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Princess Auto Bike Lift on Sale.

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Add me to the list of happy users. Makes even basic tasks like chain cleaning/adjustment and oil changes so much easier.

I don't bother with the front chock because I like to be able to use a front triple stand for removing the front wheel, but the included one is definitely cheesy for a full-size bike.

Aside from that, I do have a few other minor issues. The tie-down loops are too close together, making it tough to have them oppose each other front to rear to keep the bike stable (this would be easily solvable by drilling a few more holes, really). I don't like how the pump pedal rides on bare metal through the frame, making it eventually squeaky even if greased. And I wish it had a spot to put in the locking pin closer to maximum rise, as the highest setting is closer to 2/3rds.

Beyond those very minor niggles, it's been a real Godsend. If you have room and work on your own bike, I'd put it up there with t-wrenches and a decent torque wrench as one of the best tool purchases you could make...
 
Priller said:
Add me to the list of happy users. Makes even basic tasks like chain cleaning/adjustment and oil changes so much easier.

I don't bother with the front chock because I like to be able to use a front triple stand for removing the front wheel, but the included one is definitely cheesy for a full-size bike.

Aside from that, I do have a few other minor issues. The tie-down loops are too close together, making it tough to have them oppose each other front to rear to keep the bike stable (this would be easily solvable by drilling a few more holes, really). I don't like how the pump pedal rides on bare metal through the frame, making it eventually squeaky even if greased. And I wish it had a spot to put in the locking pin closer to maximum rise, as the highest setting is closer to 2/3rds.

Beyond those very minor niggles, it's been a real Godsend. If you have room and work on your own bike, I'd put it up there with t-wrenches and a decent torque wrench as one of the best tool purchases you could make...
Click to expand...

I’ve been toying with removing the wheel chock so I can use a lift on the front too. Would certainly make wheel removals a lot easier.
 
Katatonic said:
I’ve been toying with removing the wheel chock so I can use a lift on the front too. Would certainly make wheel removals a lot easier.
Click to expand...
My (imperfect) solution is to have both bolts in the deck at the front with a stack of washers to raise them about 3/4" and then drop a short piece of lumber (roughly a 16" long 3x4) against the bolts. This acts as a wheel stop so I can roll the bike on without worrying about rolling it right off the front, and helps set the bike in the right place on the lift while I get the rear stand in place (with no sidestand on the track bike, I need all the help I can get). Once lifted at the rear, I can either leave the wood in place or remove it for the front lift.
 
Priller said:
Add me to the list of happy users. Makes even basic tasks like chain cleaning/adjustment and oil changes so much easier.

I don't bother with the front chock because I like to be able to use a front triple stand for removing the front wheel, but the included one is definitely cheesy for a full-size bike.

Aside from that, I do have a few other minor issues. The tie-down loops are too close together, making it tough to have them oppose each other front to rear to keep the bike stable (this would be easily solvable by drilling a few more holes, really). I don't like how the pump pedal rides on bare metal through the frame, making it eventually squeaky even if greased. And I wish it had a spot to put in the locking pin closer to maximum rise, as the highest setting is closer to 2/3rds.

Beyond those very minor niggles, it's been a real Godsend. If you have room and work on your own bike, I'd put it up there with t-wrenches and a decent torque wrench as one of the best tool purchases you could make...
Click to expand...
I echo Prillers comments. I've used it for working on a riding mower, an atv, and a bunch of other stuff where I was able to raise/lower the item to a comfy working height.

I don't use the included front wheel chock either as it's a bit small and I've added extra U-bolts as additional tiedown points. It sometimes seems a bit tippy if the bike isn't centered.

Without a doubt it has made maintenance much quicker and easier. I never regret the purchase.
 
Priller said:
My (imperfect) solution is to have both bolts in the deck at the front with a stack of washers to raise them about 3/4" and then drop a short piece of lumber (roughly a 16" long 3x4) against the bolts. This acts as a wheel stop so I can roll the bike on without worrying about rolling it right off the front, and helps set the bike in the right place on the lift while I get the rear stand in place (with no sidestand on the track bike, I need all the help I can get). Once lifted at the rear, I can either leave the wood in place or remove it for the front lift.
Click to expand...
Good idea. I use those two bolts to make sure my wheel chock doesn't slip forward when rolling the bike into it.
 
Katatonic said:
Good lifts.
I replaced the wheel chock though.
729e77d6e3b32bf9bf3e93da00d9d9f5.jpg
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does the flappy "tail" un-bolt? If so, what is the platform length with the tail removed. I'm in a small garage and would like to slide the lift, with bike on it, into a 7ft long space for winter storage.
 
canw650 said:
does the flappy "tail" un-bolt? If so, what is the platform length with the tail removed. I'm in a small garage and would like to slide the lift, with bike on it, into a 7ft long space for winter storage.
Click to expand...


The ramp is just indexed on two pins that go through two holes in the deck..
I take the ramp off before lifting the deck.
No sense having it hanging there getting on the way

Sliding the lift on the floor with a bike on it..?
Not going to be easy... front wheels are casters, but the rears only roll in one direction...
With the front wheels retracted and the base solidly on the floor... youd then have to crank the wheels back down, which means lifting the table/bike on/with the casters...
You'd have to brace the table from sliding fwd when you roll the bike up onto it if the casters are down.
 
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canw650 said:
does the flappy "tail" un-bolt? If so, what is the platform length with the tail removed. I'm in a small garage and would like to slide the lift, with bike on it, into a 7ft long space for winter storage.
Click to expand...
To add to the above info, the length of the platform with the ramp removed is 86.5". I have a metal plate affixed at the front end of my lift to stop the front wheel and it adds an extra 3.5" length for a total of 90" with the ramp removed. I also load my bike onto the lift for winter storage into a space that is 7'6" and it's perfect. Pic below shows the ramp removed and the two holes in the deck as mentioned.


