painting dirt bike chassis

S

sixstring

Well-known member
I recently got myself a ratty KLR that has a slightly rusty frame. I'd like to strip it down and clean it up over the winter but I'm not sure how to paint the frame. I'm not looking for something that is pretty, just something that is super tough and resistant to gravel, rocks, trees, moisture and extreme temperatures... not to mention gas, coolant, oil etc.

I've thought about powder coating but from what I understand, as strong as PC is, if a chip develops, it can't really be repaired without stripping and refinishing the entire frame again? Or is PC so strong that chips arn't likely? Anyone with an off road bike with a PCed frame?

I've also looked into Eastwood's 2k chassis paint. 2k paint overall sounds like it's very strong and repairable as well. However, I haven't found much info on off road vehicle applications.

Cheers for any info
 
First off how old is it, and how many kms?
 
Powdercoat without a doubt. It's relativly cheap and lasts a long time even with lots of off-road abuse, your boots actually do the most damadge.
 
Steel frame should be fine. The warping that happens in rims is caused by high temperatures and low boiling point of the aluminum and softer metals in alloy rims.
 
if you go the powdercoat route mask any surfaces where bearing or bushings insert, any threaded spots. PC is a large pain to scrape out and re tap holes. Personally I'd just hang it and spray paint it.
 
crankcall said:
if you go the powdercoat route mask any surfaces where bearing or bushings insert, any threaded spots. PC is a large pain to scrape out and re tap holes. Personally I'd just hang it and spray paint it.
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If the coater knows what he's doing, none of that would be a problem.
OP, PM JohnnyP636, he'll get it done right and cheap.
 
Cheap is the way to go on a KLR.
 
Mina said:
If the coater knows what he's doing, none of that would be a problem.
OP, PM JohnnyP636, he'll get it done right and cheap.
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Bingo. Generic powder coater would be a hassle. I've used 2 different powder coaters for angle iron frames and lintels, no problem. Industrial door frame requiring minimal taping became a hurdle. Like dealing with fricken roofers. Could not imagine using these guys for anything nice and/or intricate. JohnnyP636, being an enthusiast, would better understand the requirements.
 
It's a 2002 with 55,500 kms. Roughly 5000kms a year. Definately well ridden.

It's not littered with rust but I'd just like to clean up whatever is there.

Definately want to have this done cheaply. Like Ronnie says, it's a KLR :p

The PC advocates, have you guys owned/witnessed a powder coated dirt bike being put through it's paces over the course of a couple of years? I'd be much less concerned with PC's durability if chips/cracks were repairable.
 
For DIY and not too expensive, POR15 is a good option.

Ill be doing the underside and any suspension parts that I re-use on my trans am restoration with this stuff. Lots of guys use it for the same thing.
 
POR15 should be topcoated or it will fail over time. also dont get it on your hands, you will have black hands for a long time. If the rust isnt too bad I would just wire wheel it then hit it with rustoleum.
 
Dave L said:
POR15 should be topcoated or it will fail over time. also dont get it on your hands, you will have black hands for a long time. If the rust isnt too bad I would just wire wheel it then hit it with rustoleum.
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Rustoleum and Tremclad always seem so soft. Counter guy at Sherwin-Williams told me to cut it with paint thinner a bit and add a hardener like Japanese dryer. I don't know how good that info is but for sure Rustoleum/Tremclad alone won't stand up on a bike frame.
 
powdercoat if done well as others have mentioned is a nice uniform finish, its in the prep work. I've just seen too many botch jobs because owner thought shop would mask, shop thought product was good to go.
Japan drier isnt a hardener, its a drier, by thinning a product like tremclad and drying it faster (japan drier) you get a thinner coat which in turn appears harder.

with a KLR for my money, I'd clean it up and take it to a local body shop. They already have shiney black paint in the cupboard, and the thinner, cleaner and mess. Your not out $40 in product, the mess and issues. They would use about a cup full of paint and if they charged you $100-200 bucks you'd be ahead of the game IMO
 
crankcall said:
powdercoat if done well as others have mentioned is a nice uniform finish, its in the prep work. I've just seen too many botch jobs because owner thought shop would mask, shop thought product was good to go.
Japan drier isnt a hardener, its a drier, by thinning a product like tremclad and drying it faster (japan drier) you get a thinner coat which in turn appears harder.

with a KLR for my money, I'd clean it up and take it to a local body shop. They already have shiney black paint in the cupboard, and the thinner, cleaner and mess. Your not out $40 in product, the mess and issues. They would use about a cup full of paint and if they charged you $100-200 bucks you'd be ahead of the game IMO
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$100-200 for paint wouldn't be better then powder coat IMO, when I do powder coating for motorcycle frames for that price range also....If hes willing to spend between $100-200 powder coating is the way to go....I havent done a KRL but I have done a few dirt bike frames, and many sport bike frames....

I actually have a CRF450R frame in the shop right now being re done, the customer tried painting it himself, came out really nice but after only one season it started to look like crap. It is chipping, peeling, and scratching. So he has now stripped that and wants it powder coated instead
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