Kri$han
Well-known member
Pre-stretched! this checks out. chain link count is good.
I like this, and will go this route - thank you!
New Chain time - DIY Help Needed!
- Thread starter Kri$han
- Start date
Pre-stretched! this checks out. chain link count is good.
I like this, and will go this route - thank you!
waitin4BOOST
Well-known member
I just used that cheapy tool ($42 from Kapsco in Ajax, cuz I was desperate and wanted now lol) to snap a 520 on a CBR500r. I ground off the rivet head flush, had no problems popping the old chain off, cut new chain to size, pressed the new link on and riveted the master link together; for assurance used a caliper to measure everything up. Chain will need adjustments since they stretch from new so keep an eye on that.
J_F
Guest
sprockets that look okay can be not okay
as chains wear the pitch gets longer
and the sprockets will wear to match that pitch
so when a new chain with original pitch is installed
old sprockets still have the longer pitch and eat the new chain
at over 60,000 km it's safe to say those sprockets are done
as chains wear the pitch gets longer
and the sprockets will wear to match that pitch
so when a new chain with original pitch is installed
old sprockets still have the longer pitch and eat the new chain
at over 60,000 km it's safe to say those sprockets are done
slowbird
Well-known member
To remove an old chain I use a huge set of Bolt cutters. I don't remember the size but I think it's 24". Got it on sale at crappy tire many years ago.
I purchased the MotionPro chain kit and the tool in the kit that breaks the links broke quite easily. Maybe I used it wrong
but after that happened I went the Bolt cutter route and it works real well.
I purchased the MotionPro chain kit and the tool in the kit that breaks the links broke quite easily. Maybe I used it wrong
but after that happened I went the Bolt cutter route and it works real well.
I take an angle grinder and remove the head of one rivet. I then use the chain breaker to push the pin out. I use a small zip-tie to connect the last link from the old chain to the first link of the new one; as I pull the old chain from around the countershaft sprocket the new one is installed automatically. All that's left is to join the ends of the new chain with the master link and set the rivet heads (I'd never use a clip-style link on the street myself; YMMV).
This procedure is nice if the sprockets are in good shape. If the sprockets are to be replaced, there's little benefit to the zip-tie method.
This procedure is nice if the sprockets are in good shape. If the sprockets are to be replaced, there's little benefit to the zip-tie method.
Iceman
Well-known member
Angle grinder is key. My first chain tool kit I bent the part that pushes out the pin because I didn't grind off the head. I know better now.
Sent from my SM-A500W using Tapatalk
Kri$han
Well-known member
So, I tried this, and screwed it up.
- Started by grinding the heads off the old master link pin, assembled the tool and broke the chain quite easily.
- Then proceeded to clean the sprockets, and -most of- all surrounding areas - there was 60k worth of Motul Chain fling in there! it took almost an hour and a half, ugh.
- took out the new chain, threaded it over the sprockets and assembled the rivet master, then it went to ****:
To start off; the 525 VX chain I bought has a VERY SLIGHTLY larger pin spacing than the press body that comes with my tool.
Not the end of the world, I grabbed a 1/4" drill bit (6.35mm) and drilled out the 6mm holes. It *JUST BARELY* worked. I shouldda bought a regular O-Ring chain. This is it after I drilled it out:
I hooked up the tool, and I ended up clamping the master link plate about 0.30mm too far. I tried to google the effects of this, but couldn't find any horror stories - just people stressing how important it is that one does not do this.
Standard width:
Incorrectly clamped, narrow master:
The X-ring gaps are noticeably narrower:
Not knowing whether or not to proceed; I proceeded anyway and decided to assemble the rivet staking tool, and placed it over the 1st pin head.
Well, the only thing that flared was the rivet tool itself - the pins held steady at 5.45mm in diameter (same as out of the box), and my tool is buggered. The rounded head of the tool just pressed into the center hole of the rivet, and it did not stake it at all - This might be because there is too much exposed pin (since it's clamped to narrowly), but I don't know for sure. I don't even know if there's a way to salvage what I have on there now.