2021080414242317-7710176833546886668-IMG_5338-4K.jpg
 
Hack said:
The ramp is just indexed on two pins that go through two holes in the deck..
I take the ramp off before lifting the deck.
No sense having it hanging there getting on the way

Sliding the lift on the floor with a bike on it..?
Not going to be easy... front wheels are casters, but the rears only roll in one direction...
With the front wheels retracted and the base solidly on the floor... youd then have to crank the wheels back down, which means lifting the table/bike on/with the casters...
You'd have to brace the table from sliding fwd when you roll the bike up onto it if the casters are down.
Click to expand...
very helpful, thank you. Was hoping for a storage/wrenching solution and i'm not sure i can make this work without modifications.

edit: Ignoring the bracing problem (something i've solved with my current dolly solution, I may be able to back the ass-end into the corner and then swing the front around to get it nuzzled in the 7' opening next to the wall.
 
I have the yellow table / black base PA left as per Shane's photo. I think it weighs about 325, including the ramp. Without the ramp on moving it around on the wheels is not an issue, especially if your garage floor is smooth. Lifting one end up to reposition it can be done without too much difficulty as I think you're probably just lifting about 100 - 125 lbs. Depending on the weight of your bike moving the lift on the wheels is probably possible, but I'd want a helper there just in case. If you going to all that trouble maybe the simpler thing to do is leave the bike off the lift, position the lift where you want it to be and then load the bike.
 
Hack said:
The HF unit is a heavier/sturdier unit than the PA...
'Not entirely sure if I'd feel confident enough to hoist a 600 pound FJR up on the PA lift and then start wrenching.
I've worked with both and find the PA deck to be of lighter gauge steel.. IIRC it's a bit narrower than the HF model as well.

'Not a POS by any means, but... Consider the weight/size of the bike you'll be lifting before running out to buy :)


EPyfmTt.jpg


Yeah... Yeah... I know.... No tie downs. Lift is solid enough for an oil change. and the base is bracketed to the floor so it can't tip.




dUU5HjF.jpg
Click to expand...
I had the PA manual one and used it for the Goldwing. It was a bit iffy on length so I added a bit.
 
Hack said:
The HF unit is a heavier/sturdier unit than the PA...
'Not entirely sure if I'd feel confident enough to hoist a 600 pound FJR up on the PA lift and then start wrenching.
I've worked with both and find the PA deck to be of lighter gauge steel.. IIRC it's a bit narrower than the HF model as well.

'Not a POS by any means, but... Consider the weight/size of the bike you'll be lifting before running out to buy :)


EPyfmTt.jpg


Yeah... Yeah... I know.... No tie downs. Lift is solid enough for an oil change. and the base is bracketed to the floor so it can't tip.




dUU5HjF.jpg
Click to expand...
I had a Harley Fatboy on my PA lift to work on and seemed fine to me
 
Seriously thinking of getting one. Two questions. Once you have a bike on the lift how do you raise the bike (on lift) to remove a wheel?

Also can this unit be tipped onto it's end so it has a very small foot print if not needed?

Thanks All.
 
Use a stand the same as if it were on the floor. The dropout panel makes it easy for bikes that have bags.
You might have to bleed the pump after. Remember how much it weighs btw.
 
$500 seems a lot, just to be comfortable while doing your own oil changes to save $$$.

What am I missing that makes it a worthwhile investment?
 
timtune said:
Seriously thinking of getting one. Two questions. Once you have a bike on the lift how do you raise the bike (on lift) to remove a wheel?
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What @Wingboy said. To take it even further, here's a pic of my RC51 up on jack stands and a triple stand for full suspension removal front and rear:

20201121_212118.jpg

If you just want to remove wheels, you can use a centre stand or basic paddock stand on the rear, and a simpler fork lift stand on the front.

timtune said:
Also can this unit be tipped onto it's end so it has a very small foot print if not needed?
Click to expand...
It's theoretically possible, but wouldn't be easy. It's very heavy, so would likely need some sort of lift or help to get it vertical. I got mine out of the back of my truck unassisted, but it was touch and go at times. It's not really designed to be anything but flat, though, so you'd have to be careful not to bend or twist some of the supports. I could maybe see it tipped up on the back end so the wheels/chassis hangs down.

Baggsy said:
$500 seems a lot, just to be comfortable while doing your own oil changes to save $$$.

What am I missing that makes it a worthwhile investment?
Click to expand...
If it's just for oil changes and chain cleaning, definitely a luxury. But if you want to do more in-depth projects, it helps a lot. Having the bike in front of you rather than under you helps make a lot of tasks way simpler, even if it just makes it easier to see what you're doing. For example, in my case the exhaust is a total ***** to get lined up, needing to go together all at once and be held just so, with exhaust ports on opposite ends of the motor. Being able to do this in front of me at eye level rather than on the floor on my knees takes it from a sweary, sweaty job to something much simpler...
 
Baggsy said:
$500 seems a lot, just to be comfortable while doing your own oil changes to save $$$.

What am I missing that makes it a worthwhile investment?
Click to expand...
That’s my reason for not getting it.

The extent of what I’m preparing to do to my bike is a chain swap. Sure this thing would help, but not sure I’m willing to drop serious coin on it.

Also my garage floor isn’t fully level / even so not sure how helpful it would be. Centre stand helps me out big time.
 
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