth of the hole. Mark your tap (masking tape wrapped around works) with the depth of the hole.

Coat the tap in grease. The intent is to encourage chips to stick to it.

Thread it in with your fingers. Be very careful that it aligns correctly with the existing treads. You do not want to cross-thread this. Turn it in with your fingers until you feel resistance.

Now, carefully use the small wrench to turn the tap. Apply torque only - do not apply side load. Slight torque is from the tap clearing the threads. If you feel a bigger increase in torque and it isn't because of the tap bottoming, turn the tap backwards about 60 degrees (breaks chips off) then forwards again.

Stop a couple millimeters before the tap bottoms. Remove it and retry the bolt.

DO NOT apply side loads to a tap. DO NOT apply torque comparable to tightening a bolt. Taps are brittle and break easily.
 
Brian P said:
if you can find one.
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You're not going to find one at Canadian Tire or Home Depot. Any industrial supply company will have them, and will usually sell just one, so you don't have to buy a set.

Sorry if I sound elitist, but don't buy tools at CTC... they're JUNK... and not cheap. I have SKF taps that are older than dirt that still have a cutting edge, the CTC crap wears out after three holes... and when a tap wears out, it breaks.
OP: if you can fit a tap holder in there, use one (This type, not this type) . A tap holder makes it a LOT easier to get the tap in straight, using a wrench introduces too much side load and makes it easy to waller out the hole.
 
Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'll try to source a thread chaser and continue the process. Given my skill level, I suppose it's safer to try and get a thread chaser. If anyone around Scarborough, North York, Markham got one I can borrow...?

bitzz said:
You're not going to find one at Canadian Tire or Home Depot. Any industrial supply company will have them, and will usually sell just one, so you don't have to buy a set.
Click to expand...
I'll go to some hardware shops and see if i can find them tomorrow. If there are any names that comes to mind, please do share and I'll just go there directly.

@Brian P - thanks mate for the step by step...I'll definitely need this. :)

@matt365 - you would have done it in 15 mins lol. I was looking at a YouTube video of swapping a tensioner and it looked pretty straightforward. I thought I could easily pull it off...well, now it's a whole project by itself.
 
So, today I picked up a tap (the shop didn't have a thread chaser) and followed the step by step instructions @Brian P posted above. The tensioner is finally in place. The noise that caused me to think that CCT has gone bad is still there, but that's a problem for another day I suppose.

Thanks everyone and thanks @Brian P ...

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