ontario driveclean - which codes cause fails??

M

mmmnaked

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Kinda ridiculous that I can't find this out before plopping down the $40 (or whatever) to test the vehicle. I have my own OBD scanner and my truck returned an error with the fuel level sending unit... basically the gas gauge doesn't work. Common sense dictates this has nothing at all to do with emissions, but the system is retarded.

Anyone have a clue?
 
mmmnaked said:
Kinda ridiculous that I can't find this out before plopping down the $40 (or whatever) to test the vehicle. I have my own OBD scanner and my truck returned an error with the fuel level sending unit... basically the gas gauge doesn't work. Common sense dictates this has nothing at all to do with emissions, but the system is retarded.

Anyone have a clue?
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Check Light On = Fail...as simple as that.
 
No. It's not.

edit: I have shops telling me they hook up the scanners regardless?
 
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They are no longer the least bit interested in what comes out of the tail pipe. It's all done through the ECM now. As stated above, if the check engine light is on, it's a fail.

I don't care if it was free. It's a major inconvenience. Please ditch the Drive Clean program now!
 
Depending on your obd scanner it may tell you if its a fail or not. Mine does.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
It's never "fail" it's usually "not ready", in which case you just need to drive the car for at least 30 KM's. A decent OBD scanner can help.
 
Mina said:
It's never "fail" it's usually "not ready", in which case you just need to drive the car for at least 30 KM's. A decent OBD scanner can help.
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That is if you have removed the CEL and the ECM hasn't done a full cycle since.
If the CEL is on your car will fail drive clean.
 
I have done this twice with 2 different cars and it has worked.

Unplug and plug your battery, drive the car for over 30 km with a combination of street and hwy just before you take it to the drive clean test. I suspected both cars were going to fail, so i did this and they passed.

Of course this is at your own risk as i am not responsible if you fail and i have no technical information backing this up, it is just my experience
 
ZX600 said:
I have done this twice with 2 different cars and it has worked.

Unplug and plug your battery, drive the car for over 30 km with a combination of street and hwy just before you take it to the drive clean test. I suspected both cars were going to fail, so i did this and they passed.

Of course this is at your own risk as i am not responsible if you fail and i have no technical information backing this up, it is just my experience
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Was the CEL on before you unplugged the battery?
The length of time or driving events it takes for the PCM to cycle through depends on the code that was set.
 
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ZX600 said:
I have done this twice with 2 different cars and it has worked.

Unplug and plug your battery, drive the car for over 30 km with a combination of street and hwy just before you take it to the drive clean test. I suspected both cars were going to fail, so i did this and they passed.

Of course this is at your own risk as i am not responsible if you fail and i have no technical information backing this up, it is just my experience
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If 2 out of 3 emission systems are ready then you're good to go after the reset.
 
My light comes on even after clearing the codes, pretty much right away. The part is faulty, but its got nothing at all to do with emissions.
 
I82l8 said:
Was the CEL on before you unplugged the battery?
The length of time or driving events it takes for the PCM to cycle through depends on the code that was set.
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yes it was
 
mmmnaked said:
My light comes on even after clearing the codes, pretty much right away. The part is faulty, but its got nothing at all to do with emissions.
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You can wire in a resistor into sending unit circuit, fooling the computer to think gas tank is half full. Problem solved!
 
Hmm, may be worth looking into. Unfortunately I'd still have to dig into the tank so I may as well fix the issue
 
Like others said: the car/truck must have no DTCs stored in ECU.

However up two 'not ready' in the readiness monitors (usually the EVAP) is acceptable for a pass.

As much as it's hated, the driveclean does do a bit of good: It's does serve as a barrier to all those rednecks who are trying to get their POSs' on the road.

As much as I hate to say it, if your car is more than 10 years old, it belongs in the scrap. Anyone puts a sentimental value on their cars or trucks should be sent to North Korea.
 
You're nuts if you think 10 year old cars should be scrapped. If it runs and drives clean and safe there's no reason to dump a car other than vanity.
 
Jinster81 said:
Like others said: the car/truck must have no DTCs stored in ECU.

However up two 'not ready' in the readiness monitors (usually the EVAP) is acceptable for a pass.

As much as it's hated, the driveclean does do a bit of good: It's does serve as a barrier to all those rednecks who are trying to get their POSs' on the road.

As much as I hate to say it, if your car is more than 10 years old, it belongs in the scrap. Anyone puts a sentimental value on their cars or trucks should be sent to North Korea.
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Lol. Keeping my car on the road does more for the environment than dumping it and continuing the consumerism cycle.

Rednecks don't really live in a drive clean area.


Sent from the future using my GOLDEN iPhone 30 SS
 
Damn, I have to go though this, and I have the CEL on after the gas tank was replaced with a new aftermarket one in my car. The code said EVAP system when the mechanic hooked it up. So if I disconnect the battery prior to going in to remove the CEL, I will it pass as long as CEL is not on? Assuming the emissions test goes well...
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