In vast majority of cases no.
You'd probably know (since you're a fellow dev), some software does actually use **** tons of RAM intentionally (3D modelling for me is an example.) For typical usage like gaming and what not, it's not useful (yet.)
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New computer first world problems
- Thread starter Baggsy
- Start date
In vast majority of cases no.
You'd probably know (since you're a fellow dev), some software does actually use **** tons of RAM intentionally (3D modelling for me is an example.) For typical usage like gaming and what not, it's not useful (yet.)
Chris-CJ
Well-known member
side note: if you are on WIN 10 and plan to upgrade to WIN 11, will the h/w pass WIN's pre-upgrade certification?
Windows 11 Specs and System Requirements | Microsoft
Find an overview of Windows 11 specs and features from Microsoft. Learn about the device specifications, versions and languages available for Windows 11
www.microsoft.com
Microsoft used to have a utility that you give you a pass/fail, then they took it down. In the meantime, somebody else wrote their own utility that gives more detailed info, based on the requirements that Microsoft is currently listing: GitHub - rcmaehl/WhyNotWin11: Detection Script to help identify why your PC is not Windows 11 Release Readyside note: if you are on WIN 10 and plan to upgrade to WIN 11, will the h/w pass WIN's pre-upgrade certification?
Windows 11 Specs and System Requirements | Microsoft
Find an overview of Windows 11 specs and features from Microsoft. Learn about the device specifications, versions and languages available for Windows 11www.microsoft.com
Note that they could change their mind about the requirements at any time, as under the hood it's not any different than Windows 10. The current preview build of 11 will install and run on my 2500K just fine once the hardware checks are disabled
Chris-CJ
Well-known member
good info, thanks!
re: The current preview build of 11 will install and run on my 2500K just fine once the hardware checks are disabled.
Does the WIN 11 installation dialog provide the option to disable the h/w checks or is there separate manual intervention required (please share the method)
Thanks.
re: The current preview build of 11 will install and run on my 2500K just fine once the hardware checks are disabled.
Does the WIN 11 installation dialog provide the option to disable the h/w checks or is there separate manual intervention required (please share the method)
Thanks.
Assuming my switches can handle a straight through Cat 6 cable.
Why do I need the orange or the green wires separated (see pinout)?
Is there interference if they're wrapped together?
It's kind of a pain to get them threaded into the ends with the two wires split like that.
Is it necessary?
Why do I need the orange or the green wires separated (see pinout)?
Is there interference if they're wrapped together?
It's kind of a pain to get them threaded into the ends with the two wires split like that.
Is it necessary?
Yes. It's necessary. I tried connecting wires in order by colour before. Electrically tested fine. No data would pass. Must be something to do with the arrangement of the twisted pair and how the standard deals with noise cancelling. Half my house was prewired with A, half with B and nothing terminated in the garage (or labelled whether they used A or B or where the wires came from.Assuming my switches can handle a straight through Cat 6 cable.
Why do I need the orange or the green wires separated (see pinout)?
Is there interference if they're wrapped together?
It's kind of a pain to get them threaded into the ends with the two wires split like that.
Is it necessary?
There are a couple of issues embedded in your questions.
Q: Why can't you just run the colours straight through, matching pin-out from one jack to the same pin-out on the other side, and not separate out pins 3 and 6?
A: Because of crosstalk. Pinouts 3 and 6 are the RD+ (Receive Data Positive) and RD-. These need to be intertwined in a single twisted pair so they can eliminate interference and degradation from the other wires in the bundle.
Q: Ok fine, then why are pins 3 and 6 separated at the jack? Why does the Ethernet (or more specifically, the MDI) specification make it so difficult to crimp? Wouldn't it be easier to have the orange/orange-white twisted pair terminate at pinouts 3 and 4?
A: Because the original specification for T568A had to be backwards compatible with the old USOC standard that 4-pin telephone jacks (RJ-11) used. If you look at the original USOC spec, you'll see the logic:
The inside 4 pins of T568A had to preserve compatibility with USOC. You can see if you plugged a RJ-11 telephone plug into an ethernet port, the first phone line is carried by pins 4 & 5, and the second phone line is carried by pins 3 & 6. I assume that after that, T568 didn't care any more, so they just paired pinouts 1 & 2 and 7 & 8 together to make it easier for crimpers?
And that, kids... is how I met your mother...
Any tips for building these cables? Mine either take a really long time to put the ends on, or a moderate time, while having a long neck of wires like this:
This isn't super helpful, but you've untwisted too much cable there. Besides increasing crosstalk, I think it actually makes it harder to insert the wires if they're untwisted too much? (Don't remember super clearly, I haven't terminated a cable in a few years)
Practice. As TK said, way too much wire there. I find it easiest to strip outer sheath back ~1.5", straighten and arrange all the wires (pinch them between finger and thumb to maintain orientation), clip them off to ~3/4" and then slide the end on. Once they are straight and in order, never let them go until the end is on. Crimp and test. If you get the length correct, the outer sheath should be grabbed by the big rectangular snap on the termination. My lengths are from memory, they need adjusted slightly depending on your ends. The Cat 6 ends I have now are two part with the wires going into a guide block and then the guide block goes into the plug. Not a huge fan of that design.
The pass thru is great because you can make the leads longer and orient them easier and further down the line they stay twisted, poke it thru the connector until it hits the sheath and voila
That looks easier than any I have ever done. Mine are like the pic below. I don't get paid to terminate cables anymore and too cheap to throw out the bags I have. If I ever need to buy more, I'll get your style.
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