Mine come with these
These are some tightly rolled warmers, lol
|
|
|
Pressures
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
These are some tightly rolled warmers, lol
triggerhappy
Well-known member
This is off of the Pro6 website regarding pressures and warmers :
- Set temperatures for warmers to 75OC (167OF) or MEDIUM or ON depending on style of warmers. Set front and rear tires for 45 min - 1 hour.
- Set the hot starting pressure immediately before going out on the track (refer to chart on reverse). Ensure you are looking at the appropriate model of tire.
- If the bike returns to the pits and is then going straight out on the track, DO NOT reset the pressures to the starting pressure.
- If the bike is going to sit in the pits between sessions;
- Put the warmers on and leave them unplugged.
- 20-30 min before before your session, plug them in.
- If the bike is going to sit more than 2 hours, start back at #1 above before the next session.
Mr.Azim
Well-known member
I thought they were Shawarma wraps. What's with all the wiring sticking out of those?
wheel/rim covers are cheap. Nothing to brag about getting them with the purchase of Shawarma wrap warmers.
FriendlyFoe
Well-known member
I want to be perfect, so when I crash I don't blame the tires
I know you probably realize already but you're over thinking this. Set your tires to 29/26 hot and go ride.
Have you ever run on a full race slick before? The biggest thing i noticed when i switched to race tires is that if you're going too slowly they give you zero feedback, right up until the second they let go. You need to be going fast enough to make the tires start moving around to get predictable feedback.
Is the TMP day you're going to run by GWB? Donald has done some really good suspension tuning for me in the past (like helped me completely sort out a bike) and i'm thinking you'd get a lot more out of having someone help you with your clickers then worry about a pound or two of tire pressure.
So basically go out there and get after it.
I'd have to agree. You're over thinking this. Obviously it's your *** on the line so you're entitled to do what you want but, based on what you're saying about your skill level, you're better focusing on body positioning and smooth riding. Yes, set your tires correctly either hot or cold. But if you crash I can almost guarantee it won't be because your tires were 1/2lb off correct pressure. Not until you're riding at a higher level.
I ride at a decent pace. I set my cold pressure first thing in the am before throwing the warmers on. After that I monitor hot pressures to make sure all is good. But it's very rare for me to alter pressure during a day.
Yeah, probably you're right, I'm over-thinking the importance of precise pressure at my current skill level. I'm not fast, but I'm not the slowest either (1:25 consistent at TMP, looking to improve to 1:20 this summer). It will be the first time for me on racing click tires, so yeah---I understand I need to be pushing them hard to keep them warm, also predictable. If they lose temp and don't work the way they are designed to work, I know they'll give in with no warning. In all fairness, I'm trying to gather all the info now, in reality there is so much going on for a newer rider like me, that at the track it becomes hard and overwhelming to pay perfect attention to everything. So the more I research now, the bigger chance I'll keep note of it later.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate all of it.
EDIT: as for suspension setup---I don't know if it's run by Guys with bikes this Thursday. I had Ryan Gill set it up for me last summer, and I was happy with it (could barely if ever feel the notoriously famous bumps at TMP, and tire wear was good). We'll see now, but I might ask for Donald if I need help.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate all of it.
EDIT: as for suspension setup---I don't know if it's run by Guys with bikes this Thursday. I had Ryan Gill set it up for me last summer, and I was happy with it (could barely if ever feel the notoriously famous bumps at TMP, and tire wear was good). We'll see now, but I might ask for Donald if I need help.
Last edited:
I've no idea what times I run at TMP, i go so infrequently, so i'm not sure if thats a good time or not. Sounds okay to me.
As to the second part in bold here's my advice for all newer track riders (and something i have to remind myself sometimes); every time you go out on track for a session have something in mind you want to work on. Don't matter if it's learning a corner, learning a track (like 'bogie), exit speed, braking techniques or even seeing which gloves you prefer. Always have something in mind to work on. Otherwise you're just burning fuel without purpose.
Mr.Azim
Well-known member
He just set up the sag. That's step 1. Steps 2-1,348 is setting up compression and rebound based on where you're riding, what you're riding on and how fast you're riding.
And as your fork oil gets squeezed through all those pistons and seals.... you'll eventually have to make more adjustments.
FriendlyFoe
Well-known member
haha what azim said. Was just about to chime in with basically that.
BTW the more speed you carry into the braking zones the bigger the bumps get.
BTW the more speed you carry into the braking zones the bigger the bumps get.
Hello,,,, I'm right here,,could have saved yourself about 30 posts!
This is way more complicated then you need to make it.
IF it is your first heat cycle and the bike has been outside in the cold ,,plan for AT LEAST 1 hour for your first warmer cycle.
IF it is or below 15 Celcius YOU will need your warmers ALL the time between sessions. IF it is below 15 CELCIUS you will not build heat at TMP.
So learn to come in after about 10 laps as your tires will probably be cooling off. FACT being ,,,TMP like Shannonville does not have corners that build heat in the cooler weather.
IF You have warmers of another make use them as the instructions say. The tire Sox shown work well but only if you use the cozies they come with.USE them even if it is 30 Celcius out.
So put your warmers on check the rim with your infra red gauge,,, you should see heat above what the swing arm is.
