Keyless Ignition Products/Recommendations

Everyone I saw with a toggle for race ignoition this yr had it fail at one point or another...some of them even buggered up mid race.

Safe bet is shielded spade connectors....plug it in = power..... unplug it = power off.
 
BE CAREFUL

A lot of newer bikes have some trickery involved in the ignition circuit as an anti-hot-wiring measure. I am not sure if that late model R6 that the original poster has, is equipped with an immobilizer. Often these systems are not fully documented, or not even documented at all, in the service manual - in order to make it more difficult for thieves to steal the bike. I know that on one bike-specific internet forum that I am on, discussion about how to circumvent the factory ignition switch is verboten, too.

The factory keyed ignition switch is reliable ... just safety wire the key to the bike with enough slack so it can reach what it needs to.

Same goes for gas caps; those screw-on caps often leak, and I can open my keyed OEM cap quicker than anyone can unscrew their aftermarket screw-on cap ...
 
I am one of those riders Brian speaks of, who uses stock gascap and key, on a length of racewire safety-pinned to a drilled bolt on my steering damper bracket. I learned the hard way that some aftermarket keyless gascaps leak, when my racebike burned up after a very minor lowside.
 
Thanks Brian.... I wouldn't be playing with the modern R6 that I have, but the bike I was going to put it on was the 1999 CBR F4.

I agree with the screw on caps, I'm hesitant to buy another... I only picked one up because the F4's gas cap was jimmy'd to open with only a flat screwdriver, and one day it decided not to take anymore abuse, so I had no choice but to swap it out mid-track weekend.
 
OK, the F4 will not have an immobilizer, but the ignition switch might not be as simple as it looks. (Anti hot wiring) I do not know the details of that one ...
 
If there is an "Inmobilizer" it is just usually a line that runs to the control module( not usually shown in the schematic) with a resistor in the ignition to supply less than the 12-14 volts that the bike usually supplies. Just measure the resistance through the keyed switch, add the required resister in line and yer good to go.
 
Immobilizer and anti hot wiring are just fancy words for a $1 resistor/diode in %90 of modern sport bikes....Yup thats it!

If you mention what bike your trying to do this on I might have the info for you....Very simple a trip to radio shack and about $5 in parts (resistor, zener diode, toggle switch) and a little soldering and your bike has a toggle ignition switch...

As for the gas caps leaking I have a $5 solution for almost any screw on gas cap that leaks...Again let me know what brand cap you have and I can tell you a simple solution to stop it from leaking......Again 90% of those caps leak simply because they have no valve on the breather port.....


Here you can see that it is simply a $1 resistor in most modern sport bike ignitions that prevents hot wiring.....All you need is the correct resistance added to your toogle switch wiring
images
 
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For your Honda

You will need the following
(1)5.1 zener diode
(1)1 watt 1k ohm 5% resistor
(1)Toggle switch
f4i7.jpg

f4i1.jpg


*** make sure the markings on the diode and resistor are facing the right way, they are directional and wont work if placed backwards***

Picture kinda sucks PM if you have questions
 
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What is your solution for no vlalve on the breather port. I think that is the situation with my Lightech on a Triumph. Broke the hinge on my OEM so had to replace, but do notice some fuel leaking around the rubber seat.
 
Oxmach said:
What is your solution for no vlalve on the breather port. I think that is the situation with my Lightech on a Triumph. Broke the hinge on my OEM so had to replace, but do notice some fuel leaking around the rubber seat.
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2 solutions, I can add a 1 way valve, but this is not an instant thing, a tiny amount will still spill out before the valve closes blocking the flow....

Or I add a 3mm barbed fitting, and run a small hose to the overflow hole in the top of your tank under the gas cap....That way any fuel that comes out of the breather runs through your gas tank, and out the overflow hose that normally is routed to the bottom of your bike somewhere...

I also have a Lightech cap also, and any wheelie or stoppie would cause fuel to spill on my balls.....I added the 3mm barbed fitting and hose and have not had fire balls since...

This cap came with this setup already and never leaked, so I found the fittings bought a bunch of them and I now tap and add them into every screw on or 1/4 turn gas cap I buy...
IMG_0487.jpg
 
justan FYI: Honda seems to have an issue with their older ignition switches, that $1 - one way diode (zener diode) will fix the issue. If your honda has no spark but everything else, 99.9999% chance that its this diode which is the issue...
 
Oxmach said:
Cool...thanks for the picutres as well. I'll have closer look at mine now.
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Which style Lightech do you have? Mine is the one with the button sticking out the middle that you press in and turn to open....It only has a small 1/16 hole for a breather, totally open at all times no valve.....
 
My Attack triple clamps have no provision to mount the ignition switch so i made my own keyless system and used the kill swtich as the master on/off.
 
caboose483 said:
My Attack triple clamps have no provision to mount the ignition switch so i made my own keyless system and used the kill swtich as the master on/off.
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Kawis are dead simple, you can even just pop the actual switch out of the bottom of the ignition lock and use that as your switch wihtout modding anything...2 safety torx screws hold it into the bottom of the ign lock housing...
 
hi i have a problem with mi immobilizer in mi yamaha r6 2004 and i wont to disconnect it permanently can you help me guys?
 
brian32 said:
hi i have a problem with mi immobilizer in mi yamaha r6 2004 and i wont to disconnect it permanently can you help me guys?
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There will be no discussion here, of how to help thieves start a stolen bike.

You need to bring the bike and key (and proof of ownership) to a Yamaha dealer.
 
Brian P said:
There will be no discussion here, of how to help thieves start a stolen bike.
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Brian: I have a lot of people come to me with a similar request, if the first words out of their mouth are "can you disable my immobilizer" I usually just don't contact them back. If it's something like "when I bought the bike it only came with one black key and I couldn't get copies made cause I didn't have the red key and now I lost my one and only black key" I feel sorry for them having to fork out $2800 to Yamaha for a replacement ignition, ECU, gas cap, trunk lock and three new keys so I usually help them out.

What precautions could I take to make sure I'm not helping out bike thieves, just request to see the ownership and/or their license and make sure it matches?
 
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