PA motorcycle lift hacks | GTAMotorcycle.com

PA motorcycle lift hacks

timtune

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I found that placing the ramp on the lift was a little fiddle fook because you have to kind of do it "blind". So painted the matching triangles to help me align it. But it it didn't really help.
THEN I took a closer look underneath and found large burrs on both the holes in the deck and the pins on the ramp. I gave the holes a generous countersink and ground dull points on the pins. What a difference.
I also pop rivetted a a piece of 1 1/2" ABS pipe with a slot cut down it length underneath the deck to make a nice holder for the foot pump pedal
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I got rid of the flimsy wheel chock that came with it and bolted on a Princess Auto chock. Makes the bike a lot more stable and much easier for getting the bike on/off.

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I have the same lift, black with yellow frame, hydraulic / pneumatic, great value. I used it with a 750 lb ST1100 and now with my Tracer.

Purchased it used without a chock, PO threw the OEM chock away as he said it was junk. Never needed a chock as 99% of the time I'm using the lift both wheels are coming off. Bike on center stand with this holding it up.

 
I have the same lift, black with yellow frame, hydraulic / pneumatic, great value. I used it with a 750 lb ST1100 and now with my Tracer.

Purchased it used without a chock, PO threw the OEM chock away as he said it was junk. Never needed a chock as 99% of the time I'm using the lift both wheels are coming off. Bike on center stand with this holding it up.


How are you lifting your Tracer (I also have one) with that? ^^^
Trying to picture where the C shaped lift points would go.
 
Agreed the supplied chock is junk. I bolted a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle to the far end so I wouldn't roll off the front end. I also bought the same lift that @ReSTored did.
As for the lift points on it you may be forced to make some kind of adapter. They didn't work on SOHC due to the pipe so I made something that mate up with where the C stand used to be.
 
Agreed the supplied chock is junk. I bolted a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle to the far end so I wouldn't roll off the front end. I also bought the same lift that @ReSTored did.
As for the lift points on it you may be forced to make some kind of adapter. They didn't work on SOHC due to the pipe so I made something that mate up with where the C stand used to be.
Mine came with an angled metal plate at the front as well as the chock, so I just kept the plate on to stop it from rolling.

Also just bought a Baxley which should be better.
 
I added side rails to my Harbor Freight (not PA, sorry) motorcycle lift. Used some 2x4, brackets, and hardware from the hardware store up the street.

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I had to buy a hammer drill to get through the table, so all in this project cost me $100.

For the money the side rails were really nice for allowing me to just ride my bike right up and on the lift, which was nice for heavier bikes. I think I only weighed like 140 lbs at the time lol

Full write up here if anyone wants more details: How To DIY Motorcycle Table Lift Side Extensions
 
Is that a lift? Pics?
The Baxley is a chock. Still sitting in my garage and need to mount it, but will be easier than propping up on the centre stand all the time.

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How are you lifting your Tracer (I also have one) with that? ^^^
Trying to picture where the C shaped lift points would go.

The PA scissor lift I linked was purchased for the ST1100 on the lift on the center stand. I removed the 2 C or U shaped brackets and just used a piece of 2 x 4 under the oil sump to lift the front end up so I could remove the wheel.

On the Tracer the same brackets are removed and, again, just use a small piece of 2 x 4 to push the front up and hold it. The Tracer is very neutral on the center stand, unlike the ST100. Very little weight is on the front wheel when on the CS, so no issue lifting the front end. Another option is to remove the rear wheel first and then use a Rubbermaid step stool under the swingarm and then use ratchet straps to clamp it down so you can remove the front wheel. Agree the shape of the sump and where the pipes are makes it a bit of a pain.

 
Also just bought a Baxley which should be better.

It is - not by much, but it is. I think the rubber base is softer and moves around a little less when loading/unloading. I also find that one of my PA chocks seems to really grab onto the front wheel and the whole chock tends to roll back as you try to back out, so I need to step on it to keep it down. No biggie for the massive savings compared to a new Baxley. They're also a little lighter, so I keep the Baxley on the lift.
 
Rounded off the front corners and drilled a hole for a tiedown in those corners to secure the front wheel
Added an adjustable chock but not a Baxley as I use that elsewhere and it takes up too much room on the lift


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It is - not by much, but it is. I think the rubber base is softer and moves around a little less when loading/unloading. I also find that one of my PA chocks seems to really grab onto the front wheel and the whole chock tends to roll back as you try to back out, so I need to step on it to keep it down. No biggie for the massive savings compared to a new Baxley. They're also a little lighter, so I keep the Baxley on the lift.

Oops, for some reason I had it in my mind you were comparing between Baxley and PA chock. Definitely the Baxley will be sturdier than the one included with the lift, and easier to use than your center stand.
 
Rounded off the front corners and drilled a hole for a tiedown in those corners to secure the front wheel
Added an adjustable chock but not a Baxley as I use that elsewhere and it takes up too much room on the lift


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That’s a nice chock too - which one is that?
 
Not sure the company that makes the chock that I mounted. I bought it from Cycle Improvements in Waterloo, they should know which company has them as it was in stock.
 

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