K7 600 is sick :( | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

K7 600 is sick :(

checking the stator cold won't really help you because the problem tends to arise when the bike is at running temps for a while, the coils heat up and expand/break plus you just have to look at it to see if they are burnt/black spots.
 
itinkle said:
I just bought the battery for SON this year :( when I went to take the battery out, it was umcomfortably hot. I've never taken one out after riding so I don't know how hot they get, but I suspect it is the source of all the heat escaping from underneath me. I've heard of potential rectifier/regulator problems with my bike. Any way for me to fix that on my own or get a buddy to help or do I need to take this somewhere to get fixed?
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rectifier cooking the battery. replace regulator, replace battery, you should be fine after.
rotten eggs = battery acid boiling
the buzz sound during attempted start = battery does not have enough amps to turn the engine over, so it will make this kkkkkkkhhhhhhhhhhhhrrrrrrrrrrrrrr sound...

Also... this: http://blog.motorcycle.com/2016/01/...68344-motorcycles-for-battery-charging-issue/
And... this: http://www.asphaltandrubber.com/recall/suzuki-recalls-70000-motorcycles-faulty-rectifier/

Also, troubleshooting steps here to see if regulator is shot:
helloworld said:
If thats how your battery looks, after you fix the starting issue, I would suggest to check your charging circuit with voltmeter:

1. start the bike (boost it, get new battery, whatever...)
2. put volmeter to the battery, note the voltage
3. rev the bike up, should be about 14.0... 15.0 volts
4. if voltage is over or more like 15.5+ volts, you are cooking your battery and need to replace voltage regulator
5. if voltage drops below 12.5, your alternator is shot and not charging.
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Had a similar problem on my K7 750 but I smelled burning electrical once and brought the bike straight home and parked it. The rectifier was starting to burn out but luckily I caught it before it damaged anything else. Who thought it would be a good idea to put an electrical part between a radiator with boiling hot coolant and an exhaust manifold??

if you haven't figured this out yet and want some advice or help, send me a PM.

i ordered the MOSFET unit from a guy that had it pre wired for the bike and made a relocation bracket to put it on the side of the engine where it gets lots of airflow.


some pics here...
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/80-06-07-gsx-r600-750/339933-mofset-pics.html
 
Relocation is key. I've had to replace the R/R and the stator on my 750 when I had it. Went with a Mosfet unit. A little pricey but it is very well built and they come with a warranty if I remember correctly. If you want to be cheap about it, PM me. I have a working OE R/R for cheap.
 
itinkle said:
I will order the part tomorrow. For now youtube is my friend. Just having trouble getting the airbox thing off. There are 2 screws you gotta go through the frame to loosen. Video says a flexible screw driver which neither canadian tire nor home depot have even heard of. Any suggestions on this one? The other one is a stupid butterfly clip. Its on backwords with no room to work as its pinned backwards. Who puts this together and thinks "ya this makes sense". The hole in the frame for one screw was a cool one too. Who approved the design where there is 1 hole in the middle of the frame to get to one screw, once in a blue moon?

any way to check for sure that it truly is the r/r and/or stator?
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Well when you regularly work on these bikes the airbox comes off VERY frequently. I don't own a "flexible screwdriver". They assemble these bikes with the same tools you can buy at Canadian Tire. Maybe try a small ratcheting tool that holds a screwdriver bit? Hard to understand how it's such an issue as that's how the bike was put together from the factory. What's a butterfly clip?
 
Another reason I have a voltmeter installed on my bike
 
Dfinally got time to work on the bike. The butterfly clip holds a hose in place, you gotta pinch it to move and mine was on backwards from factory.
i have tried all my tools to get the screw loose on the air box, no dice. Its not as simple as stick the screw driver through a hole. The hold doesn't line up at all! I have long tools, short, thin, thick, nothing gets me to the angle I need, although once I get the angle, its just begging to strip the screw.

i can't check my FI light either. When I turn my key now to on, there is a consistent clicking happening at the front of the bike. The whole dash is constantly flashing quckly at me. The check light stays on with the red light, but won't show me FI or the code even when I have my paper clip in. So besides not being able to access my r/r at the moment, do you think that could be affecting this clicking thing.

i called SON and they can't really tell me much, they just want me to bring it in.
 
Ialso remember that randomly the bike when I shut it off would make a super high pitched sound after turning the bike off. This accompanied the seat being extremely hot and smelling of something foul. I don't race my bike or rev high or anything, just an ordinary rider.
 
Did you or previous owner do aftermarket exhaust with cat removed and the rest of the work associated with it. This work requires some wires cut in the harness.
 
The sound and smell is coming from the battery.

The battery and the regulator / rectifier need to be replaced.
 
22 days later, do you still think the professionals are a rip off?
 
itinkle said:
Ialso remember that randomly the bike when I shut it off would make a super high pitched sound after turning the bike off. This accompanied the seat being extremely hot and smelling of something foul. I don't race my bike or rev high or anything, just an ordinary rider.
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Your battery is dead. People have already told you what is wrong, your regulator is bad and overcharged the battery. You dont need a "flexible screw driver" (which is a screw driver or socket extension with a flexible arm on it, you can get them at home depot, i saw one there last week), just get a long one and send it down the hole. The "butterfly" clip you can just pull on, its soft metal and it will unfold, not sure how it can be on backwards.

You need to replace the R/R. You need to replace your battery. The only thing you can do in the meantime is put in a new battery that has a charge and turn the key to check the lights if you want to, its not going to help you fix the bike but its something you can do if you want to. If you run the bike with a new battery, you will just destroy the new battery too.
 
matthew said:
The screwdrivers should be JIS and not Phillips.
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I should get some of those when they go on sale at CT or PA.
Though, I don't have issues stripping screws, just use the proper driver and know how to apply force while you start the initial turn instead of jamming it in there and twisting.
 
-D- said:
I should get some of those when they go on sale at CT or PA.
Though, I don't have issues stripping screws, just use the proper driver and know how to apply force while you start the initial turn instead of jamming it in there and twisting.
Click to expand...

Canadian Tire and Princess Auto do not carry JIS.
 
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