[Not Solved] Lazy caliper pistons - cause for concern?

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as Brembo brakes go it's a cheap Brembo
 
sburns said:
I can't seem to find that info in the service manual or online parts explorer. I'll check user manual later.
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Pull a brake pad and take it to a shop that has an EBC brakes master catalogue.
In there you'll find life size pics of the pads, along with a listing of what they fit.
Odds are you'll find its the same caliper as something else, just a different logo and you can buy internal parts (seals, pistons, etc.).
 
TK4 said:
Pull a brake pad and take it to a shop that has an EBC brakes master catalogue.
In there you'll find life size pics of the pads, along with a listing of what they fit.
Odds are you'll find its the same caliper as something else, just a different logo and you can buy internal parts (seals, pistons, etc.).
Click to expand...

Good idea, but it's even easier than that. Download an EBC catalogue (EBC ecatalogues for Motorcycle & Automotive Brakes), look up your bike, then find out what else that pad fits.
 
Trials said:
If your wheel bearings are worn out, what do you suppose that does to the alignment between the brake disc and the calliper ;)
change those bearings! then you can forget about them for a while.
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So this wheel bearing tool isn't working at all. The collet isn't grabbing the bearing enough. I don't think they are seized in there, just a really tight fit. I believe I need to use a punch of some sort to tap them out.
Any ideas?
 
sburns said:
So this wheel bearing tool isn't working at all. The collet isn't grabbing the bearing enough. I don't think they are seized in there, just a really tight fit. I believe I need to use a punch of some sort to tap them out.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
You need the H-D special tool, without that its almost impossible. A normal bearing puller won't work.
 
sburns said:
So this wheel bearing tool isn't working at all. The collet isn't grabbing the bearing enough. I don't think they are seized in there, just a really tight fit. I believe I need to use a punch of some sort to tap them out.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Mr. Burns, have you consulted YouTube?
 
Wish you lived closer, I'd say bring it here. It won't be seized it's just a press fit,
if you could get that puller to grab half decent you could apply some heat to the hub and cold to the bearing but you really shouldn't need to.
... bottom line is your store bought tool does not work as good as the bits and bobs I found laying around the garage.

What's the correct model and year so we can look up a parts diagram and find the bearing numbers?

:unsure: how can a bearing puller need to be something special from Harley-Davidson, they don't make deep grove ball bearings, they buy them from the same places everybody else does.

... the problem with impacting the bearing is that it is almost impossible to pound them straight out, they can't come out crooked because the hole it sets in is virtually the same dimension as the bearing.
 
sburns said:
So this wheel bearing tool isn't working at all. The collet isn't grabbing the bearing enough. I don't think they are seized in there, just a really tight fit. I believe I need to use a punch of some sort to tap them out.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
How about a little tiny drop of crazy glue or aluminum foil between the collet and the bearing inner race :geek: if the collet is not grabbing good enough find a way to make it grab better.
... or can you file a notch in the tool to make it work more positively.
 
There are some challenges to using heat to expand the hub, the bearing is steel which expands and contracts lots and very quickly compared to the hub which is cast white metal. You need to make the bearing very cold before applying the heat to the hub, and you need to be careful with how much heat you use on the hub or you can damage it. Then you have a short time to work on these parts that are now too hot or too cold to touch :|

I'd be finding a way to make the collet work better first, make that stop sliding in the bearing and she has to come out.
 
I'm sorry....
$350 BUCKS FOR A BLIND HOLE PULLER??????

I got nothing against try to screw the Harley faithful, but that's usury.

Mr. Burns: heat the area around the bearing. LOTS OF HEAT Use a propane torch or a heat gun. GO NUTS
Get a can of compressed air, turn it up side down and spray the bearing, then IMMEDIATELY pull the bearing.
 
bitzz said:
I'm sorry....
$350 BUCKS FOR A BLIND HOLE PULLER??????

I got nothing against try to screw the Harley faithful, but that's usury.

Mr. Burns: heat the area around the bearing. LOTS OF HEAT Use a propane torch or a heat gun. GO NUTS
Get a can of compressed air, turn it up side down and spray the bearing, then IMMEDIATELY pull the bearing.
Click to expand...
I didn't pay that much for the tool. There are a variety of re-sellers of the exact tool at better prices.
The actual HD version of the tool (which is made by Jim Tools) is better how it pulls.

Ok thanks!
 
If google does not lie, your bearing is a 6205 a common and standard schedule bearing.
That would be a typical bearing to find in a manure spreader :| It's not even inch sized :unsure: 25mm bore, 52mm OD and 15mm wide.

Don't fall for the H-D makes anything unique or special, when it comes to wheel bearings they are far from special.

You can buy component cooler in a can under various trade names.
 
Update! Finally received my order from F9 for my clutch issue, will update that in a moment.

So I just took the wheel to HD and had them remove the old bearings and put new ones in.
Put the rear brake pads in, bleed the line.
Put it all back together went for a test run... no noise! no squealing (y) (y)
Break works as normal good pressure, I guess the calipers are ok (y)

BTW thanks @Trials you were right on about noise being the wheel bearings.
 
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:(
Went for a longer rider today.... and well that squeak returned! Not as bad as before but still present.

I am going back to my thought about it being something to do with the rear brake, which it might be the pad chattering around in the caliper.
HD supplies this brown paste with the pads (carbon?) to apply to the back of it. Probably to help dampen this issue. I might have to reply it and to some other spots where the pad touches the caliper, because I probably cleaned it too well.
 
Rider here today blew a seal right out of one rear brake piston, very strange.
It was a Beta. I suspect he will just replace the entire calliper assembly.

:) Riding was good, hardly any rain.
the brown paste is likely as high of temperature resistant grease as they can come up with.

... I would hit the brake disc with some emery cloth laid on a flat surface and then just replace the pads with brand new ones, possibly from a different manufacturer, like Galfer or something. Clean slate approach.
In fact I'm going to remove my both brakes right now and do that because they were not working 100% today.
If there is tons of material left on the brake pad you can resurface that with emery cloth or sandpaper too, just keep the face flat and not rounded, always lay the abrasive on a table saw or something very flat.
 
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