Only 2nd, 4th, and 6th Gears Working | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Only 2nd, 4th, and 6th Gears Working

bitzz said:
OK
Why do you think you need a C4?
That "made in poland" bearing wasn't a C4. The C4 would be part of the part number etched into it. 6004 N-C4
I can't think of why you would need a C4 in the transmission of a bike.
... and your transmission shaft isn't spinning any where near the RPM rating of a open 6004 bearing.
... and when you're installing bearings ALWAYS install them with the writing out.

Where have you tried to get this bearing? that sold you the wrong chinese bearing... (There's nothing wrong with VXB bearings, but if you're going to use 2R bearings with the seals pulled off in oil, wash the grease out of them. You don't want globs of grease floating around the transmission oil).
Call RBI or Canada Bearing on Tuesday.
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Brian P said:
C4 = high internal clearance. https://www.jesa.com/en/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Tableau-1-EN.png

SKF

www.skf.com www.skf.com

Minor digging through parts diagrams suggests that C4 is indeed what is specified ... but it isn't what was in there!
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The motorcycle is at a friends property and I did not take out the bearings last time I was there taking apart the engine. Once home I decided to follow the advice I received online and replace the main & counter-shaft bearings as they were exposed to load while the counter-shaft was broken. For most of the bearings this wasn't and issue as I was able to order it by the KTM part #. This last bearing they could not ordered. in the parts diagram the description for the part is "BALL BEARING 6004 C4 N So I was going based on that, and I don't know what N specifies but the first time I searched with the N it came up with NTN bearings so I thought the N in the description is a cut-off NTN.

Last night on another forum someone suggested a KTM parts place in Europe. I ordered the part and was notified they will have it in 2-3 days. I guess KTM dealers in Canada do not check with Europe and I took their word that it was discontinued and unavailable. I hope after 10 days of waiting I am not met with a wrong part =). May try to source one locally with a groove just in case.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Ahhhh
You're ordering bearings from the KTM dealer.

You're ALWAYS better served going to a bearing house. ALWAYS
For half the money you could have had a SKF explorer (a superior bearing) in C4 and N, the day you ordered it.

... and a 6004 is a standard bearing, it's not discontinued, replaced or superceded, in standard, N or C4. I've got a stack of them.
 
stnd said:
... and I don't know what N specifies...
Click to expand...
I believe you will find N is the bearing suffix code for the snap ring groove in the outer race.
 
bitzz said:
Ahhhh
You're ordering bearings from the KTM dealer.

You're ALWAYS better served going to a bearing house. ALWAYS
For half the money you could have had a SKF explorer (a superior bearing) in C4 and N, the day you ordered it.

... and a 6004 is a standard bearing, it's not discontinued, replaced or superceded, in standard, N or C4. I've got a stack of them.
Click to expand...

Can you recommend a bearing house in the GTA?
 
So after a week of waiting, I received the wrong part :sneaky:

Same style bearing 6004, has the groove N, and is a C4. But it is closed, and the part number is for newer versions of my bike for the same function. I am emailing the supplier to check with KTM if possible.

Can oil get in through this cover? One of my input shaft bearings looks like this and is closed.
 

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Is not ideal but it's not difficult to make a sealed bearing leak.
 
The seals pop out easily just pop them out and discard.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Yep, just CAREFULLY pull the seals off.
Before you install them wash the grease out of them and soak them in motor oil.
 
Thanks, I will keep that as an option. The fact that one of the input shaft bearings I replaced had the exact same cover on makes me think i can just leave it on.
 
So the engine is back together and on the bike, I am waiting till later today to try to start it as I gave the Threebond gasket material 48 hours to cure. Looking for advice based on experience starting rebuilt engines (non lubricated more like it). I did use assembly lube on touching metal parts inside the crank, and brushed on some oil in the cylinder when mounting the piston. I also turned it by hand a few times to check the clearance as per the assembly instructions.

I have read a suggestion to disable the injector and sparkplug, and crank the engine using the starter 30 or so times till the oil pressure builds up.

Thanks.
 
After the mini has been sitting a while, I always disable the ignition and spin it until I get pressure. It takes a hell of a lot more than 30 revolutions to get pressure after a long nap. I don't know if it matters or not and it would get pressure in a lot fewer revolutions if I started it (pump at higher rpm pushing more oil), but it seems like a good idea to me.
 
Started great. It's really hot at the waterpump cover. Now I'm paranoid but I think its suppose to be too hot to touch. This was after 3 minutes running in neutral. Fluids topped up.
 
Check your coolant reservoir level again after it's been running a bit, fluid level might be lower once it burps out any air trapped in the rest of the system. Normal coolant operating temp is close to the boiling point of water so yes, it will be very hot to the touch, water pumps push the water so return coolant will actually be hotter then the pump side.

Does the fan kick on after a few minutes of idle, it probably should and once you have lots of forward motion, then it should actually turn back off. Otherwise the rad is struggling to perform up to spec for whatever reason.

"disable the injector and spark plug" <- kill switch should do that np.
 
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