New Here; Building 2010 CBR600RR Track Bike | GTAMotorcycle.com

New Here; Building 2010 CBR600RR Track Bike

J

jamesjedi

Active member
Hi,

Just picked up a 2010 CBR600RR. Price was very reasonable....which means issues. I have a couple of questions. Also, BIKE HAS SAT FOR TWO YEARS.

1. I want to do a few a drain and fills of oil. What do you recommend? What oil? Brake fluid? Coolant?

2. Chains and sprockets: I would think steel is what I want. Which brand a ratio? TMP and Mosport - keep in mind I am having fun, but do need to change the chain.

3. Race fairings. I have spent a few hours on line. I think I have an idea. That said, what do you recommend?

Cheers and thank you!
 
It'd be a waste to "drain and fill the oil".

Just change it once.


Different ratios for different tracks.
Lets say stock is 16/43

Start with stock. Get a 15t front. Get a 45 rear. Should be able to use the same chain.

Go with a 520. Steel sprockets make sense on a streetbike. Track? The lighter the better.

Squidskins or ArmourBodies are good.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
If you are building a track bike ...

Just change the engine oil. Put anything into it. Those engines hardly care.

Brake fluid swap, definitely. You are actually supposed to change it every two years. Track bikes should get that more frequently.

Don't forget to change the fuel ... if it's been sitting 2 years, it's probably not good. Siphon it out and put it in your car (it will be fine once diluted) and fill it up with fresh fuel.

I betcha with fresh fuel installed, an oil change, and a healthy battery (the one that's in it is probably toast but give it a try first), it will start right up. Doesn't matter that it's been sitting two years.

Once you confirm that you have a runner then think about making it a track bike.

You will need water only in the cooling system ... glycol (of any sort) is not allowed. If it provides freeze protection, it's glycol, and not allowed. Obviously changing the cooling system to water is something that you should defer until the bike is in a place or time where the temperature isn't going below freezing any more.

The rest of it is all standard track-bike prep.
 
matt365 said:
It'd be a waste to "drain and fill the oil".

Just change it once.


Different ratios for different tracks.
Lets say stock is 16/43

Start with stock. Get a 15t front. Get a 45 rear. Should be able to use the same chain.

Go with a 520. Steel sprockets make sense on a streetbike. Track? The lighter the better.

Squidskins or ArmourBodies are good.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Good call on the bodywork. Cheap Chinese bodywork is usually not repairable. Squidskins is.
 
Terrific to have these responses so quickly!

I just had a look at the DOT dates on the tires. They say 2017, however they look almost brand new. Makes me think the bike may have sat at least two years.

Bike runs very well. Even though crappy fuel and oil that needs to be changed immediately. Which oil should I use? I know when you talk about oils, you put your head in the blender. However, there are some tried-and-true oils for track machines.

I will do a drain and fill at least twice. That is my nature.

Interesting that you say that cheap track fairings or not repairable? I shall look into the squidskins.

Steel chain sounds more durable, stronger. I am not sure what material they make the sprockets of.
 
Ummm, all motorcycle drive chains are steel, aluminium is not a suitable material for that application ... but you want a good chain, not a cheap one. Front sprockets are always steel because that is a higher-wear location ... the front sprocket spins three turns or thereabouts, for every single turn of the rear one, and the splines are a stress concentration that no aluminium sprocket would survive. Most people use aluminum sprockets for the rear sprockets but once again, you want a good quality hardened one, not a cheap one.

What is your knowledge / experience level? Have you read the sticky thread above ... this one The Beginner's Guide to Ontario Track Days
 
jamesjedi said:
Terrific to have these responses so quickly!

I just had a look at the DOT dates on the tires. They say 2017, however they look almost brand new. Makes me think the bike may have sat at least two years.

Bike runs very well. Even though crappy fuel and oil that needs to be changed immediately. Which oil should I use? I know when you talk about oils, you put your head in the blender. However, there are some tried-and-true oils for track machines.

I will do a drain and fill at least twice. That is my nature.

Interesting that you say that cheap track fairings or not repairable? I shall look into the squidskins.

Steel chain sounds more durable, stronger. I am not sure what material they make the sprockets of.
Click to expand...


Put a fresh set of tires on the bike, it's probably the most important thing you can do starting out at the track.

For a good quality oil try something like Motul5100, all the local bike shops usually have decent pricing on it.

