FLSTC
Well-known member
This is a good point and brings up one more idea - a varying idle (all over the place) may be due to a vacuum leak, the rubber boots from the carbs to the manifold may have a small crack or loose connection.
no idea what's going on with my bike... PLEASE HELP!!
- Thread starter cuteblackfox
- Start date
This is a good point and brings up one more idea - a varying idle (all over the place) may be due to a vacuum leak, the rubber boots from the carbs to the manifold may have a small crack or loose connection.
Chasem
Well-known member
Okay well simple solution -> http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=ON
Also there is a label on the pumps that tells you if it contains ethanol, as they legally need to disclose that information.
EDIT: I have not run 87 in years...... didn't realize how hard it is to get ethanol free 87. Although I wouldn't worry about the ethanol content on your bike..... It certainly wouldn't be causing the issue you're describing.
Don't fill up with 91 octane, start by doing some simple diagnostics... Like does the bike idle correctly without the choke on? what RPM does it idle at? does the idle go up and down by itself? (when warm)
As I said previously the bike should be idling at 1300 RPM when its warm.
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If the bike is used regularly ethanol should not be a problem. If it suddenly develops a stalling problem as noted above I highly doubt it's an ethanol problem.
dieselxx
Well-known member
Around 1250 to 1300 the bike ran well. But always needed adjusting depending on weather I noticed. The idle should also be much higher on a cold start with choke fully on. Then should settle down as you turn choke down when warm. But it should maintain around 1300 when fully warm and choke off.
Ethanol shouldn't be much of a problem. But I am going to assume here it's a used bike that changed many hands. Not everyone stores the bike properly and drains the tank or runs stabilizer through before storage. Hence water can form inside the tank from the ethanol being hygroscopic. Over time it will gum up the carbs.
I fully agree that this is an idle problem as in my other posts. I was just suggestING on the OP original comment about bad gas and future longevity of the carb.
Ethanol shouldn't be much of a problem. But I am going to assume here it's a used bike that changed many hands. Not everyone stores the bike properly and drains the tank or runs stabilizer through before storage. Hence water can form inside the tank from the ethanol being hygroscopic. Over time it will gum up the carbs.
I fully agree that this is an idle problem as in my other posts. I was just suggestING on the OP original comment about bad gas and future longevity of the carb.
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dieselxx
Well-known member
The new 300 are fuel injected but in North America the 250s were always carbureted from what I understand. Maybe the last year of production of the 250 was FI. Please correct me if it's wrong lol
cuteblackfox
Well-known member
I am going to say, that you need to keep the choke on a little longer.
My wife had the same problem. You think it doesn't need choke any more because it is running fine. First stop light. Stall.
She ran the battery out three blocks from home at 1:00 am, I had to go get her.
My wife had the same problem. You think it doesn't need choke any more because it is running fine. First stop light. Stall.
She ran the battery out three blocks from home at 1:00 am, I had to go get her.
Roadghost
Well-known member
Dump a can of carb/fuel injection cleaner from Canadian Tire in the tank, run it until the tank is empty then refill with fresh fuel. Clean your spark plugs with a wire brush. Check your plugs again after 100km of use. They should be a whitish-brown. If the stalling problem continues you have a lean condition. Spray a can of carb cleaner at the vacuum hoses around the carb while the bike is running, one hose at a time. When the bike begins to stumble you have found your leak.
Roadghost
Well-known member
You have to clean off the plugs after you use carb cleaner in your tank. Buying new ones is a complete waste of money and totally unnecessary.
Spraying propane, butane, acetone, quick start, ether, or any other highly flammable liquid on a running engine is dangerous. Spraying carb cleaner is far, far safer.
cuteblackfox
Well-known member
IF YOU LIVE In TORONTO/ SCARBOROUGH or close by and willing to help me. PRIVATE MESSAGE me
no idea where to clean or where I'm suppose to be looking. Soooo much info in the manual OMG. Going to get Shell 91 tomorrow.
Never heard of seafoam until today but that seems like it'll help. Spark plugs etc, no idea where that is.
yes sooooo much to learn, but I'm learning.
bought my first toolbox and tools few months ago.
no idea where to clean or where I'm suppose to be looking. Soooo much info in the manual OMG. Going to get Shell 91 tomorrow.
Never heard of seafoam until today but that seems like it'll help. Spark plugs etc, no idea where that is.
yes sooooo much to learn, but I'm learning.
bought my first toolbox and tools few months ago.
Azi
Member
Are you certain that it's not your voltage regulator or worst case scenario the Stator? keep an eye on the battery charge level while you ride. If the regulator/rectifier or Stator are fried, you're not charging the battery as you ride and hence the shut off...
I just replaced a voltage regulator due to the same symptoms...
I just replaced a voltage regulator due to the same symptoms...
DoubleJ
Well-known member
Plugs, boots, lines etc are all not easy to get at without first removing the tank. So dump the gas (syphon) use recomended Seafoam amount and a tank of 91 Shell and give it a hard run. Bump the idle up to 1500/1800. These bikes are jetted LEAN from the factory unless someone has been already into the carbs. The plastic cover will still be on the adjustment on the carb if still virgin. You won't know that till the tank is off.
As said previously they are normally cold blooded *******. I have a 250ZZR
As said previously they are normally cold blooded *******. I have a 250ZZR
Best advice so far. At some point you're going to want to get your anti-tamper fuel screw plugs drilled out whether it needs it or not (it'll need it) to adjust the idle mixture fuel screws to where god, not some government lackey, intended them to be.
LoneRonin
Well-known member
OP, first check your idle screw. Look it up on youtube, once the bike warms up it should not fluctuate. People talk about weak batteries and gummed carbs, I've had my bike since 09, 92000km never once took out the battery over winter and never cleaned the carbs. She starts up and idles better than when she was new.
IF the bike hasn't been neglected its actually not as common as its made out to be. Does the bike turn off after riding for a while once its had ample time to warm up or was it just near the start of your ride? Only time I've ever experienced something like this was when I had tight valves but that was after 50000km.
If the problem persists I don't mind taking a look at it sometime if you're around in the GTA before spending money on a mechanic for ********...I'm pretty sure I have more seat time on this bike than anyone in the GTA, I'll have a good idea if its acting up or not and where to go from there. Good luck.
IF the bike hasn't been neglected its actually not as common as its made out to be. Does the bike turn off after riding for a while once its had ample time to warm up or was it just near the start of your ride? Only time I've ever experienced something like this was when I had tight valves but that was after 50000km.
If the problem persists I don't mind taking a look at it sometime if you're around in the GTA before spending money on a mechanic for ********...I'm pretty sure I have more seat time on this bike than anyone in the GTA, I'll have a good idea if its acting up or not and where to go from there. Good luck.
