Another vote for a a Pre-2008 KLR 650. I've had so much fun on mine this year Dumped it about 5 times while off-road. It's reasonably easy to pick up and seems very tough.
The older BMW boxer twins are a very comfortable bulletproof bike. Tons of low end torque. I have the 2001 R1100S. It reads your mind in corners. Roll-ons are amazing from any RPM in any gear. The engines go forever - mine has 40K kms - barely broken in.
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