i plan on purging before and after to prevent it from solidifying in engine when it cools. don't really want to do the refinery thing.
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Let the fuel savings begin
- Thread starter franktomas
- Start date
The Niagara Parks Police ran propane powered K-Cars in the late 80s. We used to slow down for them when they came after us on our Upper Parkway runs to try and make it sporting.
the dumb-*** that converted it probably didn't increase the compression of the engine when they converted to propane. wonder if a turbo would eliminate the need to replace pistons with higher compression ones.
For diesels on veg-oil ... The old indirect-injection engines seem okay with it (VW pre-TDI, Ford pre-Powerstroke, GM 6.2-6.5 pre-Duramax, Mercedes pre-CDI). The direct-injection engines prior to 2007 tolerate veg-oil for a while if the operator is extremely diligent, but injector nozzles eventually clog and piston rings eventually stick - the latter problem generally doing enough damage that the engine is not worth repairing. Forget about using veg-oil on anything that has a DPF (2007 model year and later). All veg-oil systems in our climate have to be two-tank systems - one tank for starting and stopping the engine on normal diesel fuel and the other tank for the veg-oil. The driver *must* purge the veg-oil out of the system with diesel for a minute before stopping the engine and after starting, must not switch to veg-oil until it is up to temperature. The fuel *must* be kept clean and free of particles, water, and other contaminants. Most of these systems are more or less home-grown and are a rats nest of hoses and wiring and are prone to leaks - and veg-oil that leaks and goes rancid, stinks to high heaven. General mechanics have been known to refuse to work on veg-oil converted vehicles. Can't say I blame them.
If you have access to veg-oil, chemically converting it to biodiesel (using methanol and lye) is more friendly to the vehicle. Requires no modifications to the vehicle and no special actions on the part of the driver. Pre-2007 diesels will generally run on straight biodiesel without modification as long as the temperature is above freezing (biodiesel gels up at a much higher temperature than winterized diesel fuel). The Volkswagen common-rail TDI (with DPF) does not like biodiesel. It will not regenerate the DPF properly, therefore the DPF will clog. Expensive. Other common-rail diesels with DPF use comparable technology and most likely have the same issue. A 20% blend of biodiesel and 80% standard diesel fuel seems OK.
Fuel quality is extremely important. Particles, water, or leftover alcohol from the biodiesel conversion process are death to the injectors and pump.
If you have access to veg-oil, chemically converting it to biodiesel (using methanol and lye) is more friendly to the vehicle. Requires no modifications to the vehicle and no special actions on the part of the driver. Pre-2007 diesels will generally run on straight biodiesel without modification as long as the temperature is above freezing (biodiesel gels up at a much higher temperature than winterized diesel fuel). The Volkswagen common-rail TDI (with DPF) does not like biodiesel. It will not regenerate the DPF properly, therefore the DPF will clog. Expensive. Other common-rail diesels with DPF use comparable technology and most likely have the same issue. A 20% blend of biodiesel and 80% standard diesel fuel seems OK.
Fuel quality is extremely important. Particles, water, or leftover alcohol from the biodiesel conversion process are death to the injectors and pump.
its a 2000 6.2L turbo
don't really care about the truck if it breaks it already has 380,000k. if i'm driving 1000 k plus a week and i have a spare truck supplied to me for back up who cares if it breaks down.
I was looking at the centrifuges but they are pricey for cleaning oil. want to stay away from bio diesel because of the extra work required in making it.
don't really care about the truck if it breaks it already has 380,000k. if i'm driving 1000 k plus a week and i have a spare truck supplied to me for back up who cares if it breaks down.
I was looking at the centrifuges but they are pricey for cleaning oil. want to stay away from bio diesel because of the extra work required in making it.
If it's a 2000 then it's a 6.5L Turbo diesel. These are very similar but use an electronically controlled injection pump. If your going the veg oil route make sure it is very clean and totally water free. The optical fuel sensor in the pumps are very prone to damage from water or bad fuel.
Other then that, should run like a champ.
even if i filter down to 5 microns there will still be water in the fuel. need to find an economical centrifuge.
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Or let gravity do its work. You let the oil settle long enough and it will float on top of the water
franktomas
Member
So I ran through quite a few tanks I'm doing 100 k on 16liters of propane @.49cents a liter
I really like the system and my running costs have been cut in half
I really like the system and my running costs have been cut in half
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