Replace all fluids, check brake pads, air filter, spark plugs etc etc, as you don't know the history of the bike.

Squidskins is GTA local for bodywork. Bickle racing is GTA local also for everything you need track related. Both of these guys have been around for decades, and have a wealth of knowledge.
 
I did not realise that the bodywork could be obtained locally. I am going to contact Squidskins. Yes to changing all fluids.



Motul 5100, their web site recommends using 10w30. I see many use Rotella T6. This is not meant to be an oil debate. I assume the T6 has not changed its formulation. I may use to flush out the old oil, then use the Motul 5100 10w30.

Here is what I "think" I should order;

1. NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug 5766 - IMR9C-9HES

2. HiFloFiltro Air Filter - HFA1620

3. K&N Performance Gold Oil Filter

4. Front Galfer Sportbike Stainless Steel Hydraulic Brake Line, Rear Galfer Sportbike Stainless Steel Hydraulic Brake Line

5. RK 520 Steel Quick Acceleration Chain and Sprocket Kit - 1062-079PG
 
Filters use OEM Honda, you might be able to get them to price match the plugs as well.
 
jamesjedi said:
I did not realise that the bodywork could be obtained locally. I am going to contact Squidskins. Yes to changing all fluids.



Motul 5100, their web site recommends using 10w30. I see many use Rotella T6. This is not meant to be an oil debate. I assume the T6 has not changed its formulation. I may use to flush out the old oil, then use the Motul 5100 10w30.

Here is what I "think" I should order;

1. NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug 5766 - IMR9C-9HES

2. HiFloFiltro Air Filter - HFA1620

3. K&N Performance Gold Oil Filter

4. Front Galfer Sportbike Stainless Steel Hydraulic Brake Line, Rear Galfer Sportbike Stainless Steel Hydraulic Brake Line

5. RK 520 Steel Quick Acceleration Chain and Sprocket Kit - 1062-079PG
Click to expand...
I'd just run the t6. I use it in all my bikes.

HiFlo oil filters are good too, and cost effective. I heard they were made in the same factory as the Honda OEM branded filters.

The rest of your list looks good.

I would have no problem running tires with a 2017 date code.

The first few trackdays you'll be learning the bike and working out any bugs... what rubber is currently on it? Something sporty I assume.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
Really, the only thing you must do is replace the coolant with water or Water Wetter, and make sure every bolt is properly torqued, and read the tech requirements for the organization(s) and group that you intend to ride in. Even if your org & group doesn't require it, you really should also safety-wire the oil filter, filler cap, and drain bolt, and the radiator cap and drain bolts. Spend some money on pre-drilled fasteners (eg: pro-bolt.com) or cobalt drill bits instead of go-fast parts, at least for the first season.

You can probably skip the steel rear brake line. A lot of us, especially in the lower groups, don't use the rear brake at all on track. And some of those who do use the rear brake intentionally want it squishy so it's less likely to lock.
 
You can never have tires that are too fresh.
Buying a retired racebike is usually a bit cheaper (and better) than building your own.
Don't scrimp on gear. Get fitted for a one piece and make sure you are wearing your bap and d-air. Daytona or Dainese boots.
 
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I truly appreciate the responses.

Helmet? Snell yes. Which one? I have been researching and finding all kinds of helmets. Is there a “go to” helmet? I will keep researching.

Parts ordered.

PDF manual for repairs and torque specs? Is there one to download?
 
jamesjedi said:
I truly appreciate the responses.

Helmet? Snell yes. Which one? I have been researching and finding all kinds of helmets. Is there a “go to” helmet? I will keep researching.

Parts ordered.

PDF manual for repairs and torque specs? Is there one to download?
Click to expand...
"Go to" is whichever brand fits your head properly.

Eg. Oval head. Medium. The Hjc rpha series fits me well. Shoei rf1200 does too.

I'd rather buy a cheaper helmet (still rated ece and/or snell) and replace it more often; rather than spend a grand on a lid...

Higher cost = lighter, better venting, more features... not necessarily more protection.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
jamesjedi said:
I’m looking at your suggestions.

What about repair manual? A good one.
Click to expand...
I'd start looking for a .pdf shop manual.

You can get a clymer off fortnine for $37 bucks. Cost me more than that to print a hard copy of a .pdf file at a local print shop.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
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