You can use it on the tire but it gives you surface temp only which means squat.
So use your hand and stop messing your head up.
We had tires coming off DiSalvo's bike at 124 Celcius. So you need good heat today.
If your warmers don't get the tire warm with our warmers you have older models. Our warmers are the BEST warmers for heat retention bar none. That is why we are growing in the AMA paddock.
BUT if it is under 15 C all warmers will have trouble so cover them and help them help you.
If you put the best furnace you can buy in your house and leave the doors and windows open,,,, it's not the furnace's fault the house is cold.
Mother nature will fight you so plan for it. Then you can ride with piece of mind.
But remember,, if you have hot tires and the ground is frozen,,,,,how well does that work. Better ask Dave for Blizzacks,,casue they "stick to ice"
E-mail me next time,,stop hurting your head
This is way more complicated then you need to make it.
IF it is your first heat cycle and the bike has been outside in the cold ,,plan for AT LEAST 1 hour for your first warmer cycle.
IF it is or below 15 Celcius YOU will need your warmers ALL the time between sessions. IF it is below 15 CELCIUS you will not build heat at TMP.
So learn to come in after about 10 laps as your tires will probably be cooling off. FACT being ,,,TMP like Shannonville does not have corners that build heat in the cooler weather.
IF You have warmers of another make use them as the instructions say. The tire Sox shown work well but only if you use the cozies they come with.USE them even if it is 30 Celcius out.
So put your warmers on check the rim with your infra red gauge,,, you should see heat above what the swing arm is.
You can use it on the tire but it gives you surface temp only which means squat.
So use your hand and stop messing your head up.
We had tires coming off DiSalvo's bike at 124 Celcius. So you need good heat today.
If your warmers don't get the tire warm with our warmers you have older models. Our warmers are the BEST warmers for heat retention bar none. That is why we are growing in the AMA paddock.
BUT if it is under 15 C all warmers will have trouble so cover them and help them help you.
If you put the best furnace you can buy in your house and leave the doors and windows open,,,, it's not the furnace's fault the house is cold.
Mother nature will fight you so plan for it. Then you can ride with piece of mind.
But remember,, if you have hot tires and the ground is frozen,,,,,how well does that work. Better ask Dave for Blizzacks,,casue they "stick to ice"
E-mail me next time,,stop hurting your head
I know that
I'm almost done reading a pretty nice book on the matter, educating myself u know: "Sportbike suspension tuning" by Trevitt. Learned quite a bit of things I didn't know.Thanks John. This is really useful info, and I'll apply it. As for the warmers---don't know if they are new/old, got them from Jodi Christie, there is no temp control on them (I didn't want one in the first place), and no cozies (covers). I guess they are the old model.. I'll order a set of cozies from you after this Thursday. I saw two models---PRO and regular. My understanding is that I can't go with the PRO, because my warmers possibly don't have the extra velcro, correct?
Correct,, but check and see if you have the fuzzy loop part on the edge,, if so we can.
But I expect you would need the regular style.
We don"t use the polar fleece now we use a windproof/waterproof fabric. When we tested different materials we found this was the best.Much easier to instal as well.
Your warmers should be pretty current,, I want to say about 3 years old now,,,but would have to see them. They should have all the latest insulation.
And yes they have thermostats built in. So have fun. I'm making some cozies now so I'll save a set as this is prime cozy weather!
John
But I expect you would need the regular style.
We don"t use the polar fleece now we use a windproof/waterproof fabric. When we tested different materials we found this was the best.Much easier to instal as well.
Your warmers should be pretty current,, I want to say about 3 years old now,,,but would have to see them. They should have all the latest insulation.
And yes they have thermostats built in. So have fun. I'm making some cozies now so I'll save a set as this is prime cozy weather!
John
The hardest thing on warmers is rolling them tight. The second is rolling them with the cords in.
The third ,,,,are friends! Friends should not lend friends warmers!
Here is a pics, which model is it? Old / Old with insulation / New..., and which cozies should I order. I'd go with the PRO if I had the option, but otherwise I'll just get the regulars. Thanks!
Here is a pics, which model is it? Old / Old with insulation / New..., and which cozies should I order. I'd go with the PRO if I had the option, but otherwise I'll just get the regulars. Thanks!
Their a few years older. They do have insulation but not the insulation we use now. They'll be fine and you need the regular cozzies that you pull on.
No worries you'll be fine!
Alright. I'll order the regular cozies later tonight. BTW, out of curiosity, these warmers---if they ever break down, would you take up orders to service them, are they serviceable? Of course, that depends on the type of damage, obviously not everything can be repaired. Just asking for future reference, thanks.
We service our warmers up to about 5-6 years old.
After that it is dependant on the care and use as to what can be done.
We commonly repair ripped out cords and broken connections. So most damage is repairable.
We actually make our warmers to allow us to repair them easier.
Great, good to know! I guess I have a couple of years then
Just placed an order for a set of cozies.
FriendlyFoe
Well-known member
Bahaha! That made my day, so true. For some reason it always seems to end badly.
We get so many warmers that somebody lent to a friend and they came back wrecked! So people,,,Don't lend your warmers!
|
|
|
|
|