Load bearing wall removal | GTAMotorcycle.com

Load bearing wall removal

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SVeezy

Well-known member
As the title implies I’m looking to knock down a load bearing wall in my house. It’s been hard to get quotes and while I think I have a general idea of the cost it would be nice to get a couple quotes so I can be sure I’m not getting ripped off.

Any recommended contractors? Anyone here knowledgeable on the topic willing to chime in? I’m in Scarborough.


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You're going to need it engineered first, then you can contract it.
 
What you are proposing is basically the same process you would do if your were going to move or straighten the house, except the steel you put in there to hold everything up is going to need to stay there forever ?
 
you can substitute a studded, load bearing wall
with vertical beams and a header

like trials says
get someone to do the engineering for you
that's the hard part, the rest can be DIY
 
You can get the general idea from tables but the building departments seem to be wanting engineered drawings with a stamp. Probably a CYA thing.

Everything presses down on something else and everything has to be accounted for, what's above and what's below.
 
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CYA for the homeowner as well

if something happens down the road
and you're looking for insurance coverage
related to the wall mod or not

no stamped drawings/permit?
to tickey no laundry

CYA
 
Nothing wrong with having a plan and then running it past an engineer for a stamp of approval.
What are you actually trying to remove?
 
All valid points I’m well aware of. Love the departed reference btw.

Guess I’m just looking for references to good contractors. No rush.


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You're probably looking at sandwiched 2x8's or LVL beams supported by several 2x4's on either side (depending on the span). I'm not trying to make it sound too simple, but wanted to remind you that you may find some wiring in there that will add to your cost once the walls are opened. Relocating old wiring is not simple or cheap. And that is first hand experience.

Edit: I'm sure you've looked up you tube videos, but here's one that show's whats involved:
 
At the moment we don't know if the OP is trying to remove a concrete and brick wall that is the full length of the building :|
imho you don't need a good contractor until you have something to contract the construction of. That requires a plan.
Architectural Drafting, then you design a beam and supports, Structural Engineering.
Those were my majors at Central Tech :cool: architectural drafting sucked, I don't recommend it.
structural engineering and survey were excellent courses(y)
 
Plaster and lathe wall, spans the whole first floor. Will almost certainly need a steel beam not lvl.

Trials, are you offering to draft it up

Edit: before anyone pipes up the wall also has studs

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SVeezy said:
Plaster and lathe wall, spans the whole first floor. Will almost certainly need a steel beam not lvl.

Trials, are you offering to draft it up

Edit: before anyone pipes up the wall also has studs

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Click to expand...

pretty easy to straighten up with screw jacks under the beam
even a saggy old roof can be brought back that way

but you also have to look at what's under the jacks
like in the basement/crawlspace
may need jacks/footings down there too
 
SVeezy said:
Plaster and lathe wall, spans the whole first floor. Will almost certainly need a steel beam not lvl.

Trials, are you offering to draft it up

Edit: before anyone pipes up the wall also has studs

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Click to expand...
Ah, a historic building :{ the wall will have been constructed with undressed lumber. Likely very substandard,
any electrical wiring in it ? That might be a can of worms.
How many floors are there? & what is immediately above and below the wall to be removed? Residential or commercial?

Yes, you have to start at ground level and then some.
 
... I like steel beams, way stronger, very price competitive if you don't want to see the beam, lower profile.

How about timber frame construction? If the building lends itself to it and you have deep pockets :cool: move your supports inside and make them pretty.
timber.jpg
 
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Bunch of jokers here, no surprise lol

Span is about 20-25’ iirc. Too lazy to get the tape measure atm.

2 floors above ground

Basement has 2 supporting columns in between the exterior supports

My pockets are as shallow as possible. Ideally I’d have no pockets and the job would get done ?

That being said I’d rather have things done right once.


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If you're not a DIY guy, I'd consult an architect before reaching out to a contractor. Consult is going to cost couple hundred, but you might find a range of options that are more economically practical.

If you want general advice here, you'd have to provide a few more details.

1) Do you have a second floor?
2) Is the roof trussed or stick framed?
3) What is the span of the new opening? Can it be split in 2?
4) (This might be a dumb question but...) Are you certain the wall is load bearing?

Other things you need to consider are embedded plumbing, heating, & wiring - that can get really expensive to reroute.
 
Here's my basement 7 years ago. Just do it.

Also: You can stagger lvls to span that distance so long as one end of each beam is supported.
 

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Mad Mike said:
If you're not a DIY guy, I'd consult an architect before reaching out to a contractor. Consult is going to cost couple hundred, but you might find a range of options that are more economically practical.

If you want general advice here, you'd have to provide a few more details.

1) Do you have a second floor?
2) Is the roof trussed or stick framed?
3) What is the span of the new opening? Can it be split in 2?
4) (This might be a dumb question but...) Are you certain the wall is load bearing?

Other things you need to consider are embedded plumbing, heating, & wiring - that can get really expensive to reroute.
Click to expand...

Yes there is a second floor

Roof is trussed

Span is ~22’. There are two point loads (excluding the exterior walls) so most likely two supporting columns or the steel beam on the exterior load supports which is what I’m wanting

Yes the wall is definitely load bearing. I wish it wasn’t because that would be so much cheaper

Plumbing is thankfully at the back wall and not much electrical to deal with imo


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