ontario driveclean - which codes cause fails??

ZX600 said:
I have done this twice with 2 different cars and it has worked.

Unplug and plug your battery, drive the car for over 30 km with a combination of street and hwy just before you take it to the drive clean test. I suspected both cars were going to fail, so i did this and they passed.

Of course this is at your own risk as i am not responsible if you fail and i have no technical information backing this up, it is just my experience
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This is what I do before a test even if I do not have a check engine light except I found a guide on line for my car that tells you all the driving conditions to cycle all the systems in 15-25 minutes. For example, accelerate to over 80kph and allow the vehicle to coast to 10kph, etc. I think there were 5 driving conditions to cycle everything for my car.
 
Does anyone know how I could increase the resistance in the fuel sending circuit? There are 2 wires which I measure the resistance between at 1-2 ohms which is too low. If I get this number up maybe the errors will go away, because the code Im getting is p0463 which states a high voltage reading. Any of this make sense?

I really dont wanna pull my gas tank.
 
Rossi86 said:
Damn, I have to go though this, and I have the CEL on after the gas tank was replaced with a new aftermarket one in my car. The code said EVAP system when the mechanic hooked it up. So if I disconnect the battery prior to going in to remove the CEL, I will it pass as long as CEL is not on? Assuming the emissions test goes well...
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Here's the catch

If you disconnect the battery and don't allow enough time for all the emission systems to do their thing you'll be given a "not ready" fail. If however you allow all of them to do their thing your evap will trigger the check engine light and you're done.

If you can time it right like zx600 did you'll pass.
If for example the light comes in after driving for 100 km and you reset it and go in after 75 you might get lucky.

Or take option number 2.

Right before you go in for the test reset it. Light will be off all systems will say not ready. Pretend you don't know whats going on and pay the 35 and take your fail.

Return the next day, drive the minimum required distance and disconnect the battery again. Go in again and pretend you don't know whats going on. Your car will be deemed not ready but you will be given a conditional pass, meaning you're good to go for another 2 years as long as you dont sell the car.
 
That seems too easy. I thought for a conditional pass you actually had to demonstrate that you spent some money trying to fix the problem....?
 
Paul1000RR said:
?.....Your car will be deemed not ready but you will be given a conditional pass, meaning you're good to go for another 2 years as long as you dont sell the car.
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BAHAHAHA....they don't even have to spend a min of $250 (or whatever it was) to try and repair their car to get a conditional pass???....what a joke.

edit: I went on the drive clean site and yes, it seems this will work...again, what a joke.
 
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mmmnaked said:
That seems too easy. I thought for a conditional pass you actually had to demonstrate that you spent some money trying to fix the problem....?
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There were a lot of problems with the new test and if your car isn't ready after the second try and no check engine light is on you get a pass.
Ofcourse if you're not smart enough to figure this out they'll happily start replacing parts and then give you a conditional pass as well
 
Paul1000RR said:
There were a lot of problems with the new test and if your car isn't ready after the second try and no check engine light is on you get a pass.
Ofcourse if you're not smart enough to figure this out they'll happily start replacing parts and then give you a conditional pass as well
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I just read that for you to get the conditional pass after a 2nd 'not ready' failure it must be at least 24 hours between tests, and the vehicle had to be driven 30+km, AND the battery/codes must not have been reset.
 
I don't recall the ecu logging last reset date. Not sure since I am haven't had a OBD car in a while :)

I have a q related to emission test. My cats collapsed and I had them replaced at a reputable oakville shop. I wasn't going for cheap. I was told I am getting magnaflows. I saw after a few months that I got eastern cats. Any one know whats up with these? Am I screwed? My car passed with very good numbers with it's original cats two years ago. Do these eastern even compare?


Sent from the future using my GOLDEN iPhone 30 SS
 
mmmnaked said:
I just read that for you to get the conditional pass after a 2nd 'not ready' failure it must be at least 24 hours between tests, and the vehicle had to be driven 30+km, AND the battery/codes must not have been reset.
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They can't tell if it has been reset or not...
 
Wow, just got back from getting my ride DC'd. Had no idea they don't do the rolling test on the dyno anymore. They just plug in to your cars computer and lets it diagnose your car from standstill.

Feel bad for all those sap garages that blew $70g's on that dyno set up thingy that is now redundant. :lol:

Good ole Province of Ontario.
 
mmmnaked said:
Kinda ridiculous that I can't find this out before plopping down the $40 (or whatever) to test the vehicle. I have my own OBD scanner and my truck returned an error with the fuel level sending unit... basically the gas gauge doesn't work. Common sense dictates this has nothing at all to do with emissions, but the system is retarded.

Anyone have a clue?
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I'd ask a tech before going in for the actual test if the particular code will cause your car not to pass. The one i dealt with seemed quite knowledgeable on the various codes, and what he's seen pass, and what he's seen fail.

Edit : sorry, he did absolutely say that if the check engine light is on, it would not pass. My local garage reset the codes and I disco'd and reco'd the battery and it seemed to do the trick and it hasn't come back. But I replaced the faulty part anyway (have parts bills to prove), because I'm not the type of guy to sell a knowingly faulty car to unsuspecting people.
 
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