Based on the pin-spacing being off, and the rivet anvil not doing it's job, I can't say I'd recommend that el-cheapo tool above (it didn't even come with instructions!), but it could have easily been my fault. I guess the tolerance on clamping the master link is WAY less than 0.30mm.
Master link is still waiting for rivet staking, although I'm thinking I should remove it altogether and try something else.
Can anyone with a tool come by my place and hook a brother up? I missed all that sweet weather waiting for parts, and effectively ended my riding season :sad:
- Started by grinding the heads off the old master link pin, assembled the tool and broke the chain quite easily.
- Then proceeded to clean the sprockets, and -most of- all surrounding areas - there was 60k worth of Motul Chain fling in there! it took almost an hour and a half, ugh.
- took out the new chain, threaded it over the sprockets and assembled the rivet master, then it went to ****:
To start off; the 525 VX chain I bought has a VERY SLIGHTLY larger pin spacing than the press body that comes with my tool.
Not the end of the world, I grabbed a 1/4" drill bit (6.35mm) and drilled out the 6mm holes. It *JUST BARELY* worked. I shouldda bought a regular O-Ring chain. This is it after I drilled it out:
I hooked up the tool, and I ended up clamping the master link plate about 0.30mm too far. I tried to google the effects of this, but couldn't find any horror stories - just people stressing how important it is that one does not do this.
Standard width:
Incorrectly clamped, narrow master:
The X-ring gaps are noticeably narrower:
Not knowing whether or not to proceed; I proceeded anyway and decided to assemble the rivet staking tool, and placed it over the 1st pin head.
Well, the only thing that flared was the rivet tool itself - the pins held steady at 5.45mm in diameter (same as out of the box), and my tool is buggered. The rounded head of the tool just pressed into the center hole of the rivet, and it did not stake it at all - This might be because there is too much exposed pin (since it's clamped to narrowly), but I don't know for sure. I don't even know if there's a way to salvage what I have on there now.
Based on the pin-spacing being off, and the rivet anvil not doing it's job, I can't say I'd recommend that el-cheapo tool above (it didn't even come with instructions!), but it could have easily been my fault. I guess the tolerance on clamping the master link is WAY less than 0.30mm.
Master link is still waiting for rivet staking, although I'm thinking I should remove it altogether and try something else.
Can anyone with a tool come by my place and hook a brother up? I missed all that sweet weather waiting for parts, and effectively ended my riding season :sad:
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I know some master links come with spacers to maintain the correct spacing, but I guess not all of them do
Edit: Almost everything was wrong
Edit: Almost everything was wrong
Last edited:
Kri$han
Well-known member
Yeah, I'm not sure how there wouldn't be enough room, though...? The side of the tool shown above is (was) the anvil, and on the opposite side there is a cup that seats onto the far side of the pin. So the tool is just compressing the pin; the only thing that should have given is the pin itself, but I guess the tool's anvil was too soft?
At the time, I thought that if the pin was sticking out too far, the anvil would flare it out *more*, if anything, but what do i know (don't answer that)
I really hope someone here with the tool sees this post and saves me.
Right! I definitely misunderstood what was going on there. I was a little confused, because I thought you had a weird chain tool, but I was mentally reversing it for some reason. (I have installed chains before! 
)
)
Kri$han
Well-known member
Update: Internet digging:
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID Chain Tool Inst_150.pdf
Read the last line on the last page highlighted in red. Stupid me had to go buy a lousy chain (that's definitely overkill for a 650!) that needs a "special" tool for riveting SOB
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID Chain Tool Inst_150.pdf
Read the last line on the last page highlighted in red. Stupid me had to go buy a lousy chain (that's definitely overkill for a 650!) that needs a "special" tool for riveting SOB
I have installed 2 530VX chains on my FZ6 and a 525VX on my V-Strom. Not sure why you think it's overkill, it's the first chain I check out when I need a new chain. Don't know what that rivet pin is about, but my fake MotionPro has riveted all of them.
Who makes the screw-type product? DID, RK...
JP0160
Well-known member
Riceburner
Well-known member
Thanks Riceburner, that's exactly what I'm looking for
